Mein Kampf wedding casket

[Steve T]

Another offered in Latvia last year:

[Bob Hritz]

When I can even see the mitred corners, of the cover, I am glad I don't own one. Any craftsman, worth his sawdust, can make a perfect mitred corner that is nearly invisible.

They would be nice for a couple hundred dollars, to keep your watch, wallet and jewelry, but for anything more NO. I believe they originated from a small island off the coat of Great Britian: Fantasy Island.

Bob Hritz

[Capt. R]

Bob, what are the basis of your conclusions or is it just a gut feeling? Do you think that they were used at all during ww2 and then maybe copied later on to some extent or just outright fantasy pieces?

[Matthäus Klein]

compared to other SS reproductions & high quality museum copies of original SS that are mass produced (e.g. EK1s, SS pins, TKs, etc).. these MK caskets are by far fewer in number than believed to exist .. unlike most SS items, one of these caskets in hand is worth 2 in the bush

[Matthäus Klein]

...Merdock had one for sale a while back.. not sure if he ever sold his

[Steve T]

When I can even see the mitred corners, of the cover, I am glad I don't own one. Any craftsman, worth his sawdust, can make a perfect mitred corner that is nearly invisible.

They would be nice for a couple hundred dollars, to keep your watch, wallet and jewelry, but for anything more NO. I believe they originated from a small island off the coat of Great Britian: Fantasy Island.

Bob Hritz

Here's a little box from '43, no relationship to the MK box apart from being wood, and a box, but it is fairly well made. Lid made in four pieces, perfectly mitred corners.

I have no idea on whether the MK boxes are genuine or not but always thought for something that has such a special significance the carving is rather mediocre.

Second picture - I brushed off the dust for this one, bit dusty on the first shot.

[james m]

I have been a woodworker most of my adult life and have cut hundreds of mitres during this time. Any good woodworker can and does cut perfect examples. However; Time,and more importantely environmental conditions can raise hell with items made from wood. I discovered that when we moved from the Mid West to very dry Arizona several years ago. Items of furniture I'd built in the Mid West suddenly began to warp.
What I'm trying to point out here is you can't always judge initial workmanship many years later as in all probability the conditions the item existed in for those years have been variable or unknown. Also keep in mind that wood shrinks across the grain over time.
Take a look sideways at some of your political dagger grips as they sometimes are visibly twisted. I coined the term "Grip Torque" to describe this condition years ago. Due to the low humidity in the South West we collectors here have to be extra vigilent in keeping wooden items well protected with wax.
Jim

[Steve T]

I have been a woodworker most of my adult life and have cut hundreds of mitres during this time. Any good woodworker can and does cut perfect examples. However; Time,and more importantely environmental conditions can raise hell with items made from wood. I discovered that were we moved from the Mid West to very dry Arizona several years ago. Items of furniture I'd built suddenly began to warp.
What I'm trying to point out here is you can always judge initial workmanship many years later as in all probability the conditions the item existed in for those years is unknown.
Take a look sideways at some of your political dagger grips as they sometimes are visibly twisted. I coined the term "Grip Torque" to describe this condition years ago. Due to the low humidity in the South West we collectors here have to be extra vigilent in keeping wooden items well protected with wax.
Jim

That's certainly true as well, I have plenty of bread plates for example, many are warped and out of true.

[maestro]

Steve, what do you like to use yourself to keep the wooden plates looking nice & healthy without damaging it..

i've read here on WAF, not to use Renaissance wax, as its a sealant & doesn't allow the wood to breath..

[Capt. R]

ss wedding photo

ss man leaving the altar carrying MK in what looks like a domed case of some kind? Anyone care to speculate if that is a book or a case for a book? The beveled edges remind me of the top of the cask.

[Capt. R]

another shot
please feel free to comment...

[Thorsten B.]

The lower side is oval as spines of books are while the upper side is straight.

For me it´s a book, not any type of casket.

Due to the fact that the bride is wearing a cross I assume it was a marriage of catholic ordinance - maybe you know more about the background.

Anyway: thank you for this interesting contribution.

[Steve T]

Steve, what do you like to use yourself to keep the wooden plates looking nice & healthy without damaging it..

i've read here on WAF, not to use Renaissance wax, as its a sealant & doesn't allow the wood to breath..

For a plate in good shape that doesn't need to be re-finished I probably clean it if dirty or has old dirty wax on it. I'd use a solution of 1 part linseed oil and 4 parts white spirit to do this. Its a traditional wood 'reviver' that will clean off old wax and nourish the wood a little too. It cleans but does not aggressively clean to a point where it destroys any patina. The white spirit will eventually evaporate off and the linseed oil feeds the wood. Even if the wood has a some shellac finish it will do not harm.

After the clean I'd leave it a week then just treat it like any fine furniture and give it a wax coat with a fine furniture wax. I use Fiddes Supreme wax, its soft and covers intricate carved parts easily. I apply this with a soft bristle brush and polish it with a clean brush. Using the brush as opposed to a cloth allows you to get inbetween the carved parts,like between carved letters and polish without leaving wax in the cracks/crevices etc.

Regarding Renaissance wax. Any wax will create a barrier layer but renaissance is not my choice for carved pieces as it dries quite hard and takes a lot more effort to polish it off compared to a fine furniture wax, more difficult for carved areas. You don't want wax left or to be rubbing too hard on the piece anyway. A fine quality natural beeswax polish will nourish the wood as well as protect it.

[Matthäus Klein]

For a plate in good shape that doesn't need to be re-finished I probably clean it if dirty or has old dirty wax on it. I'd use a solution of 1 part linseed oil and 4 parts white spirit to do this. Its a traditional wood 'reviver' that will clean off old wax and nourish the wood a little too. It cleans but does not aggressively clean to a point where it destroys any patina. The white spirit will eventually evaporate off and the linseed oil feeds the wood. Even if the wood has a some shellac finish it will do not harm.

After the clean I'd leave it a week then just treat it like any fine furniture and give it a wax coat with a fine furniture wax. I use Fiddes Supreme wax, its soft and covers intricate carved parts easily. I apply this with a soft bristle brush and polish it with a clean brush. Using the brush as opposed to a cloth allows you to get inbetween the carved parts,like between carved letters and polish without leaving wax in the cracks/crevices etc.

Regarding Renaissance wax. Any wax will create a barrier layer but renaissance is not my choice for carved pieces as it dries quite hard and takes a lot more effort to polish it off compared to a fine furniture wax, more difficult for carved areas. You don't want wax left or to be rubbing too hard on the piece anyway. A fine quality natural beeswax polish will nourish the wood as well as protect it.

Bravo Steve.
thank you for sharing.

[Matthäus Klein]

another shot
please feel free to comment...

looks like a MK box to me