Gorgeous Skipper, but then I am prejudiced...
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Wow Skipper - beautiful work and displays
ScottComment
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Awesome displays
Great craftsmanship
regards
GraemeComment
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skipper,
great work.
but I must ask, assuming you have many many display cases like that, does it take you forever to dust and clean all that glass? Or does the inside of the cases stay clean and not lint or dust gets on the inside glass so you just clean the outside of the cases?
I'm asking because I'm in the stages of deciding how I want to display.Comment
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Well, I have been using the foam-back velvet for a few years now and have not experienced anything adverse yet, but by the sound of it, I should be looking for different cloth?
Here's one of my dagger displays:
TimComment
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and one with medal bars; I have others with various badges.
TimComment
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Wow! From a conservation stand point there is a lot going on here. The wood cases do look nice. However if you want to preserve your items for another 60 plus years. You may want to concider displaying your items in a inert cases. Wood cases are a ticking time bomb. All wood whether it is stained, sealed will out gass damaging fumes. Wood also attracts moisture. Yes even if it is sealed.The foam back ground is another problem it out gasses and collects moisture. It looks like some frabric was glued to wood. That's a suttle way to help distroy and artifact. Glue out gasses. Displaying a multiple items touching glass is a problem. The house lighting and sunlighting is also heating up the case and damaging items. The visor cap has no support. it's getting cap over hang sagging. Never have wood, or foam touching your itemsLast edited by Paul R.; 05-13-2008, 07:22 AM.Comment
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Paul and Skipper,
Since we have both of you here, I think this might be a good time to bring up a question I have had on my mind for a very long time . . .
I've always liked the concept behind Skipper's visor cap display - it has a very unique support system based on a low-level of tension being applied to the band (maybe Skipper would care to show us all a few more photos), instead of the peak or crown. Although I believe some form of additional support design could be in order, especially in addressing the peak or crown, I still believe it to be the most inventive and best approach developed in the interest of supporting/preserving a visor cap and it's shape that I have seen to date. The problem I have always had with Skipper's design is the same of which you have chosen to address here - it is fabricated from wood. I know what wood does over time, and I have never felt comfortable with the media personally.
I have been experimenting with Skipper's design to some extent (sorry Skipper, but it is such a great concept!), and I have been teetering back and forth with the use of aluminum and stainless steel over the wood that he selects to use. If Skipper's design had been fabricated from one of these materials, I feel it may overcome the negative effects associated with the wood. If this were the case, and provided Skipper could deviate from wood to the use of aluminum or stainless steel in producing his visor cap stands, what other tips for design-improvement could you offer in comment?
I think if you two fellows take a little time to work cooperatively, you might just come up with something so revolutionary to visor collectors, that they would sell like "hot-cakes" and coffee on a cold-morning in Butte . . .
Looking forward to hearing what both of you may have to say in the better interest of all collectors . . .
BradComment
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N.C. I have been working on a low cost easy to construct system to store visors, and to display them on. This is a conservators worst nightmares is to correctly display/store them for the long haul. My design has been reworked several times so far today I'm not 100% comfortable with the design. One of my conserns is the actual weight of the hats visor. The ridged visor and it's shape in times actually pulls the thread and fabric apart. Putting preasure on the interior band pulls on other things. Sitting them flat puts pressure on hat visor pushing the thread, fabric up and out. Kind of U shape problem. Also being mindful on that visor went throught before me. I take in to consideration the actual visors condition it self. How has that visor been compermised/ altered (thread fabric). Not to mention what is still in the visor from the previous owner. Like human sweat, hair oil, rain, grime, tossed around, sat on, stuffed into coat sleeve, duffle bag ect. I know it's hard to imagie all the mentioned above does play apart on how to store them/display visors. I'll keep working on it. I have also contacted other conservators on there visor issues so far it is still a big (?) question mark. PaulLast edited by Paul R.; 05-13-2008, 08:41 AM.Comment
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Nice to hear your working on solutions as well Paul. I see a lot of people seeking the perfect answer to the question of safe and protective display for visor caps, but I don't see a lot of positive solutions that effectively address all the potential troubles that need to be considered . . . much like all the issues you mention.
It would also be nice to see a picture of your prototype - maybe it will spark some fruitful conversation from another perspective, and help you resolve some of the unsettled issues in your current design . . . can we get a pic or two?
BradComment
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The other consideration on display cases is to use inert material like plexiglass, aluminum frames these items do not attract moisture, or out gas or retain moisture. You never want to seal up an item. There should be vent holes in plexiglass displays. You also purchase small humidity strips and place those in the cases to moniter the humidity levels. Don't forget to use silca gel pacs.
I've said this over and over! We a lot of money on our hobby Spend a few more dollars to presevre history.
Make the correct choices to preseve the items that we have. This is not rocket science.
If and when were ever sell our items. The item that is well taken care of will comand a higher dollar value to our items. We all know that for sure. When we personally buy an item. We study it and look at it's over all condition. We usually don't buy something that's all rusty or riped apart.
I occasionally work at my friends military table during shows. I watch what people buy, and look things over. I see people try to sell him something rusty or torn apart. He either turns down the sale or buys it for less.
I am amazed by people spending $8,000 on an SS dagger then stuff it in a show box that will rust it out with in 2-3 months, or 12,000 on a tunic to go home and put it on a hanger.
We spend days, or weeks researching to buy a car, or a house, or what investment company to use, or even buying shoes.
Spend the same amount of time on your hobby.
It's up to you!Last edited by Paul R.; 05-13-2008, 07:59 PM.Comment
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Yes, I should photo some of my things. I don't because like most museums things like ethafoam get reused on other pressing conservation issues. I am also limited on my design space area. I will in the future. PaulComment
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Hey Steve im just wondering what the material in the shadowbox is? I went down to Michaels last weekend and picked up some acid free foam board and 100% cotton fabric to put into my some of my rikers mounts. Wanted velvet but the velvet they sell is a cotton/acetate mixture.
100% cotton velvet is a bit difficult to find around here. Might have to find a Fabricland and hope they stock it.Comment
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Fleece work Excellent. Check out the pinned thread archival medal mount. If you can buy the US made fleece China made fleece colors will run. PaulComment
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ok thanks Paul, I'll look into finding the fleece as well.
I have seen that thread and its very helpful (good to know hot glue gun glue sticks are achival safe) but i havent been able to find any place that sells ethafoam in my area.Comment
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