88 Rounds - Opinion on what to Keep

[dc9]

Hello All,

I have had these rounds for a while and ideally would like to "put together" the "best" example from what I've got and find new homes for the rest.

Admittedly, I don't know much about large ordnance and would like to learn something about what I have, for instance:

• What are the different primer types used for?
• What is the difference between the two fuses?
• Being yellow, I assume both of the shells are H.E. types?
• What do each of the markings on the fuse, shell, casing and primers translate to?

The first round (on the left) is KM marked - I am leaning to keeping this one, as it is unpolished, however there is a crack in the band area. What would the configuration of a U-Boot deck gun round be? (which primer, which fuse) - as I think that would be an interesting round as a "keeper".

If you need clarifications on any of the markings please let me know.

All information and opinions are very wlecome.


Thank you!

Eric

[dc9]

First round on the left. KM marked. 1939 casing. 1944 fuse. 1943 primer. 1941(?) shell.

[dc9]

.

[dc9]

..

[dc9]

Middle round. 1936 casing. 1939 fuse. 1942 primer. 1942(?) shell.

[dc9]

...

[dc9]

....

[dc9]

Right Casing dated 1936 and extra primer.

[dc9]

Any thoughts?

[JanC]

No idea about the fuzes. But KM ammo is always interesting to keep.
The most common 8,8cm are FLAK 18/36/37/41/43 shells so less interesting.

Also 8,8cm KwK and PAK shells are interesting to keep.

Cheers

[jiipee76]

I think all projectiles pictured are worth to keep.

Atleast in USA,where is less nice german rounds than in European market.

Projectiles look nice to me.Casings are not so good condition ones.

[dc9]

Still looking for any thoughts. Thanks.

[me6_130]

Hello,

Not an expert but might help:

-The first two primers are two different versions of mechanical ignition, usually used on artillery rounds. The last is electrical, usually used on tank rounds (some LW rounds also have electrical primers).

-The second fuse has a time delay, that might be set by turning the screw. I imagine the first one might be a direct impact fuse...but not sure about that.

-Yep, both would be HE rounds.

-FES on shells stands for soft iron band, not copper. Other numbers could be production dates (1936/1942/ 7.42), kind of casing (6347), batch number, maker's code (P94/ jhv/ oes) and explosive content.

Carles

[Dutchknive]

The C/30 round is a keeper!

[Zünder]

I'd keep all of them.

HE shells with original paint and markings are difficult to find, certainly in the US.
And yeah, the C/30 is always a nice find.

Difficult to say if the C/22 primer is original, strange find in a pre-war case. Does it come out ?

The A.Z. 23 does not belong on that shell, try and find a A.Z. 23/28.

Zünder,

www.wk2ammo.com