MW.E.c. and E.U. a2 for operation

[17thairborne]

http://s18.postimg.org/w654piv6x/TNR...now_panzer.jpg

Heh!

But I live in the Desert!

[17thairborne]

Components assembled to build the capacitors.

8mm Inner Diameter brass tubing
proper capacitors as discussed earlier
High Temp/press poly tubing to mirror the ceramic insulator
Small 8mm washer to solder on the other end (not pictured)

I will fabricate the mounting arm and solder it to the tube (cut to the correct length. The cap will be soldered to the end of the washer, and the other end will be soldered to the original wire.

I will prime and paint the pieces and find some dry transfer model numbers to mirror the decal on the original one.

[17thairborne]

I just realized I ordered brass, not copper. What a bonehead! Brass transmits about 37% of the electricity that copper does. Its resistivity is almost 4 times that of copper. I suspect it would be like adding and additional resistor between the connections. I did not want to change the properties of this part of the device, so I am going to use copper.

[Quatsch]

Can't you crush or drill out the caps in the original holders? Also, if you select suitable copper pipe and then cut it with nibblers or whatever, you should be able to home make some holders cheaply enough.

[17thairborne]

It all hinges on the diameter of the 5mm new capacitors. I have to work backwards from them. Ceramic materials like the original are hard to find. I would prefer to build a complete set working from the outer diameter of the cap. The insulator that I selected is inner Diameter of 5mm and its outer diameter matches the inner diameter of the copper tube. Everything fits like a telescope. I will try and make them look just like the originals with the same stencils and color. I'll post progress when the materials arrive. I am looking at some ceramic tubes to see how expensive the material is. This is not a cheap project, but it will look exact.

[Quatsch]

Thinking about it, I'd saw off the tops of the ceramic bits and thread the new cap leades through them, and use hot glue to affix the caps inside the tubes. Solder the other cap lead to the case and you should be golden. Also you could remove the cloth and terminal from the bad original caps lead and place it on the lead from the new cap for a more original look. Me, I'd just attach the new caps without tubes or whatever, who, other than you, is going to open it to look and care about it?

[17thairborne]

I sized and cut my copper tube into two matching capacitor holders. I soldered end caps on them and scavanged the two brackets. The tubes were primed, painted, sanded and repainted. Here they are on the make-shift drying tree. Tomorrow I will see about inserting the insulator.

I contacted a Chinese company who would have sold me two proper sized ceramic tubes for $1 each, but shipping was quoted as $50, because they had to be packed in wooden boxes. Very strange, so I am stuck with the vinyl tubing.

Here is the progress so far. I am awaiting my dry transfer decals so that I can match the lettering. I think the color matches very well, just needs some patina.

[17thairborne]

Thinking about it, I'd saw off the tops of the ceramic bits and thread the new cap leades through them, and use hot glue to affix the caps inside the tubes. Solder the other cap lead to the case and you should be golden. Also you could remove the cloth and terminal from the bad original caps lead and place it on the lead from the new cap for a more original look. Me, I'd just attach the new caps without tubes or whatever, who, other than you, is going to open it to look and care about it?

Sorry I missed your post. I guess I am a bit over the top on trying to match these pieces. I was 1/2 way through the project already. I do plan on using the old leads to finish the project. This will be restoration more so than repair. Once I'm done with the caps, I can get back to the next obstacle.

I think I will just leave the on/off switch for now, because I am apt to do more harm than good trying to get at the switch.

[17thairborne]

All that is left is to apply the stenciling.

[Quatsch]

Very nice work! Also, if you do decide to get at that switch, I'm sure Samler and Yuri could help guide the process via the innernets. Shame they don't live in the American desert.
Also, I wonder why they'd make an often used and therefor problematic moving part, such as this switch, so hard to get to for service. Unless there's some hidden easy way in we're not seeing, the German ww2 3-d method of electronics construction lent itself to ease of repair, maybe not in this instance..

[17thairborne]

I don't understand it either. From my perspective it looked like I would have to remove several modules and wire harnesses to get at it. If there is an efficient way to do so, I am willing to try.

[Yuri D.]

Very nice work! Also, if you do decide to get at that switch, I'm sure Samler and Yuri could help guide the process via the innernets. Shame they don't live in the American desert.
Also, I wonder why they'd make an often used and therefor problematic moving part, such as this switch, so hard to get to for service. Unless there's some hidden easy way in we're not seeing, the German ww2 3-d method of electronics construction lent itself to ease of repair, maybe not in this instance..

I live in the common sense desert - California.

[Yuri D.]

That is very nice work! I love meticulous quality restorations. These items deserve it.

[Quatsch]

I live in the common sense desert - California.

LOL!!

Also, Oz could do a flyby with his a10 maybe with the radio carefully stowed away, could get his radio going for sure!

[17thairborne]

Flyby scheduled.


Here is progress on the caps.