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how to prevent oxidation on bullion wire

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    #16
    None as the application when done was with only enough 238 on the bullion where the white oxide was found. I took great care to insure a miniscule amount was applied. I think perhaps this is why it took 2 applications to get it right.

    You might consider using a small trimmed to a fine point paint brush in lieu of a q tip. I would also suggest getting a lit loop magnifier so you can get a precise close up of what your doing, go slow & don't over apply.

    Ahhhh, the rust store. Wish I were on the mainland as I'd do it for you for free. Expensive to order a can of the 238 for such a small project.

    Please post an image of what your up against. I can at least use this tablet to see what your up against.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Rich Moran View Post
      None as the application when done was with only enough 238 on the bullion where the white oxide was found. I took great care to insure a miniscule amount was applied. I think perhaps this is why it took 2 applications to get it right.

      You might consider using a small trimmed to a fine point paint brush in lieu of a q tip. I would also suggest getting a lit loop magnifier so you can get a precise close up of what your doing, go slow & don't over apply.

      Ahhhh, the rust store. Wish I were on the mainland as I'd do it for you for free. Expensive to order a can of the 238 for such a small project.

      Please post an image of what your up against. I can at least use this tablet to see what your up against.
      I have no damage yet Rich...........I was hoping to use the application to prevent possible future damage.

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        #18
        If you do not have any damage leave the bullion alone. Does not make any sense to treat something if nothing is wrong.

        You could however use an emitter. This is a samll device that emits the VpCI into the atmosphere. For excellent results it is best to have the item in an enclosed case or display case. Iif you are storing medals and other metal based insignia that may be mounted to cloth, no damage to the cloth will occur.

        The emitter volatizes into the atmoshere and releases in vapor format the amine carboxylate. As posted in the conservation forum, the chemical is chameleon like and once magnetically bonded to the metal will sink 90 nanometers into the substrate. Contaminants travel 80 nanometers so there is a zone of protection of 10 nanometers which is the widt of 2 human hairs.

        should H2O come into play (of course it will because it is in a ambient atmosphere) the chemical converts from a very tiny not seen tot the naked eye crystal to a film which in turn will not allow water or oxygen to come into contact with the metals (or medals) and halts corrosion by 5 to 7 times to the extent where corrosion cannot be seen to the naked eye.

        If you have a display case like a riker type, you can use the 238 to create your own emitters.

        A 1" × 3 " emitter ( web search keyword CORTEC 101 emitter and review tech data sheet) will protect a 1 cubic foot enclosure up to 24 months. A 105 emitter cup protects a 5 cubic foot, then th ere is 111 emitter too. To produce your own the foam should be 1/4" thick. Spray but not saturate the foam and insert into your display case. Be sure both sides are sprayed on the foat. The 111 protects 50 cubic feet so look on the internet for calculating cubic feet to understand your storage system.

        For home produced emitters which I use as well for various storage projects, antique motorcycle parts including engine parts, machinist tools and yes, militaria I retreat the emitters annually as in Hawaii we have sever sulfuric dioxide atmospheres from vog (volcanic gas, sometimes as , much or more than 500 tons a day over Oahu & then chlorides, moreso from winter surf and wind. Be sure to mark a calendar or keep notes of treatment dates & follow up on renewed treatments.

        The system is easy to use, not sloppy at all & best for those trying to stop the corrosion seen on zinc the VpCI will halt the corrosion consumption of various finishes as well as the base & substrate of the metal. For dagger collectors & those with weapon collections it makes life that much easier. From clips where springs are near impossible to be certain to contact with an inhibitor to bullion, life becomes easier collecting these artifacts. Also, when the item is removed from the case the inhibitor exhausts within seconds so there is no reversal process where museum curators are always adking about" how do you reverse the process"

        The other major plus is no dessicants to bake in the stove so your significant other will be happy too!
        Last edited by Rich Moran; 11-16-2014, 01:30 AM.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Rich Moran View Post
          If you do not have any damage leave the bullion alone. Does not make any sense to treat something if nothing is wrong.

          You could however use an emitter. This is a samll device that emits the VpCI into the atmosphere. For excellent results it is best to have the item in an enclosed case or display case. Iif you are storing medals and other metal based insignia that may be mounted to cloth, no damage to the cloth will occur.

          The emitter volatizes into the atmoshere and releases in vapor format the amine carboxylate. As posted in the conservation forum, the chemical is chameleon like and once magnetically bonded to the metal will sink 90 nanometers into the substrate. Contaminants travel 80 nanometers so there is a zone of protection of 10 nanometers which is the widt of 2 human hairs.

          should H2O come into play (of course it will because it is in a ambient atmosphere) the chemical converts from a very tiny not seen tot the naked eye crystal to a film which in turn will not allow water or oxygen to come into contact with the metals (or medals) and halts corrosion by 5 to 7 times to the extent where corrosion cannot be seen to the naked eye.

          If you have a display case like a riker type, you can use the 238 to create your own emitters.

          A 1" × 3 " emitter ( web search keyword CORTEC 101 emitter and review tech data sheet) will protect a 1 cubic foot enclosure up to 24 months. A 105 emitter cup protects a 5 cubic foot, then th ere is 111 emitter too. To produce your own the foam should be 1/4" thick. Spray but j8t saturate the foam and insert. The 111 protects 50 cubic feet so look on the internet for calculating cubic feet to understand your storage system.

          For home produced emitters which I use as well for various storage projects, antique motorcycle parts including engine parts, machinist tools and yes, militaria I retreat the emitters annually as in Hawaii we have sever sulfuric dioxide atmospheres from vog (volcanic gas, sometimes as , much or more than 500 tons a day over Oahu & then chlorides, moreso from winter surf and wind
          Thanks Rich...........I have lots of bullion insignia in glass cases, so this should be perfect for the application.
          http://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-V...n-P160C28.aspx

          Comment


            #20
            Roger that...over n out!

            Comment


              #21
              Hello all,

              I'm not understanding oes the CORTEC 238 help to treat and reverse oxidation or only prevent it from happening further?

              I have a vertical TK tab in my personal collection that appears to have been poorly stored. If I can help save it and/or reverse the damage thus far I would like to.

              Can anyone recommend a way to remove oxidation from bullion? I know Vaseline works on zincpest and badges, but what do people use for cloth?

              William Kramer
              Attached Files
              Please visit my site: https://wehrmacht-militaria.com/

              Comment

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