Himmler SS Dagger

[BrianK]

Dagger cleaning

This is very interesting. Which dealer offers cleaning service? IOW who can I send an expensive dagger to that I don't want to mess up cleaning myself? Don't have such a dagger now - just a question for the future.

[Ed Sunday]

This is very interesting. Which dealer offers cleaning service? IOW who can I send an expensive dagger to that I don't want to mess up cleaning myself? Don't have such a dagger now - just a question for the future.

Your'e correct in thinking this way especially if you don't trust your ability to do it right.
Nothing wrong with rethinking on a piece that may require special attention IMO.

[Frogprince]

Because steels and aluminum oxide batches can vary these are approximate values - knife steels are at a 5.5 Mohs, file steel (which is hardened) 6.5 Mohs, with aluminum oxide at 9 Mohs being used commercially as an industrial abrasive. Likewise aged oils and grease that have hardened can vary, and I had a Colt AR with an absolutely frozen bolt carrier locked into the upper receiver by grease that ordinary milder solvents could not free even after a long soaking. But acetone with a little work made it happen - personally starting with turpentine/paint thinner, lacquer thinner, acetone and one other industrial grade solvent in that order if the previous one doesn't work. FP

[nickn]

Sorry Fred I thought alumina was used in metal polishes and aluminium in abrasive papers and pastes

[Ed Sunday]

Because steels and aluminum oxide batches can vary these are approximate values - knife steels are at a 5.5 Mohs, file steel (which is hardened) 6.5 Mohs, with aluminum oxide at 9 Mohs being used commercially as an industrial abrasive. Likewise aged oils and grease that have hardened can vary, and I had a Colt AR with an absolutely frozen bolt carrier locked into the upper receiver by grease that ordinary milder solvents could not free even after a long soaking. But acetone with a little work made it happen - personally starting with turpentine/paint thinner, lacquer thinner, acetone and one other industrial grade solvent in that order if the previous one doesn't work. FP

Naptha would have made it happen sooner ,I guarantee it !!

[Ed Sunday]

Sorry Fred I thought alumina was used in metal polishes and aluminium in abrasive papers and pastes

Not Alumina in metal polishes ...............but Ammonium compound is contained in these metal polishes which is what makes them have a chemical cleaning action when applied.

[Frogprince]

Not Alumina in metal polishes ...............but Ammonium compound is contained in these metal polishes which is what makes them have a chemical cleaning action when applied.

The U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration - Material Safety Data Sheet for Simichrome says that it has among some other things like Kerosene and a White Spirit (paint thinner):

13 % Ammonium Oleate

27 % Aluminum Oxide

With traces of a few other things, and the aluminum oxide looking like it's the largest single component of the metal polish. FP

[Ed Sunday]

The U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration - Material Safety Data Sheet for Simichrome says that it has among some other things like Kerosene and a White Spirit (paint thinner):

13 % Ammonium Oleate

27 % Aluminum Oxide

With traces of a few other things, and the aluminum oxide looking like it's the largest single component of the metal polish. FP

Well that explains why it's the prefered hand polish for metals such as Gold , Silver and other precious metals...........so dagger blades , Have no fear

[Tiger 1]

Well that explains why it's the prefered hand polish for metals such as Gold , Silver and other precious metals...........so dagger blades , Have no fear

Ed....
When I was in the art glass business we used aluminum oxides of various grits to etch and carve glass. Aluminum oxides are much harder than plain aluminum.
Simi-chrome will devestate the darking in the etched mottos in the proverbial blink of an eye if you use too much pressure. Too much pressure is relative as once the frost is gone you will understand forever what too much pressuse is.

Some words of caution regarding 'cleaning' valuable collectable antiques....

If you have never done it and more importantly if you do not have previous experience, do not think you will learn and be sucessful on a rare and valuable piece.
It will most likely be an expensive education.

Tony

P.S. Renwax is an excellent product as a microcrystalline WAX. It should properly be used as a preservative AFTER the object has been properly cleaned before hand. If you use renwax before cleaning it is like waxing your car before washing it. Just doesn't make sense.

[Ed Sunday]

Ed....
When I was in the art glass business we used aluminum oxides of various grits to etch and carve glass. Aluminum oxides are much harder than plain aluminum.
Simi-chrome will devestate the darking in the etched mottos in the proverbial blink of an eye if you use too much pressure. Too much pressure is relative as once the frost is gone you will understand forever what too much pressuse is.

Some words of caution regarding 'cleaning' valuable collectable antiques....

If you have never done it and more importantly if you do not have previous experience, do not think you will learn and be sucessful on a rare and valuable piece.
It will most likely be an expensive education.

Tony

P.S. Renwax is an excellent product as a microcrystalline WAX. It should properly be used as a preservative AFTER the object has been properly cleaned before hand. If you use renwax before cleaning it is like waxing your car before washing it. Just doesn't make sense.

When it comes to useing Simichrome as with any polish containing cleaning agents a very small amount is all that is needed. I find most people who use this especiailly 99 % of the people on these forms they are HEAVY Handed !! I was raised in the Antique bus. along with Watches and fine jewelry so I do get it . It still beats most anything out there.

[james m]

Well we're at it does anyone know the chemical makeup of Flitz? From my experience it not nearly as harsh as Simichrome and it has been my choice for years in the firearms maintenance area. If used carefully it will pull rust out of bluing without damaging the bluing itself.
Napha Ed! I'll have to give that a try.
I wish I'd known about that when a retired FBI Agent asked me to "fix "his S&W snubbie. It was frozen up to the extent that I had to use a rubber mallet to swing the cylinder out far enough to unload it. I never did figure out what got into this revolver but it almost seemed like it was glued together.
Jim

[Ryan Joyce]

I remember this dagger, I was thinking of buying it some years ago! The only reason I didn't at the time was someone had put the blade on a buffing wheel. I'll attach some of the photos I took at the time. Can you save a blade once someone has done this?

[Ryan Joyce]

Here are some of the blade, sorry about the low res.

[Serge M.]

I remember this dagger, I was thinking of buying it some years ago! The only reason I didn't at the time was someone had put the blade on a buffing wheel. I'll attach some of the photos I took at the time. Can you save a blade once someone has done this?

No. Once buffed, IMO, the blade is shot. No amount of 'juicing' will restore it.
Also it seems with these before photos, the grip has been restored and re-stained. They let the stain creep onto the grip eagles wreath.
At this stage it's possible the scabbard has also been worked.

Thank You for your pictorial contribution on this dagger.


-wagner-