A visit to Stalingrad

[Felix]

Travelling 2009 – a visit to Stalingrad
I did a three week tour in Russia in the summer of 2009 that included Moscow and Volgograd (Stalingrad). I wish to share my experiences and a few photos.

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I went with a friend from Scotland who has been in Russia many times, and lived there for periods, and we do share a certain fascination for travelling in the FSU countries. Previously I have been to Russia 7 times on work trips (I have in total been around 30 times in FSU up until 2009 apart from my trips to Russia). I have got a bit of feel for the country and I do speak as much russian language that I usually can manage on my own. As my friend told me, when you really start to think that you know Russia, you discover how much you dont know and how complex it all is. That is why my report only should be seen as a mere scratch on the surface, but yet, at least a little bit of insight, and what you will see during a non pre-arranged tour.

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For travelling in real Russia, meaning outside of the city centers of Moscow or St. Petersburg it adds great value to know passable russian. To know Da, Njet and spasiba is not enough. Normal and older people in Russia usually speaks very bad english or most commonly, not at all. Some younger and educated persons sometimes knows a bit of english or even excellent english. Therefore make sure to at least know a few usable words and phrases before going to Russia, unless you have a guide, or is a hard core traveller, manage-your-self, with all the cons and pros. And get the Lonely Planet guide!
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Before going to Russia one must obtain a visa. That can be a bit of a cost and problem depending on what country you are from. About the visa regulations Russia tends to become more and more strict, almost going back to Soviet style. It is likley a reflection of that Russia walks further and further away from what can be called a democracy. Personally I wouldnt count Russia as a democratic country – I would call it semi democratic facade. To get a tourist visa it is advisable to contact any of the agencies that specialises in arranging visa with a tourist invitation and the visa itself. It is worth the extra cost. I come from Sweden and the Russian embassy in Stockholm is one of the hardest places in the world to get a ”free – no fixed stay” tourist visa. The rumor says that the Russian embassador in Stockholm has got a secret mission to stop spys. Strange indeed. So, they wont issue me a visa in Stockholm unless I have a prepayed hotel package. As I stay with friends in Moscow I dont want that very costly option (there are few affordable accomodation options that normal income guys could afford in Moscow that also has a decent standard) and want freedom to travel around and find a hotel where I want. What do I do? I applied for a Visa in the Russian embassy in London which worked fine but set me back a 160 Euros in total. You have to bypass the system sometimes to get going.
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One has to be practic and street wise as well – especially in Moscow centre. The corrupt police is a major problem and the way they herass foreigners. Herassments has become less problematic in recent years but is still a problem. A recommendation is to avaoid any contact with the police in Russia unless it is necessary – that means if you must get a document or if you have been exposed to a crime. What they do is that they will stop any foreign looking person, and believe me you will stick out like a sore thumb amongst russian people, and hence easily spotted. If you have a dark skin, expect more herassments as they are rather racistic. I dont make jokes about this as I saw several asian looking guys gettings stopped. That actually saved me and my friend one time as they found a poor dark central asian guy that they instantly stopped. Be especially careful in Moscow Metro. The police will ask for your documents, and of course always find a problem with your visa or passport in order to get a bribe. For us westerners this is a strange situation as we usually can trust the police in our countries. Never fall for their scams as there usually are no problems at all with your visa and registration (as long as you have done the registraion in the hotell where you stay or at your private accomodation – Be sure to make the registration or you are a smoked fish if caught! – officially you must register within 3 days of arrival in any new city – which allows you to travell around quite a bit without registration). Be polite but firm to the Russian police and never speak in russian with them. Always use correct english as they usually have a low level of knowledge, and sometimes they will just give up because they cant get their point across that they want a bribe. If they do speak english, or if very persistant and threatening you with going to the police station, you must start to complain about police herassments. Ask him in a calm but firm way to write down his name and unit number on a piece of paper and tell him that you will report him to his boss for herassments and that you will also leave a report with your embassy. Be persistant, as they dont want to be reported to their bosses as corruption is not sanctioned at higher lever (though in quiet accepted as it is common) and he will let you go.
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Russia has got a reputation for corruption and maffia and heavy on the crimes. There is a reason for those rumours. In the practically lawless country of Russia in the 1990’s the goverment was very weak and the mob ruled and street crimes were common. One could see documentaries about Russia in the 90’s where the morgues were filled with stacked corpses after the latest shoot outs between different maffias. Hookers where everyhere and would approach you as soon as they smelled dollars. The scene has changed a bit. It is farly safe to travel around in Russia and some FSU countries nowadays if you are a bit street wise and behave smart. I have been in Russia and several other FSU countries and only been exposed to a crime once. The same could have happened to me in any western country. No reason to be alarmed. Follow a few rules though: Never trust a stranger – stick to the people you know – People that all of a sudden want to be your friend might have reasons for that – Be especially careful with men (physically stronger) but also with girls – That doesnt mean to be scared or phobic, but to use your brain – still be friendly and open (especially to nice girls ). Never get drunk in bars and then try to walk back home. Be moderate with alcohol especially in places or areas that you dont know well. Take a taxi to the restaurant or night club where you want to go during the dark hours, unless youre in the city centre and knows your way. Ask trustworthy people (like the hotell staff – or friends that you know well) where the good places are and which ones to avoid, or do a google search. Dont jump into that taxi after a number of vodkas with a strange girl going somewhere – be sure to bring her back to your place. (going to a hotel you will face the hotel security and they often want money if you bring a girl – all part of the system – or you must get her rigistred in a ”serious” hotel which will also cost money provided she has her passport with her) Did I mention to aviod the cops? Be careful with scamming taxi drivers… negotiate the price before… Again ask the hotel staff what a normal taxi should cost and you’ll get a ball park figure. If you flirt up a girl in a bar – and her Russian gorilla boyfriend approaches you, just drop it, and excuse and leave. Carry your passport with you, or rather a xerox copy of it. As I do myself, play it a bit more safe than in your own country, and you will most likley be fine. I feel more secure in some of these ”dangerous” towns than I do in my own city sometimes.
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People asks me why I go there. I answer - well what could beat poor living conditions, cheap vodka, crappy service, corrupt police and beautiful women? Hell, I wouldnt want to go to Mallorca and get fried on the beach…. About russian women I could write a few stories, but I will keep to the subject. If you ever get invited to a Russian home, you will be treated with a big heart and generosity. They will take very good care of you. A Russian classic is to have a shashlik at a dachia. That is barbeque in a country cottage. It is a very nice experience were food is plenty and the vodkas constantly flow and a very friendly atmosphere. When I meet people like this it is hard to imagine how this country could have had such a brutal history.
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Photo: Lubjanka head-quarters of the KGB. KGB directors from Beriya to Andropov had their office on the third floor of the building. The center of the square was dominated by a statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky, founder of the first communist secret police, the Cheka. Like many others, the statue was removed in August 1991. This building was quite busy in the cold war era, and still is because it now hosts the Russian secret service, the FSB. In this bulding quite a few drops of blood has been spilled… To many russians Lubjanka is the same as suppression in the Soviet era - once you got in – there was a slim chance to get out alive.
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I saw a documentary some years ago with an ex KGB officer, now old and retired, who stood outside of Lubjanka with tears in his eyes remembering the good old days. There were cells with rubberised walls – to make it easy to hose off the blood with water. It is just amazing, that Russia really doesnt want to deal with its bloody past. They actually did in the 90’s but in recent years they divert from the line of truth seeking and now tries to ”polish” their gruesome histrory back into glory or at least acceptance and denial of crimes. (quite many russians lives in denial about this - if you have lived in a lie all your life it is more convenient to continue – especially as a popular man as Putin has restored a few things) Lubjanka is a fascinating building to see, but yet scary, and the old KGB is not dead, it is just transformed and renamed to FSB. What else could it be with an ex KGB high ranking officer running the country, Putin?<O</O

