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    #16
    A difficult question to answer. Tom's price is fair and I have no interest in torpedoing the sale for him. That said, I - quite simply - would not buy the dagger in question. If I was going to buy an RZM dagger, it would have to me a mint example, preferably "bagged & tagged". Otherwise, I would buy an early, maker-marked piece.

    Now, to further qualify, you have stated that you are not a "dagger guy". That may well be the difference between us. Neither of my recommendations can be had for $450.00. If that's your dagger budget, the dagger in question is as good as any $450.00 dagger you'll likely find.

    How's that for muddying the water?

    Best,
    Skip

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      #17
      Indeed that is my budget. I actually understand where you are coming from.
      Thanks!

      Comment


        #18
        I agree with Stu's comments also, except that I could not recommend backing out of a deal already made.
        Also, I don't think it would do any service for guys to air their opinions on what we think the fair market value of the dagger is.
        Some may say they'd pay $300 max, some not even that, others may say they themselves would have paid what you paid - I doubt if any would say more though ,,, In todays market, average, flawed RZM SA's are not exactly flying out the door.
        As far as I can tell, it seems to be a done deal, so right now the fair market value is $450 + shipping.
        Last edited by BenR; 09-13-2009, 07:18 PM.

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          #19
          I had no intention of backing out! I posted it here to see if it had been toyed with it any way. It had not. I asked at the start for people not to say to save my money. They did, and now this thread has kind of evolved...

          I am sticking with this one, because I like it, the seller, and it fits my budget. If there are unknown problems with the dagger, besides what I know, please do post them. If not, please don't.

          Thanks for all the other help, with wax/polish, etc.

          Best wishes and have a nice day.

          Comment


            #20
            Sorry guys.. I know you were just trying to help. I apoligize for my remarks and I do appreciate you taking the time to post on my thread.

            Comment


              #21
              An old method to remove rust

              Try just rubbing a No.2 lead pencil back and forth over that rust and it will vanish right before your eyes. After you have done that and the rust and dark spots are gone or very minimal, then do a very light rubbing of Simichrome. Wipe it off thoroughly and then apply RenWax to the whole dagger, grip, fittings and all.

              Remember that with an RZM dagger, that is as good as it is ever going to look as the pot metal just corrodes over time. Keep it stored out of the scabbard to prevent runner marks and for display.

              Good Luck!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by kingtiger View Post
                Try just rubbing a No.2 lead pencil back and forth over that rust and it will vanish right before your eyes. After you have done that and the rust and dark spots are gone or very minimal, then do a very light rubbing of Simichrome. Wipe it off thoroughly and then apply RenWax to the whole dagger, grip, fittings and all.

                Remember that with an RZM dagger, that is as good as it is ever going to look as the pot metal just corrodes over time. Keep it stored out of the scabbard to prevent runner marks and for display.

                Good Luck!
                The Pencil idea sound interesting. Has anyone else ever tried this?

                Thanks Kingtiger.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Yes, I have many times. A #2 pencil will work on surface rust & it won't damage the dagger because the graphite is softer than the steel the dagger is made from.

                  If you use simichrome on the blade, make sure to avoid working it too hard & above all else, don't polish the motto. Also, try to work the rubbing in the direction of the crossgraining so as not remove any of it. With blade rubbing, less is more. When in doubt, don't. Words to live by as many of us can tell you stories of how we f'ed up nice daggers when we were inexperienced.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Billy G View Post
                    Yes, I have many times. A #2 pencil will work on surface rust & it won't damage the dagger because the graphite is softer than the steel the dagger is made from.

                    If you use simichrome on the blade, make sure to avoid working it too hard & above all else, don't polish the motto. Also, try to work the rubbing in the direction of the crossgraining so as not remove any of it. With blade rubbing, less is more. When in doubt, don't. Words to live by as many of us can tell you stories of how we f'ed up nice daggers when we were inexperienced.
                    Thanks Billy. I may skip the Simichrome/Renwax, just for fear of messing the blade. I will try this pencil idea when I get the dagger. Thanks for suggesting it.
                    Last edited by Skipper Greenwade; 10-01-2009, 02:10 PM.

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                      #25
                      Hi LandZack,

                      Just to clarify...Ren Wax is a micro-crystalline preservative wax and won't have any effect on the cross grain. It's not an abrasive polish such as Simichrome. It can be used after the pencil
                      Billy G is also correct in that less is best and it's very important to keep any polishing compounds (Simichrome or Pre-Lim) out of the motto.

                      Looking forward to the photos when you have the dagger in hand.

                      Regards,
                      Stu
                      Last edited by Skipper Greenwade; 10-01-2009, 02:14 PM.

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                        #26
                        I will keep you all posted. I am leaving for a week long trip tomarrow, so I will get the pics up once at home.

                        I will be on over vacation, talk to you soon.

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