Hi Skip..Im not able to post pics yet but see for yourself @ jamie cross militaria...... he has 2 in the navy badges section....Best Regards
Hi Raym,
The badges you refer to (a messed up F&B and a completely worn down Fo both in zinc) can't be compared to the buntmetall Junckers and Schwerin discussed in this thread.
Skip gave a quite acurate price range with the schwerin being on average €100 to €150 more expensive than the Juncker.
Yes I know Phillipe..... i got so much flak from other members about even the mention of J C that I wish I had never replied to this thread!!!! ......Best Regards
No problem Raym, we are all here to learn and one of the first things you learn in this hobby is that there can by huge quality differences in one and the same type of badge depending on the maker and the production periode. This is the case for the common IAB but also for a lot of more uncommon and rare badges. These difference are reflected in the value and when you also take condition in to account can easely triple the price.
I agree with Frank...one of a series of modern copies which pretty much encompass many of the war badges...on the example that Frank posted you can even see the artificial acid aging.
I agree with Frank...one of a series of modern copies which pretty much encompass many of the war badges...on the example that Frank posted you can even see the artificial acid aging.
To the not knowing i.e. me, what does artificial acid aging look like?
To the not knowing i.e. me, what does artificial acid aging look like?
Regards ...
Hi hagwalther:
One thing to look for is age or dirt that should not be there. Look at the front of the badge..it has a decent almost natural look to it, now look at the reverse...there are age spots, residue and finger print marks on the piece. Usually finger print marks result when an acid ager dips a piece in acid and the acid adhears to that part differently due to the oils left behind by the finger causing the finger print design...or this can be caused by a person touching the piece when the acid is still not dry...another thing to look for is a greenish or bluish or white powder residue...this results from when the acid has not been removed properly by the ager...ie the acid would not just be applied and left...you can often see this in areas by the hinge and catch where the ager did not do a good job removing all of the acid while still wet. Hope this helps some...I did not really want to go into too much detail on what to look for as an ager could be reading this...another thing that can be done is smelling the badge...often times acid will give out a distinct unatural odor that will last for months if not more...an odor that should not be present on a real badge (ie not the smell of original old zinc badges).
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