Luftwaffe Qualification Badge Cases
Hi,
This is a topic I don't recall seeing referred to much at all, in references or previously on the forum. It seems that every second or third LW badge you see comes cased and as the case adds around 25% of the value of the badge, this seems like a topic worth discussing!
The topic is - how to determine if a Luftwaffe Qualification Badge Case is a reproduction.
I've loaded a composite image of a Luftwaffen=Fliegerfchutzen=Abzeichen etui that arrived the other day. For the record, the badge in it is a textbook tombak Juncker marked example and the price I paid was, in my mind, basically for the badge so the case owes me nothing. Also, for the record, the case came in this condition - I'm not in the habit of ripping things apart out of curiosity!
I profess to not knowing too much about cases (LW in particular), although from Iron Cross cases I have a good idea of what to look for. Although the case in question appears genuinely well worn , personally I am suspect of it for the following reasons;
- The insert and the lower section of the case are made from a light to medium GREY coloured cardboard whereas the cases that I am 100% sure of are made from cream or light yellow cardboard. This grey cardboard has a moderate response to UV light.
- The insert comprises two pieces of this grey cardboard which are stuck together to build up the thickness of the insert, rather than a single piece of heavily pressed and moulded cardboard that I am used to seeing.
- The glue, although being yellowish and crazed in one section, is a lot lighter in colour compared to the dark yellowish brown horsehair glue I am used to seeing on known genuine cases. The response of the glue under UV light is similar in colour but more subdued than the darker glue on original cases.
- The velvet flocking has no texture/pattern whereas known genuine velvet flocking tends to run in lines (ie, have a pattern associated with it - sorry, not a good description).
- On the reverse of the velvet flocking there is a translucent "plasticky" material (compostion unknown) which I assume was used to adhere the velvet to the cardboard insert (no UV response). This is highlighted by the green pointer.
- The insert on the upper lid (which is still firmly in place but not pictured) only has slight give to it but does not feel like there is a thick silk padding behind it. There are also some large dents in it and, in the past, someone has scratched it firmly and these scratches have left indentations.
Other points of interest/comments are that the hinge is made from brass (non-magnetic). The push-button catch assembly is made from steel (ie attracts a magnetic). A thread from the blue silk hinge fabric burnt rapidly and cleanly leaving no hard globule. The writing on the lid is gold and appears to be in a known correct form for this type of badge. It is not inconceivable that the insert has been removed, reglued and then removed again.
I hope this topic raises some interesting response. Whether the case is genuine or a repro I certainly hope to learn something. So please comment! If you think/know the case is a repro, what are the dead-giveaway signs?
Regards
Mike K
This is a topic I don't recall seeing referred to much at all, in references or previously on the forum. It seems that every second or third LW badge you see comes cased and as the case adds around 25% of the value of the badge, this seems like a topic worth discussing!
The topic is - how to determine if a Luftwaffe Qualification Badge Case is a reproduction.
I've loaded a composite image of a Luftwaffen=Fliegerfchutzen=Abzeichen etui that arrived the other day. For the record, the badge in it is a textbook tombak Juncker marked example and the price I paid was, in my mind, basically for the badge so the case owes me nothing. Also, for the record, the case came in this condition - I'm not in the habit of ripping things apart out of curiosity!
I profess to not knowing too much about cases (LW in particular), although from Iron Cross cases I have a good idea of what to look for. Although the case in question appears genuinely well worn , personally I am suspect of it for the following reasons;
- The insert and the lower section of the case are made from a light to medium GREY coloured cardboard whereas the cases that I am 100% sure of are made from cream or light yellow cardboard. This grey cardboard has a moderate response to UV light.
- The insert comprises two pieces of this grey cardboard which are stuck together to build up the thickness of the insert, rather than a single piece of heavily pressed and moulded cardboard that I am used to seeing.
- The glue, although being yellowish and crazed in one section, is a lot lighter in colour compared to the dark yellowish brown horsehair glue I am used to seeing on known genuine cases. The response of the glue under UV light is similar in colour but more subdued than the darker glue on original cases.
- The velvet flocking has no texture/pattern whereas known genuine velvet flocking tends to run in lines (ie, have a pattern associated with it - sorry, not a good description).
- On the reverse of the velvet flocking there is a translucent "plasticky" material (compostion unknown) which I assume was used to adhere the velvet to the cardboard insert (no UV response). This is highlighted by the green pointer.
- The insert on the upper lid (which is still firmly in place but not pictured) only has slight give to it but does not feel like there is a thick silk padding behind it. There are also some large dents in it and, in the past, someone has scratched it firmly and these scratches have left indentations.
Other points of interest/comments are that the hinge is made from brass (non-magnetic). The push-button catch assembly is made from steel (ie attracts a magnetic). A thread from the blue silk hinge fabric burnt rapidly and cleanly leaving no hard globule. The writing on the lid is gold and appears to be in a known correct form for this type of badge. It is not inconceivable that the insert has been removed, reglued and then removed again.
I hope this topic raises some interesting response. Whether the case is genuine or a repro I certainly hope to learn something. So please comment! If you think/know the case is a repro, what are the dead-giveaway signs?
Regards
Mike K
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