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    Foreign Made SS Parka - Observations

    This thread is intended to discuss some of the unique features between the standard German SS parka construction and the Norwegian variant, for those with an interest in such things.

    There has been much discussion about foreign made SS uniforms, headgear, and insignia. The foreign connection is an alibi frequently used for oddities in our collections to explain differences from known German patterns, or justify anomalies. To that point, there are a good number of tailor-made SS caps and tunics that are the genuine article and the highlight of collections.

    Other services and industries leaned heavily on foreign industries to produce weapons and Army/Navy uniforms, such as Czechoslovakia and France. However, examples of actual foreign made, mass produced SS uniforms and gear are actually not common. While some foreign components are used in German production - Italian gabardine, HBT, and Olona tropical fabric are notable examples - most of the actual uniform articles are produced in German contract industries, often using German machines or close equivalents.

    The Norwegian parka is an exception in that with the exception of the buttons, it is wholly made of foreign materials on foreign machines, using local labor. To me, these are really a fascinating cold weather item that are unique in that they are a completely foreign variant of an existing SS garment.

    Key observations:

    - The Norwegian model (NM) has a detachable hood; German versions permanently attached hoods
    - The NM has a completely difference fabric pattern than standard SS oak with a different material bolt width and repeat print pattern
    - NM are made of several types of thinner material than standard SS camo fabric, and have a waterproofing treatment like unissued original camo fabric
    - The pockets of the NM are thin, lightly constructed cloth bags instead of thick wool and fur used on German versions
    - They lack any stamped markings, size or otherwise
    - The NM uses a mix of recycled, heavily used buttons and new buttons

    On to the parka.

    s/f Robert
    Attached Files

    #2
    The NM parka is patterned after one of several variations of the Charkow SS parka or anorak. There are plenty of threads about them, so I won't belabor the point but German models were either solid grey green pullover or front button types, and a model existed using captured Italian camo pattern for the outer shell. There were variations on the number of front buttons used and other minor features, but they were of a type with a thick fur or sheepskin interior, a more or less waterproof outer shell, warm deep pockets, and a sewn hood.

    As you can see above, the NM had a regular collar and three metal pebbled buttons under it to secure the hood. It is the most visible difference in the NM and German models.

    I have handled three of these and own one. Let me start with the buttons. On the NM, the 15 originally sewn buttons are a mix heavily used buttons of different manufactures, with the remainder being new buttons from two makers, but primarily L&G. Two different used buttons are shown here, next to unissued ones.
    Attached Files

    Comment


      #3
      Next examine the pocket construction and material. There was not even an attempt made to mimic the German/Italian variants which used industrial stitching to attach a thick wool and fur pocket. The NM uses very thin rayon material, single-stitched with no reinforcing.

      The German model is on the bottom.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by RobertE; 08-16-2017, 08:27 AM.

      Comment


        #4
        Not much to these, and they are the only storage on the parka. Instead of being firmly attached to the shell, they have one double-thread tack to hold them flat to the body. Very poor from a strength standpoint and nothing like the German model.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #5
          There are no exposed size markings, or any hidden ones on the liner or inner shell. There are red ink cutters marks here and there, but this is completely unmarked.

          The sheepskin liner is nicer than the rabbit fur patch types used on many of the German types, but is just as patchy being stitched together with pieces, some of which are only a few inches in length.

          The liner is attached with a white, thinner thread using a zig-zag stitch. It is the only use of a zig-zag stitch and this thread for the entire parka.
          Attached Files

          Comment


            #6
            With the exception of the white thread used to attach the liner and grey thread for the button shanks, a tan thread is used for all other construction.

            The tan thread is single-needle constructed. In places where it appears a double needle was used, a close look shows it is two parallel stitches and not true double-needle work.
            Attached Files

            Comment


              #7
              The example I am posting is unissued, but has recycled materials. Besides the buttons, the faded fold line and material plucks likely indicate the use of a button closure unfolded and used on this sleeve.

              The rest of the NM closely follow the German/Italian 1st, 2nd, and 3rd pattern parkas. Pocket flaps are scalloped and broad.
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                The fabric itself is unique. It is a SS oak pattern, but measures 36.5 inches wide ( 92.5 cm ) and the length before repeat is 19.75 inches (50 cm), which is not the German roller width. The repeat distance and width make this fabric look different even in black and white photos - this was produced by the local Norwegian screening presses.

                There is good use of selvage edges at the ends of the fabric bolt to terminate the edges in production. There are at least two types of fabric weave (different thread count) used in this one parka, and the ink took differently to the two types of material which may indicate the use of different duck blends.

                The dye is also all over the place. The bottom pic shows two fall side shade sets on the same parka.
                Attached Files
                Last edited by RobertE; 08-16-2017, 09:15 AM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  SS camo varied in color and shade, of course, regardless of pattern. The top camo is the NM showing two shades from the same parka, and the bottom camo is a comparison of normal German camo.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Autumn side. NM on top, typical German on the bottom.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The NM has some really odd shades in it for an oak pattern. It looks like the dye meisters were making it up as they went along.

                      Lastly - button holing. Some have the cross bar stitching at the base to reinforce, and some don't. They are generally done poorly, which some barely sewn like is typically found on late war M43 cap button holes and others to a more professional standard.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #12
                        This is a good example of a locally produced SS issue item that made maximum use of local fabric, printing equipment, recycled materials, and labor to produce unit cold weather gear that approximated the German equivalent, but didn't attempt to exactly imitate it. The use of used materials in a new uniform item is also noteworthy - we know it happened but rarely have examples of production items to illustrate the practice.

                        This is the only fur-lined "Charkow" style parka to use a German camo pattern, which the Norwegians had to locally produce. It also saw local modifications that deviated from the various German models, such as the elimination of permanently attached hoods in favor of a detachable version. This was undoubtedly driven by local experience and feedback, given the good numbers of Norwegians serving in the Waffen SS.

                        I have not attempted to exhaustively cover the Norwegian parka, but to point out some of my observations. I welcome any additional comments on this neat piece of gear.

                        s/f Robert

                        Comment


                          #13
                          A local collector has stated they were made by a local mountain clothing firm that's well known.
                          But you know that


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                            #14
                            Looks like imported late war oak
                            The myth of this fabric being Local made needs to be addressed as its clear to see in this sample standard production fabric is present.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            Last edited by kammo man; 08-16-2017, 11:08 AM.

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                              #15
                              Cool man. Well made piece. I like it. Congrats.

                              Comment

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