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Japanese NCO sword

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    #16
    I agree, nice! Btw, is that a Formosan colonial sword in the background, and if so, what is the level?


    Tom

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      #17
      Good eye. It is a Japanese colonial sword for Taiwan. The sword is for Hannin level officials. Since you knew what it was do you have any range of price? I have been having it awhile and can not even remember where I picked it up.

      Jeremy
      Attached Files

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        #18
        pics
        Attached Files

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          #19
          Thanks for the pics. Unfortunately, I think more Hannin level colonial Formosan and Korean swords have come into the market over the past few years and prices are not as high as they used to be. A few years back, I saw swords like yours go for around $800. Now it seems like they are closer to $500-$600, dipping even lower at times. Although not in great shape, it is nice to see you have the knot with it, would probably bump it up some.

          Tom

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            #20
            Your brass tsuba, top latch aluminum tsuka example is a Nagoya Aresenal piece. The three fuchi stampings are the Gifu maker mark, a Nagoya Arsenal inspection stamp and the Kokura stamp (interlocking circles) indicating they were still administering the production program at that time.

            Your iron tsuba version, a Tokyo First Arsenal piece shows the Suya Shoten maker stamp followed by a Tokyo Arsenal inspection stamp and a Tokyo Arsenal administration mark. Kokura ran the program early in the production although they were not involved directly in manufacturing any Type 95 swords. Part way through the war they relinquished control to the Tokyo Arsenal.

            Both your swords are without doubt period authentic.

            Regards,
            Stu
            Last edited by Stu W; 08-09-2016, 11:46 PM.

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              #21
              Brass handle is the quick key to telling its fake. When all the paint is
              gone like in the example above the grip area is Aluminum not Brass.

              Only the earliest NCO's had a copper grip and would have four
              digit serial #.

              Those are the basics for not getting burned.

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                #22
                Thanks for the information guys.

                Jeremy

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