Connecting the left hand side final drive was always going to be easier than the right because of the distance from the steering box to the final drive. For the left hand side, the drive shaft could be used at it's original length with a simple adapter fabricated and machined to suit. The right side was a different matter as the output flange from the steering box was level with the inside wall of the hull, which means that the final drive input shaft has to be cut and re-machined.
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Speaking of sheep as per prior post etc...........I am now going to sound like one or be called a wus or something.
Shins under the drive shaft ..............are you fitting a guard? and did the poor buggers originally have a protective plate or tube ? Bit hard to tell on the pics.
regards
Tim
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Originally posted by timg View PostSpeaking of sheep as per prior post etc...........I am now going to sound like one or be called a wus or something.
Shins under the drive shaft ..............are you fitting a guard? and did the poor buggers originally have a protective plate or tube ? Bit hard to tell on the pics.
regards
Tim
Jon
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Originally posted by airborne_steve View PostJohn,
It has been a while since I last looked at your progress and I must say your work is the best I have seen! Most authentic PZ II reproduction I have seen!! Keep up the great work and keep posting pictures!!
It seems a very long time since I have seen a post from you, where have you been hiding? I am glad that it still meets with your approval, actually I have only just started posting again as I am refusing to pay until the site is sorted out but seeing as anyone can now post pictures I thought I had better update things.
John, what will be the solution for the track links, chain?
Hi Robert, I am going to try a set of fabricated links, just because I can.
Jon
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I now changed tact and decided to concentrate on the interior as it dictates some of the exterior features.
Steering brakes, obviously they can't replicate the originals because I am using a different steering mechanism but I will get them as near as possible, even if it's just for looks.
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Now here I have to admit that I cocked up a bit. As I have never driven a tank and I don't really have any first hand experience of a tanks mechanics, my interpretation of the steering brake handles workings was incorrect and thankfully I was advise so, by a member of another forum.
I had made the steering brake handles to operate the same as a cars hand brake. In other words, when you raise the hand brake it has a ratchet that automatically locks it in position where ever it stops, to release the ratchet you depress the knob on top of the lever. In a Tanks steering system, the lever is free moving and when you have reached your desired position you depress the knob on top of the lever which locks the lever in position. When it was pointed out to me it made a whole lot more sense of the very poor picture that I had been studying.
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WOW, you move fast!! I cant hardly wait to see it running!! Question are you replicating the drivers seat and the dash panel controls/gauges? Finally have you found suitable reproductions of head lamps and other accessories?
As for me, I took a break from everything for a while.... I recently retired after 34 years in the Army, and I started a new job which has kept me quite busy. Additionally, I'm in the midst of a divorce after 26 years of marriage so that was a major hit to my financial situation plus I lost nearly my entire collection of uniforms and hats but in the end, I'm free now and that is all that matters.
SteveLast edited by airborne_steve; 10-09-2019, 07:23 AM.
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Welcome to the club, I got divorced 9 years ago now after 24 years, I lost just much about all my worldly possessions but I now have a wife and life that I love.
The drivers seat is all done and fitted, there are actually 2 control panels, one big, one small, the big one is made the small one is on the list. I will take some pictures later.
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