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    #16
    Peter J. said: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    "notice how the eagles wings are coated with a grey color, and are not all gold colored, so do not shine it up."

    Are you seriously suggesting your cross is coated with with grey colour These pieces were made in silver (ag) and the oxidation will easily penetrate the gold colour. Mark my words, it would shine up like a Christnas tree, should you dip it. As for early or not, how can you tell

    cheers
    Peter

    Peter, this medal kodaki owned was never cleaned, and was awarded pre war in the 30's (how I know it is early, and same period as the one I have basicly)most people who find Eagle orders like this cannot keep their hands off them to leave them alone if found first hand (first collector to ever own the after the vet himself), and must insist they clean off the coating put there by the manufacturer (21)....as it is clear from the photos even the one that started the thread still has minute traces of the grey coating in the same areas low spots that escaped the cleaning some nimrod gave it to shine it up ,put there to accentuate the eagles high points . It is clear from my close up photos , you can see it was painted on by hand between the legs, inner wings, but not the chest or legs.

    To shine that off removes a part deliberate to its accentuation of the eagle to be more appealing to the eye, and subdues it in light to make the eagle stand out . I have photos of every eagle on kodakis award, and they are all the same....all with the grey coating .

    Another reason why not to change things found first hand from vets, as ,even finishes that are washes can be interpreted by the newby to be crud or as you said oxidation which is not the case(for example on a IAB with bronze wash on zinc...) can be easily cleaned off thinking it is dirt, but just removed the delicate finish. Taking digital photos of new found vet items helps detect the original traces of finish left not removed by normal wear or reaction to the zinc bas metal if store properly over decades in trunks or attics.

    Not all collectors are collectors, most are dealers, and try to make old things look new, and in turn reduce the value of items for that reason. You can believe what you want, just pointing this out, as the silver on eagle orders are plated gold on top of silver , and if you clean that part with anything abrasive, it will remove the thin gold plating and expose the silver , thusly damaging the finish. (same with the eagles factory grey added finish as a factory finish also)

    Another reason why I no longer mess with shows, or dealers, as they are the biggest offenders in most part or the collectors they get items from(unless they leave things as found if a vet find, second hand collector buys are almost always fooled with ) , then when they want top prices, when top prices are only pertaining to items left alone as found.

    It takes many years to correct this flaw in all of us who collect to have the guts to leave things alone. We all have made this mistake, and learned the hard way. I wouldn't pay top price for any eagle order that has been over cleaned, just the same as a finger print on an ss dagger...leave it there, and get 95% full value, clean it off with simichrome like some of the ss collectors here, who claim they do not clean their daggers, have found they ruined more ss daggers with their shining things up, and lying about it....yet no marks on the blade from the runners , put there to keep it from falling out of the scabbard(they are supposed to be there as is this grey on this EO). They still get lauded by the newbys who do not pay close attention damage clearly visible done by the collector , instead they think he is really cool cause he has so many daggers...(instead should be chastised for his destructive ways to many fine items that left as found would be worth the actual asking price)

    Now it seems after many years , the one offender has sold almost all the worst of his ruined daggers diminished by more than 50% for his act,but yet did the new buyers a bad disservice , and they paid him a profit on a crappy ruined finish ss dagger, have started over , and now have seen the light, but admonished me for objectively pointing this fact out on items claimed to have been claimed by him to be "MINT" and that is not what mint means, as in that so called mint blades example , pitting could easily still be seen on that blade clearly proving it was cleaned , as mint relates only to a original protected , un figer marked blade taken from stores in unused condition with factory finish, whose grind lines are part of the specs when it was manufactured, and I worked as a machinist in the aerospace industry making top secret government parts , and a specific finish is always in the blueprints, and even down to the breaks on the edges of parts when deburred. Same for German manufacturing of high awards ,and presentation items like eagle orders ,TK rings....etc. Its your choice to do what you want, just remember some day many decades from now, my words will ring true in your memory , and you just may change your mind, as un cleaned items will bring twice what cleaned items ruined by nimrods will.

    Comment


      #17
      M, I believe a 2.Klasse of 1943 is more plausible, although I would expect a PK-number on such a late award.

      Juoneen, that's what I call an elaborated response I wouldn't dream of suggesting you being economical with the truth, but I'm flabbergasted to say the least. I've been collecting for 40 years and never have I heard or read anything about this grey colour supposedly being attached to any German decorations. I share your thoughts about not cleaning decorations though.

      cheers
      Peter

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by Peter J. View Post
        M, I believe a 2.Klasse of 1943 is more plausible, although I would expect a PK-number on such a late award.

        Juoneen, that's what I call an elaborated response I wouldn't dream of suggesting you being economical with the truth, but I'm flabbergasted to say the least. I've been collecting for 40 years and never have I heard or read anything about this grey colour supposedly being attached to any German decorations. I share your thoughts about not cleaning decorations though.

        cheers
        Peter

        According to the Ordinance of 1943, the second category corresponds to the order with star and not the order of the German Eagle with neck ribbon.

        Do not be aquivoque... the "2" I show, that is part of the manufacturer marking "21" and the "1" of this post is also part of GODET, making mark"21".