[Felix]

Moscow street scene (The Kreml can be seen in the distance).

Moscow is indeed a world city and there are many interesting things to see, and impressive buildings. There are many nice cultural influences in Russia as well. Most of them are pre communist – of course. One is the Banja (or Sauna) which is a wet and very hot form of a sauna. I went to the Sandonovskye banja in the centre of Moscow. What a treat! The entrance fee was almost 50 Euros in 2009 which is a fortune and that most normal russian people cant afford. This is not a sauna where you go for hookers but rather a luxury treat and tradition and a place where business men meet, and friends, to relax and treat the body. It took a pinch in my wallet but a must if you fancy to dig in to old style Russian traditions and enjoy a hot sauna. Once inside it was very quiet and service was excellent. Got a towel, slippers and a blanket to sit on. Inside it had the style of an old bathing house and the scent of different herbs was wonderful. A lot of the men comming there were regulars and they know the procedurs well. Look around and copy and learn and do not be afraid to ask as most will be very helpful. There is a sauna master who takes care of it all. He is like the russians you would imagine from films, like in Red Heat with Schwarzenegger. Big guy with broad shoulders and hard core. Not a guy to mess around with, but yet very polite and serious about his sauna. All the herbs they place in the corners and in the saunas themselves are enough to heal any infection it seems like. Smell is very nice. Once you go inside the sauna, expect it to be very hot. Start with the lower parts, or as you like. It is also tradition to get your skin gently whipped with branches of oak, with the leafes still attached. That feels good but is very hot. Almost a sado-masochistic thing as your buddy whipps you and then you swap. The sauna master comes in after a while and swings a towel like a helicopter above his head to get the air circulating inside. If you have not felt any heat yet, you will! It feels like your skin is on fire! The russians in the sauna goes slightly uhhh … but tries to keep calm, as they are used to it, but also because a russian man should be strong. When the sauna master is done he gets a small applause… After a hot sauna, you should jump in to a cold pool or tub – and you have Russian extreme When me and my mate from Scotland went out, we decided to have a cup of tea. We could observe russian men sitting and eating and drinking vodka and ordering in full bottles of Cognac in the dressing room. Our tea cups arrived with a discrete bill next to them. 7 Euros for a single cup of tea! F—king h-ll…. Moscow is certainly for the rich. I am glad I didnt have to pay for the multi hundred euro bills that some of the men got in there. They didnt seem to bother about the costs though…

