SA on Estand

[LandZack2013]

Hi all dagger collectors,

I have decided to buy an SA dagger. It is from the estand, and would just like to make sure it is free from any major and unknown problems. I trust and have bought from the seller, and he is very fast and will work with you (just a recommendation).

I know that it is an RZM, and not stone mint, but it is the best I can afford, so please don't say "Save your money for a better non-rzm".

I have been saving my money, and I wanted an RZM!

Thank you for review, and I look forward to my first SA, if all is good.

http://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/foru...d.php?t=375250

[helmuthunter]

Hi Zack, it looks like a nice enough honest rzm SA to me. Doesnt appear to have been played with. Only thing mate is i have found IMO you could buy a nicer rzm type for anound the money asked for this. If you dont believe me go to Galien David Militaria and check out a couple of very clean ones sold recently for the same money. If you are patient they do come up. If the one you posted is "the one" for you than so be it, but just want you to now short change yourself mate. I believe a intact/unchipped grip and nicer blade can be had for around the same money if are willing to sit back and jump on it. Regards Johnno.

[Skipper Greenwade]

I have been saving my money, and I wanted an RZM!

If that's the case, I'd say you've found your quarry. Best wishes on your first dagger - I'm sure it won't be your last...those damned things are addictive!

Skip

[RadarZ]

Decent dagger, I wouldn't pay $450 + for an RZM with a rusty blade & chipped grip, but if it makes you happy, go for it.

[LandZack2013]

Yea.. I just like it, and since I am not really a daggers guy, I just wanted an SA for my collection. As you said though, they may prove addicting..

When I do get it, what to do with the blade? I do not want to clean it, but what would you say to do with it to stop the rust from spreading? I don't want to go putting special ointment on the blade without first consulting the experts!

Any other information about how one would care for this particular dagger is greatly appreciated!

[RadarZ]

Rust is a chemical reaction process, can't really stop it once its started.
On cars you can, by grinding away the rust or cutting off rusty parts and replacing with new, Obviously not an option for daggers.

The rust on this one doesn't appear to be too extensive, but will almost certainly get progressively worse in the years to come - The best you can do is try to preserve the areas which have no corrosion, and inhibit the formation of more rust with dry storage conditions.

Some like to lightly coat the blade with common 3 in 1 oil, or sewing machine oil.
This will preserve, to a degree, anything not already contaminated ,,, But it can be messy, attracts dust, and you have to periodically wipe and recoat.

Another option is Ren-Wax [Renaissance Wax].
A bit pricey, offers the same advantages as oil without the mess, is less visible and less prone to attract & hold dust.

[Skipper Greenwade]

Clean the blade carefully with Simichrome and store/display it out of the scabbard. Check it periodiclally but, if your house is compfortable with respect to temperature and humidity, it should be good for years.

Best,
Skip

[LandZack2013]

Yes.. That Ren-Wax looks nice, but a little expensive. Would that protect the wood also, or just the blade? I read on the website it works on wood, but you guys would know if it should be used here.

With the 3 in 1 oil, how would I apply it, and with what?
And how often should I re-apply?

[Skipper Greenwade]

Don't use oil - 3-in-1 or otherwise. It traps dust, can trap fingerprints and moisture. Ren-Wax or Simichrome are much better alternatives. Yes, you can use Ren-Wax on the grip.

Best,
Skip

[LandZack2013]

Thanks Skip.

Ren Wax or semichrome will not remove the rust, just protect the rest, correct?
Which is better for this particular dagger, in your opinion?

Thanks for all the advice!

[Larry Lipps]

Being overly aggressive with semichrome, or any polishing compound, can cause excessive wear to the blade. it's also very difficult to remove if you get it into the motto. It's probably the better choice for this blade, just use it with moderation.

[Stu W]

Hello,

It's always difficult to understand just what is going through a person's mind when they post comments. When I read yours I get the feeling you are rushing into this purchase. I suggest that you step away from this dagger, save your pennies, take some time and find one without problems.

In the mean time learn to use the Advanced Search function and read some of the numerous threads in the Conservation Forum that pertain to Ren Wax, rust and cracks in grips. Articles on The Sudsy Ammonia Method of cleaning and the effects of oil on blades also will be worth reading. Are you aware of the product Pre-Lim? If not you should familiarize yourself with it as well and how it works in conjunction with Ren Wax.

Experience tells me that when one buys an item with issues they are seldom satisfied with it in the long term and end up trying to upgrade. In doing so you will have to find another person willing to take on the issues you now face. They are few and far between.

The keys to building a satisfying collection are patience and knowledge.

Regards,
Stu

[M Wipf]

Zack,

What Stu W. posted above is 100% excellent advice.

I think you should hold off on buying this dagger and hunt down a cherry example, an example that you will be proud of. Rust is BAD!

Allot of the fun is in the hunt..

All the best ..

Mike

[Larry Lipps]

I second Stu's coments.

[LandZack2013]

So what would you say is fair price for this? Correction, what would you pay, seasoned dagger collectors? I think Tom is fair.
I still like it though.