Soutaches
Since Patrick is enjoying this thread, here are two original soutaches. Note that these are tucked into slits just above the stitching line for the bill. The top is an artillery soutache on a 1941 dated M40 billed field cap made by Schlesisch in Frankenstein. The bottom is on a 1942 dated M40 billed field cap made by Clemens Wagner in Braunschweig. This second firm had two separate factories, one in Braunschweig where I believe the majority of enlisted caps were produced and another factory in Hamburg. Their administrative office was in Braunschweig. There were other makers like Carl Halfar that also tucked the loose ends of the soutache up into slits in the front of the cap just as they all did on sidecaps. Others wrapped the loose ends under the front of the cap and it was sewn over when the bill was added. Even some caps made by Clemens Wagner used this technique -- in other words, they did it both ways (probably because they had two factories in different parts of Germany).
True German soutache as found on tropical caps is much coarser than that made in the US even at the same time. It is uneven and "lumpy" looking. The US product is much more perfect. German soutache varies from 3 mm to 4 mm in width on these tropical caps however you can see other variations in continental German officer sidecaps since these were a private purchase item. It would pay to be suspicious of any soutache that is 2 mm wide on a tropical cap as that is what was available in the US and I've got several cards of this stuff made in the US that is that dimension. It is still available now in the US in 2 mm wide soutache wound on cardboard at many fabric stores.
Since Patrick is enjoying this thread, here are two original soutaches. Note that these are tucked into slits just above the stitching line for the bill. The top is an artillery soutache on a 1941 dated M40 billed field cap made by Schlesisch in Frankenstein. The bottom is on a 1942 dated M40 billed field cap made by Clemens Wagner in Braunschweig. This second firm had two separate factories, one in Braunschweig where I believe the majority of enlisted caps were produced and another factory in Hamburg. Their administrative office was in Braunschweig. There were other makers like Carl Halfar that also tucked the loose ends of the soutache up into slits in the front of the cap just as they all did on sidecaps. Others wrapped the loose ends under the front of the cap and it was sewn over when the bill was added. Even some caps made by Clemens Wagner used this technique -- in other words, they did it both ways (probably because they had two factories in different parts of Germany).
True German soutache as found on tropical caps is much coarser than that made in the US even at the same time. It is uneven and "lumpy" looking. The US product is much more perfect. German soutache varies from 3 mm to 4 mm in width on these tropical caps however you can see other variations in continental German officer sidecaps since these were a private purchase item. It would pay to be suspicious of any soutache that is 2 mm wide on a tropical cap as that is what was available in the US and I've got several cards of this stuff made in the US that is that dimension. It is still available now in the US in 2 mm wide soutache wound on cardboard at many fabric stores.
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