There has been a lot of good thoughts in this thread, but absolutely no conclusion. And the thread was started more than 10 years ago, my last contribution was posted back in 2005!
The following discussion (or monologe) will be about the serrated fragmentation ring only.
The smooth "SS" model can only be appreciated by the external appearence, like rust, paint and markings. Or (valid only for the actual owner) the source it came from. I have one of those...
Any smooth ring stamped with a metal stamp (impressed letter) has been faked in my eyes. Enough of that, as it is a matter of "beauty is in the eye of the beholder"!
In theory, there are three ways to make the serrated Splittering.
-die cast (never seen one, even not a fake)
-machined from a piece of tubing (pattern milled out with traditional tools)
-forged (heated, and the pattern pressed into it)
To tell if the Splittering was forged or milled is very easy! Some talk about even-sized and uneven sized squares, but that is an inaccurate way to tell them apart, as the milled ones could in theory be cut by hand in different sized squares. The difference lies in the technique used.
Let's pretend the initial pipe is 1 meter (could have been longer, could have been shorter)
The forged one is heated red hot and a set of "v" shaped knives are rolled around the body in one operation. The pipe is then sent through another machine with the same set of knives, but this time they cut along the length all at one time to distribute the pressure evenly. This technique will not remove any metal, it will simply push it sideways, as the knives presses down. The metal will protrude slightly along the edges of each square, giving that "uneven" look. Since the cutting is done in two operations, the last turn of the knives along the length of the tubing will also slightly move the ends of the cut along the length, making the "crossroads" narrower on the circumference, but wide open along the length.
The milled one is simply cut with a grinder or file, removing the metal that once occupied the place that the pattern is cut into.
A slight "melt-down" will appear at the crossroads if the milling has been done with a high-speed tool, slightly resembling the narrowing of the forged variety, but the raised edges of the squares is impossible to duplicate.
The first two pictures shows the difference between a milled and a forged Splitterring. The last picture show the "fake" metal displacement on a milled variety due to high-speed cutting. Note the totally flat squares.
The following discussion (or monologe) will be about the serrated fragmentation ring only.
The smooth "SS" model can only be appreciated by the external appearence, like rust, paint and markings. Or (valid only for the actual owner) the source it came from. I have one of those...
Any smooth ring stamped with a metal stamp (impressed letter) has been faked in my eyes. Enough of that, as it is a matter of "beauty is in the eye of the beholder"!
In theory, there are three ways to make the serrated Splittering.
-die cast (never seen one, even not a fake)
-machined from a piece of tubing (pattern milled out with traditional tools)
-forged (heated, and the pattern pressed into it)
To tell if the Splittering was forged or milled is very easy! Some talk about even-sized and uneven sized squares, but that is an inaccurate way to tell them apart, as the milled ones could in theory be cut by hand in different sized squares. The difference lies in the technique used.
Let's pretend the initial pipe is 1 meter (could have been longer, could have been shorter)
The forged one is heated red hot and a set of "v" shaped knives are rolled around the body in one operation. The pipe is then sent through another machine with the same set of knives, but this time they cut along the length all at one time to distribute the pressure evenly. This technique will not remove any metal, it will simply push it sideways, as the knives presses down. The metal will protrude slightly along the edges of each square, giving that "uneven" look. Since the cutting is done in two operations, the last turn of the knives along the length of the tubing will also slightly move the ends of the cut along the length, making the "crossroads" narrower on the circumference, but wide open along the length.
The milled one is simply cut with a grinder or file, removing the metal that once occupied the place that the pattern is cut into.
A slight "melt-down" will appear at the crossroads if the milling has been done with a high-speed tool, slightly resembling the narrowing of the forged variety, but the raised edges of the squares is impossible to duplicate.
The first two pictures shows the difference between a milled and a forged Splitterring. The last picture show the "fake" metal displacement on a milled variety due to high-speed cutting. Note the totally flat squares.
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