        In 1943 the order of the German Eagle first class, happens to be a third class, not a second class

        Comment


          #19
          This is the 43's regulation maker mark of the German Eagle Order 3rd class, before first class



          or this one, with LDO (Leistungsgemeinschaft der Deutschen Ordenshersteller)maker mark:



          L/50 corresponds to the manufacturer Gebr. Godet & Co, Berlin

          Comment


            #20
            M, I've never seen the original regulations, hence I can quote only what's to be found in reference bokks i.g. Angolia etc. I've previously suggested that we use the correct German designation for these decorations, in order to avoid confusion.

            The Verdienstkreuz des Ordens vom Deutschen Adler 1.Stufe of 1937 is the 50mm neckcross. The Verdienstkreuz des Ordens vom Deutschen Adler mit Stern is the very same cross, but in conjunction with the breast star.

            In 1943 the two forementioned Stufen were re-named Deutscher Adler Orden III.Klasse and Deutscher Adler Orden II.Klasse. Should an awardee receive the 1.Stufe (let's say 1942) the correct marking would be "1". If awarded an additional higher award, he would probably receive the star to the Deutscher Adler Orden II.Klasse to wear in conjunction with his previously awarded 1.Stufe. If awarded together after 1943, the neckcross would be marked "2".

            cheers
            Peter

            Comment


              #21
              To me, this is not correct. The neckcross cannot be marked 2 under any circumstances. In 1937 regulating the neckcross is first class, is still first class in 1939 when they are manufactured with the added range and marking in the ring, and from 1943 is the third category which does not have object a 2 marking in the ring. It is not possible that someone received the neckcross marked correctly, that is marked with a "900 21" and, subsequently, upon receiving an order with star back to mark with a 2.

              I think that "2" and that "1" correspond in reality to GODET-21 marking, only that to do the horizontal marking not left such marks whole.

              For me, the book of Angolia is wrong on this issue

              Comment


                #22
                If you stamp a number "21" this must be of a size small enough to fit in the ring or pin catch. So, markings "21" are always smaller than those numbers shown above:




                Here a number "1" on top of the fan:


                I remember Peter and I were arguing about this long ago...

                Comment


                  #23
                  Hi Pablo,

                  Nice to see you hear, it's been too long I don't know if the contents in the previous pages are related to language problems, but I stand by my views, as presented in various reference books. There are only three things we know for sure i.e the classes presented in the three announcements made in 1937, 1939 and late Dec. 1943, the introduction of the swords in 1939 and the change from "Stufe" to "Klasse" in 1943. The question about the introduction of the fan and the introduction of the PK-numbers, as well as the actual markings are still just assumptions IMO. In 1937 there were 17 different possibilities (I've included both ring suspension and fan suspension, as examples have presented here as such). Same thing with the 1939 version (although it's highly unlikely the ring suspension was still in use), 22 versions. The 1943 version contains only the fan version and you'll find 30 possible versions (not counting pieces with markings not accounted for in a plausible way).

                  I'll try once again to present a scenario.

                  Awardee 1 1937-43: 1.Stufe 50mm neck cross marked 1. Later in his career he receives a higher grade (in this case the Verdienstkreuz vom Deutscher Adler mit Stern). He would then be presented only the 75mm silver star and continue to wear the 1.Stufe neckcross. Should this career move occur after 1943, he would receive the same 75mm star (now probably marked also with the "21") and continue to wear his 1.Stufe neckcross. The interseting part is how (or if) the neckcross was marked, should he receive the higher class at once i.e neckcross and star as a set (Verdienstkreuz vom Deutscher Adler mit Stern), as it no longer represented the 1.Stufe by definition.

                  Awardee 2 1943-: III.Klasse 50mm neckcross marked 3. Later in his career he receives a higher grade (in this case the Deutscher Adler Orden II.Klasse). He would then be presented only the 75mm silver star and continue to wear the III.Klasse 50mm neckcross marked 3. Now the tricky part. Should he be awarded the full set at once, the 50mm neckcross would be marked accordingly with a "2" for the actual class.

                  cheers
                  Peter

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Correct Peter, your post contains the conclusions that we share long ago when we talked about it.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      And think about this mark?
                      looks like an "S"... this brand can be seen in my order of the German Eagle in first class with swords, granted to a Spanish major character.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Sorry, I haven't got a clue.

                        cheers
                        Peter

                        Comment


                          #27
                          The truth is I nor is it means that "S" mark. I have set it for you to see on markings in the order of the German Eagle not this all said and most of the knowledge that we have on this subject are only guesses and personal opinions on what it could mean. Maybe those "1", "2","S" or other unknown marks are marks of workshop indicating that was done with a die or otherwise or that the piece is part of a specific circulation.


                          Note for example different marks at the top of the ball on the orders of the Eagle 3rd class manufactured between 1939 and 1943... still do not know that they mean

                          a 8


                          a T or a crown


                          a E


                          a L


                          a double T


                          a U


                          a W



                          : Confused Confused Confused Confused:

                          Comment


                            #28
                            so this is definitely not Deschler made then ?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              No.

                              It is not Deschler made definitely

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by marisca lrommel View Post
                                No.

                                It is not Deschler made definitely
                                thanks Marisca

                                Comment

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