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    #46
    Do a web search for ethafoam, or try Talas conservation supply, University Products, or Gaylords library and conservation supply. Just make sure it ethafoam there are several knock off brands that will out gas. Paul

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      #47
      Hey Paul - Thanks for providing your knowledge again on what you think that needs to be done. I for sure appreicate what you have said in this post and in other threads...thank you.
      Somebody, after all, had to make a start. What we wrote and said is also believed by many others. They just don't dare express themselves as we did. Quote - Sophie Scholl - White Rose resistance group

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        #48
        I also greatly appreciate all the knowledge that Paul has added to this post and this forum, in general. I, for one, am sure that my collection is all the better prevserved and protected with what I continue to learn from him.

        Thanks again, Paul!

        Chris

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          #49
          Since I'm new to collecting militaria I can use Paul's knowledge to ensure my collection is preserved the proper way right from the begining.

          Thanks for all the help Paul!

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            #50
            THANKS! Paul

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              #51
              Got another question...my brother works at a lab and is going to get me a box of nitrile gloves to handle my medals (are nitrile glvoes safe for handling medals?) and also some moisture strips. Where in my case should i put the moisture strips?

              Can i put it under the backing of a case or on top but off to the side?

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                #52
                Yes, These gloves will work. Try to use the non powdered ones. The moisture strips should be placed (inside) a part of the case that is visable. So you can moniter it easly. Just made sure that there is a least 1/2-3/4 away from a item. So you can get an accurate moisture readings from that strip. Sounds like you are on your way to storing/displaying your items safely. Paul

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                  #53
                  Ok prfect. Thanks for the info. Well i got a small collection and want to see it grow yet keep the items in the best possible condition.

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                    #54
                    can you please be more specific, Paul, about inert cases?

                    can you post a link to an example of a fabricated inert case?

                    thankyou

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                      #55
                      Hi Von Hoth,
                      Sorry, I stated the term inert with out an explanation. I wrote about this style of frames in an earlier thread. The term inert means that the frame will not out gas, attract moisture, or cause any other archival problems.
                      Frames such as 100% alumniun, acrylic, or acrylic poly resin are 100% inert. Please make sure that the frame is not a wood core covered with acrylis, or plastic coating. The mat around a photo should also be acid free. The glass over the photo/mat should be a UV reducer glass, or Acrylite(like glass protection for ultravilote rays). Most larger frames shop or hobby shops should have these, or companies like Light Impressions, Gaylords Library and Conservation Supplies, and University Conservation will have these products. Most of these items only cost a few dollars more. Paul
                      Last edited by Paul R.; 05-19-2008, 07:59 AM.

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                        #56
                        regarding wood moisture and gasses/vapors

                        hi im a furiniture maker by trade and i have a couple of questions.
                        What if:
                        -You made airvents on the display boxes with some kind of filters in it.
                        -You use a waterbased lacquer that i aproved for people with allergi .
                        remember all paints and lacquers (if this is spelled right)isen't hardened before up to several weeks maybe as much as 6-8 weeks.
                        it may look hardened and feel the same but the process is ongoing.
                        regards geir

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by norwegian View Post
                          hi im a furiniture maker by trade and i have a couple of questions.
                          What if:
                          -You made airvents on the display boxes with some kind of filters in it.
                          -You use a waterbased lacquer that i aproved for people with allergi .
                          remember all paints and lacquers (if this is spelled right)isen't hardened before up to several weeks maybe as much as 6-8 weeks.
                          it may look hardened and feel the same but the process is ongoing.
                          regards geir
                          In my field of conservation. There has been endless studies and test done on display cabinets paints. keep in mind that an artifact will be in a display case for a fairly short peroid of time. If there is available 1 or 2 other artifacts that are the same, or simular to each other. The identical ones will be rotated throught out the length of the exhibit. Yes we drill holes in the cabinates and attach a filter membrane over the holes. We then attach a small fan called a biscuit fan. It's about the size of a biscuit and used very low voltage to operate. This fan is to allow air movement into the cabinet.
                          When a painted displayed cabinet is used. Before it is fabricated the wood moisture is measured. It it is not in range it is dried to achieve that dry level. Then it is sealed with what is called a high build, or hard epoxy sealer. This is allowed to dry in 38% humidity for about 15 days. If the cabinet is painted. The moisture level is tested again. Then it is painted with the hard expoy paintand alowed to dry about two weeks. It is like the high end boat or marina paints. The paint sell for any were from $65.00-165. an gallon
                          However if the wood is not totaly dried , or it is full of resin (ie like pine, or tanins from black walnut) the wood rots with in the confinds of the paint surface causing a rotted display case. Some hard epoxy paints due break down in time.
                          Last edited by Paul R.; 07-21-2008, 04:21 PM.

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                            #58
                            Paul,
                            Put.....a.....book.....together!....)

                            Bob.
                            I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous.....

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                              #59
                              my dagger case--
                              Attached Files

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                                #60
                                great display cases Guys. in my opinion the presentation of the items is almost (almost) as important a part as the items themselves. in that if the stuff is just spewed out in a room to the average joe it will just look like a pile of old stuff. your guests that are not "collectors' will just look at it for a mere second and say, "hmm". but if displayed in a museam style condition even those who only dabble in historical events will take an interest and Im sure will actually think its impressive instead of thinking, "is this Guy with it?" Im lucky and am a very good "carpenter" and already have grand plans for my war room in a few years that will include a wall to wall, ceiling to floor display case where all three (hopefully more too) ensembles and their accessories will be housed. complete with turnable bases that will be accessible from outside the glass so all angles of the mannequins can be viewed. yeah, Ive already got all the details worked out, now just to get the Kid out of the house so I dont have unknown visitors in the house when Im not home. great thread, keep it up. Glenn

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