[Felix]

Out side of the Kreml or the Kremlin<O</O

[Felix]

Drunken beggar – Today it is rather rare to see drunks and homeless people in the very centre of Moscow as the Goverments policy is to keep it clean. Of course prosperity has also bloomed in Russia and especially in Moscow, which is one of the most expensive cities in the world. It hosts, second to New york, the most USD billionares in the world. The middle class in Russia is also growing every year, though the bulk of the money is held by a tiny percentage of the population. Some of them are the Oligarks.<O</O

[Felix]

Tomb of the unknown soldier. Eternal flame for the fallen soldiers of the battle for Moscow in 1941 and it is guarded 24/7. Quite a few tourists around. The red walls of the Kreml is in the background.<O</O

[Felix]

Guard at duty (w SKS Simonov rifle)

[Felix]

The Red square – This is where all the famous May parades were held. The square is simply huge and an amazing sight. To the right is the Kreml and with the mausoleum of Lenin (Where Lenins embalmed body is kept – but closed the day I was there) and at the far back is the beautiful St Basils Cathedral in true russian style. To the left is the GUM store. In 2008 the first military parade with vehicles at the Red square were held since 1991. It was to celebrate the victory over nazi Germany. A new-old era is coming back to Russia. <O</O

[Felix]

St Basils Cathedral – simply amazing and beautiful. Which building could be more classic Russian?

[Felix]

Russian Parliament – Goverment. In 1991 Boris Yeltsin could be seen standing on a tank speaking during the August coup with the ”Russian White house” in the background. In 1993 the buliding was shot at by tanks after orders from Yeltsin. Big news in 1993. This event caused around 500 peoples death and around a 1000 injured.<O</O

[Felix]

One of the seven sisters in Moscow. These mega buldings were built after Stalins orders in the late 1940’s and early 1950’s to serve mainly official purposes and to be used as hotels. In the background can be seen some skyskrapers that depicts the new era of the prosperous Russia. For size comparison, the buildings of the seven sisters are a 150 to 200 meters high each.

[Felix]

Volgograds, or Stalingrads, waterfront. The river Volga in the background, and the east bank that is not very inhabitated – nearly all of the city is on the west bank of Volga. This is the bank where the German armed forces wanted to reach, but couldnt manage, and the bridge head from where the Soviet counter attacks were arranged.

The battle of Stalingrad began 17 July 1942. On August 23 the city suffered heavy air bombings by the Luftwaffe that reduced most of the city to ruins and rubble. By September, the fighting reached the city center. The fighting was very bitter and intense: the central station of the city passed from hand to hand 13 times, and one of the heights of the city – Mamayev Kurgan ,where now the statue of Mother Russia stands - was captured and recaptured 8 times. The Soviet soldiers recived a double daily ration of vodka due to the hard conditions and bitter fighting.

By the winter of 1942–43 the German armed forces controlled about 90% of the city, and the Soviets only held two narrow pockets in the city. On November 19 Soviet forces launched a massive attack against the German forces. This led to the eventual encirclement of the 6<SUP>th</SUP> German Army. The Luftwaffe, which had lost its superiority, tried in vain to supply the troops and evacuate the city. The old “Tante Ju” Ju 52’s was not at all up to the task. Görings promises to Hitler did not hold water. On January 31st 1943 the recently promoted Field Marshal Paulus surrendered, and on February 2, with the elimination of the last struggeling German troops, the battle of Stalingrad was over. Paulus was not considered a genious BTW.

Not going to elaborate this further because there are many in depth books about that, and probably many of the members here knows more. However as interested in WW2 and the fighting on the eastern front it has been a wish for many years to visit Stalingrad. A wish I had as a kid when I first read about the gigantic epic battles on the eastern front.

[Felix]

Taking a stroll from the hotel and north to see the Mamayev Kurgan, where the statue of Mother Russia stands tall and where the Soviet WW2 memorial is, one passes a few interesting sites on the way. A small square (Lenin square – Ploshad Lenina) with the Lenin statue still standing high and proud as in the old Soviet Union days. Around the square there are some communistic glorification arts. Amazing to see they still keeps the statues of Lenin – like nothing had happened since Soviet Union collapsed. The Lenin statue will stand there for many years to come, as even Stalin is brought back from the cold in todays Russia. There can be seen portraits of Stalin in some places in Russia today. They were not there a few years ago as Stalin was thought of as an “evil man” and was given the blame for all the suppression, terror and murdering in the first half of the Soviet Union era. Even the school books are rewritten today, to declare that Stalin was not such a bad man after all.

[Felix]

Lenin almost reaches the sky – the statue is huge.

[Felix]

Soviet art a la Soviet style

[Felix]

Fence around the square – every second meter there was a symbol (same as the medal of the patriotic war) in cast iron.