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MW.E.c. and E.U. a2 for operation

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    #91
    You only need 0.022 uF (= 22 nF); here is a handy website to help you convert the value: http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html. You should be able to find a capacitor small enough as modern components tend to be smaller in size.

    Indeed drill out the complete inner workins so that just the shell remains. Perhaps if you unsolder the porcelain "cap" you will be able to remove it undamaged and re-use it later. If not you need to find some white plastic tubing (e.g. a bit of inneer insulation from a coax cable) to replace it.

    Drill a small hole through the far end so you can stick the wire through and solder it in place. It does not matter if you can not get all the mess out, as long as the new capacitor fits and does not short out.

    regards,

    Funksammler

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      #92
      Yuri,
      What thinks thee? Nice and smooth grease, looks recently serviced.
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        #93
        Originally posted by Funksammler View Post
        You only need 0.022 uF (= 22 nF); here is a handy website to help you convert the value: http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html. You should be able to find a capacitor small enough as modern components tend to be smaller in size.

        Indeed drill out the complete inner workins so that just the shell remains. Perhaps if you unsolder the porcelain "cap" you will be able to remove it undamaged and re-use it later. If not you need to find some white plastic tubing (e.g. a bit of inneer insulation from a coax cable) to replace it.

        Drill a small hole through the far end so you can stick the wire through and solder it in place. It does not matter if you can not get all the mess out, as long as the new capacitor fits and does not short out.

        regards,

        Funksammler
        Thank you! 5mm diameter capacitors on the way
        Last edited by 17thairborne; 03-24-2016, 02:03 PM.

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          #94
          It'd be nice to see a vid of the rig coming to life, hint hint.

          Also see here for more Mwec goodness;
          http://www.la6nca.net/tysk/mwec/index.htm
          Last edited by Quatsch; 03-24-2016, 06:33 PM.

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            #95
            Originally posted by Quatsch View Post
            It'd be nice to see a vid of the rig coming to life, hint hint.

            Also see here for more Mwec goodness;
            http://www.la6nca.net/tysk/mwec/index.htm
            I need to rig up a speaker so we can hear it. I also need to get a better antenna. Once I hear the sweet sounds I'll post a vid.

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              #96
              You're an A10 pilot? That's AWESOME! It's my favorite plane. The "pig". I have one of your GAU-8 training dummy rounds on my shelf.

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                #97
                While we are waiting for the caps, lets have a look at your headphones. The fact that you hear crackling in one earpiece seems to indicate that the headset is electrically ok, as the two coils are in placed series. I suspect that the headset can be fixed with some adjusting.

                Try to unscrew the bakelite earpiece from your headset. You should be able to do that without removing the rubber earpiece. It is always better to leave the rubber earpiece in place as it may get damaged by removing it from the earpiece unless the rubber is still fully flexible.

                Once unscrewed check the inside of the metal disk, you will probably find there are some circular scour marks visible, this means that the disk was screwed on too tightly. There should be a small air gap between the electromagnet and the disk, too big or too small and the headset will not work properly.

                Screw the earpiece back on slowly and scratch the contact pins with your multimeter until you clearly hear the scratching. Adjust it for maximum volume and back it off for about quarter of a turn. Back up the lock ring to fix the earpiece in place. Repeat the process on the other side.

                On the on/off switch you need to do a bit more investigation. I have known the switch to fail in the off position, I find it somewhat strange for it to be stuck in the on position. I suspect that the previous owner may have place a jumper somewhere to bypass the switch, so first you need to search if that is the case.

                A possible position is right behind the power plug, so check if you can see a new wire soldered in there. Another position might be the switch itself, but this may be impossible to see.

                regards,

                Funksammler

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                  #98
                  I see the problem with the inoperable ear piece. Neither of the wires are connected to the posts. Note the arrows, the wires are tucked under one post. I assume they are both wired in a similar manner?
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                    #99
                    1
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                      Headphones repaired and working. The reason the other ear piece worked was the loose wires were twisted together completing the connection

                      I have a few commitments for the Easter celebration, and following that, I will tackle the Ein/Aus Schalter in a few days and report back. Again, many thanks for the step by step assistance.
                      Last edited by 17thairborne; 03-25-2016, 09:47 AM.

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                        Originally posted by Yuri D. View Post
                        You're an A10 pilot? That's AWESOME! It's my favorite plane. The "pig". I have one of your GAU-8 training dummy rounds on my shelf.
                        An enjoyable career! They are always trying to put the hawg in a pen, but keep bringing it back to life. Our Army friends love it and the new electronic Buck Rogers aircraft cannot compete in the mud like the hawg can. My longest combat sortie without external tanks was 3.1 hours assisting a convoy in Afghanistan. We loitered at slow speed up high and awaited the inevitable attack that did not come, thankfully. Fuel is critical in such situations. I never saw out men attacked when we were overhead.

                        Interesting that the Soviet built SU25 is nearly identical to the A-9 that was the competitor for the A-10 during the early '70s. I hear it achieves similar accolades in the air to ground role.

                        This is from my last deployment in 2004/5 in AFGH with the my pig
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                          Ah, somebody definately messed with that one. There must be a short circuit in the wire, otherwise the other side would not work. Measure between the two wire ends to check if there is a short. If there is, wiggle the wire a bit to see if you can locate the short. Normally the internal cables are broken rather than short circuited. In any case, the two wire ends should eventually be soldered back on the two coils.

                          regards,

                          Funksammler

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by 17thairborne View Post
                            Headphones repaired and working. The reason the other ear piece worked was the loose wires were twisted together completing the connection

                            I have a few commitments for the Easter celebration, and following that, I will tackle the Ein/Aus Schalter in a few days and report back. Again, many thanks for the step by step assistance.
                            Sorry, did not see your earlier post there... Have a good easter!

                            Regards,

                            Funksammler

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by 17thairborne View Post
                              This is from my last deployment in 2004/5 in AFGH with the my pig
                              Nice pig How did your plane's nose looked like?

                              http://www.badassoftheweek.com/warthog.html

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                                I had a spare hour so I took the front plate off and made some images for you to review. I cannot see if anything is awry without further inspection. On the back side, one of the sockets and a wire plate is blocking the view of the switch. Is it as simple as removing the nut (red arrow), the friction fork and pulling out the rotary switch?
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