Collar stitching

[Leroy]

There have been a number of threads in which it has been stated that the so-called "1000-stitch" collar (i.e. many lines of stitching used to attach the collar to the body of a uniform item) was uncommonly observed, although it might show up in some private purchase items.

I knew I had seen this type stitching before on issue items. Recently (while attempting to create some order in my uniform storage), I had occasion to pull many Kriegsmarine items. To my surprise, the vast majority of blue woolen ISSUED items used multiple stitching lines to attach the collars. Some illustrations follow.

First up, a Colani (double breasted jacket for enlisted and NCO personnel).

[Leroy]

Next, another Colani, as issued to enlisted personnel.

[Leroy]

A "mess" jacket for enlisted personnel.

[Leroy]

Finally, another mess jacket.

[Leroy]

I am showing these because I think they MIGHT have some application when discussing the authenticity of some panzer wraps. If the Kriegsmarine could issue jackets like this, why couldn't the Heer, the SS or the Luftwaffe? The wool used is basically the same quality, just a different color, and the tailoring involved was not much different from a wrap. Have some wraps been condemned for an invalid reason?

Just a thought and don't mean to create controversy. Just one more thing to think about.

[vbergman1]

Thanks for the photos! There is indeed a lot of variation here.

A lot of people probably already know this, but all those stitching lines are actually attaching the collar canvas (the collar's stiffening fabric) to the collar backing. If there are too few or too many, the collar can lose some of its shape. Generally speaking, the more the better, up to a reasonable point.

The exact number of lines and the exact pattern depend upon the individual tailor, or in the case of factory-made tunics, the individual sewing machine operator--his/her skill, preference, instructions, etc.--and if the pattern was chalked onto the canvas by the factory tailor or not.

On high-quality custom-tailored civilian suits made the traditional way, all this stitching is done by hand using a pad-stitch and is not visible on the outside of the collar.

Just a little more info to help everyone out! Cheers!

[Scott A. Hess]

Great info and thanks for sharing, I've often heard this was some sort of tell-tale sign of repro, however, I never could imagine that of the millions of tunics produced during the war by thousands upon thousands of workers that there was a total standardization of this sewing, and have always though there must be variations although I will say many of the Janke repros (and others) I've held do mimic this sort of overkill of stitching. Its good to see original pieces that confirm that Janke (and others) had to be working off of some originals and these originals shown would certainly suggest that this level of stitching was period done.

[Leroy]

Thanks, guys. I'm glad it may be useful.

I didn't show any of my KM officer overcoats, as I am assuming that most, if not all, officer items were private purchase. Five out of six of them have the multiple lines of stitching.

[Leroy]

Issue stamps for 2 of the 4 shown. The other 2 were so faded I couldn't get a decent photo.

[Leroy]

Another.

[Leroy]

Best I could do on another.

[phild]

Thank you for the post. I have been a major critic of issue PZ wraps when encountered with that degree of collar stitching, and often even much more.

It looked too me that most of the examples that you posted had between 12 and 14 rows...my eyes are not great so I could be off some. KM uniform items were always the highest quality...followed by the LW. An old collector in Germany taught me that almost 30 years ago and he is always proven right about it. I would never dismiss a Heer issue wrap based only on the number of collar stitch rows, but if it has more than about 10 or maybe 12...I would recommend that a person be extra carefull in inspecting it.

Most of this one source of Army fake PZ wraps that starting appearing about 18 years (or so) ago had more rows than the KM examples that you posted...I would guess 20-25.....those fakes usually had the LAGO Wein marking and the real dust powder treatment.

[Leroy]

I didn't bother to count until now. It looks like the one with the most has 17-18 lines of stitching and the rest are 11-14. Again, I didn't post the officer overcoats (private purchase), but they appear to have more. You are right that these are very nice quality uniforms.