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Marinehelferin jacket or not?

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    Marinehelferin jacket or not?

    As someone with more than a passing interest in uniforms worn by the Wehrmachthelferinnenkorps I am always on the lookout for new items for my collection. Unfortunately female items are hard to come by. Part of that’s due to the fact most women either civilian clothing or because many of the so called “uniforms” were patterned on civilian designs, which were easily adapted to civilian use after the war. I was checking out the Kriegsende website which has a section devoted to female clothing (mostly civilian) and found the jacket which I will be discussing.

    An article titled Bekleidung, Ausrüstung und Dienstgradabzeichen der Marinehelferinnen (Clothing, Equipment and Rank Insignia of Female Naval Auxiliaries) was published in the Deutsche Uniformen Zeitschrift dated 15 October, 1943 and described a new uniform for Marinehelferinnen (MH). Some of that description is provided below:

    “Naval Female Auxiliaries stationed in the occupied eastern territories including Norway and Finland, were authorized duty clothing. The overcoat, jacket, skirt, and pants were medical-grey in color. As distinctive insignia they wore a blue cuff title with the inscription ‘Marinehelferin’ on the sleeves of their greatcoat and jacket.
    The tailored jacket had an elongated look, no belt, was fastened by three buttons, had two diagonally cut pockets and a pocket on the interior right. The skirt was manufactured from the same material, had two front pleats and closed at the side. The pants also made from the same material, were cut like Norwegian ski pants with two side pockets.”

    Here are some wartime pictures of the jackets. All the pictures I’ve located show the jackets with diagonally cut pockets, however most of the contemporary examples have pocket flaps. Most contemporary examples are also dark blue/black in color, whereas most wartime pictures appear to be a medical gray or green. Here are some pictures.
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    #2
    Here are some examples in a dark colored cloth. Notice that the backing for the trade insignia and for the hat on the second example is a different shade then the jacket.
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      #3
      Lets take a look at the jacket I bought. On the surface it appears to be a standard commercial jacket (which it might be). The color appears to be black, however it’s not the deep black associated with let’s say a Panzer uniform. Here are a couple of comparisons placed against a Panzer tunic which has a KM eagle. To the naked eye all three items look black. You can see the slight blue tinge of the eagle if the light hits it just right.
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        #4
        Here a few pictures of the overall jacket.
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          #5
          more
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            #6
            Here are some pictures that show the major differences between the jacket and wartime pictures of the MH jacket. These items include the buttons on the cuffs, the more rounded shape of the jacket panels, the small breast pocket, the two buttons closure and the buttonhole on the lapel. However almost every one of those features can be found on Helferinnen single breasted jackets worn by other military and civil/political organizations
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              #7
              another couple
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                #8
                When I was writing Last Ride of the Valkyries: The Rise and Fall of the Wehrmachthelferinnenkorps During WWII, Patrick Ott provided me some pictures of another MH uniform that helped me decide to buy the jacket in question. The uniform doesn’t belong to Patrick though he did supply the photographs. Patrick is familiar enough with German female uniforms that he wouldn’t have recommended me using the pictures unless he felt the uniform was original. Here are some pictures.
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                  #9
                  labels
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                    #10
                    Here is a small comparison of the two jackets. Yes there are some differences-mine has the extra seam in the back, jacket panels are different at the bottom, lapel hole on different sides, lapel shapes are different, and mine has the 3 buttons on the cuffs.
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                      #11
                      Now we get to the manufacturer. The jacket was manufactured by the E.M. Schubert firm in Chemnitz. Just as an aside civilian labels were sometimes placed into issue items manufactiured for Helferinnen. In this case the LW winter fur cap. I lifted the pictures from the WAF and will delete it (or try to) if the owner objects.
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                        #12
                        One reason I believe the jacket is a uniform item is because E.M. Schubert initially only manufactured men’s and boys clothing. Before the war they advertised as making tailored (massbekleidung) and ready to wear men’s clothing. Their shop was located at Horst Wessel Strasse 7. Before the war, there was a uniform factory run by a Schubert but not Ernst. It was located at a different address and disappears by 1940.
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                          #13
                          In 1940 a uniform factory run by E.M. Schubert appeared in the phone book. In the 1943/44 phone book E.M. Schubert was advertising as a man’s tailor shop and uniform factory. I believe Schubert manufactured women’s clothing as part of his uniform factory operation. Now could Schubert have manufactured women’s clothing after the war? It’s possible but why would he change from men’s wear to women’s clothing. The other reason I don’t think this happened was Chemnitz, especially the downtown area was largely destroyed during the war. I think I read they still don’t have a true downtown area. In 1953 Chemnitz was renamed Karl Marx Stadt (until 1990). I can’t research past 1944 because there weren’t any phone books published prior to becoming Karl Marx Stadt. I didn’t research Karl Marx Stadt.
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                            #14
                            The fact E.M. Schubert specialized in men’s clothing may explain why the jacket exhibits the features it does. If you look at men’s single breasted jackets of the era they look identical except for color. Yes the collar is probably more effeminate, but the use of two buttons to close the jacket, the small breast pocket, rounded jacket panels and buttoned cuffs certainly match men’s fashion of the era. I attached a picture (not German, fashion is universal) of some prewar men’s jackets. The jacket isn’t that flattering to a women’s shape, the chest measures 43” and the waist 39”. I guess it could be a custom tailoring job but its just as likely that they took an existing men’s pattern and reversed the buttons.
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                              #15
                              Could the jacket be for some other organization? Certainly. Organization Todt, Reichsbahn, and the Postal Service also issued dark colored clothing in the same style to their employees. But I still lean KM. Any comments are welcome. Regards Jim
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