BD Publishing

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Leather preservation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Leather preservation

    I know that there was a thread in the old forum about this, but it wouldn't hurt to bring the subject up again. How should you preserve leather details in e.g. caps (sweatbands), belts, straps etc.? I know that there are militaria dealers selling conditioners, but I have heard that leather will react just as your own skin to a treatment... I.e. if having been untouched for a long time, and although beginning to get dried out and frail, a conditioning might result in an instant pleasing result - but after some time the leather will turn worse (more dried out) than before, because it has "got used" to the conditioner...?
    Also, if you should use some kind of conditioner, what is recommended to prevent the leather from darkening?
    Mikael G.

    #2
    Hi, I've reserched this pretty extensively for some of my leather things, and come to the conclusion that is better just to do nothing at all with old leather. just keep it in a good environment and enjoy it for what it is. There are many different products that people swear by, but they all seem to not really work very well or have side effects (darkening, oily texture etc). On helmets, I stay away from liners that have been "treated" by collectors just because I like items that haven't been messed with. I think trying to fix leather just makes the item less desirable in the end. To each his own though, and I'm sure there are guys on the forum with a list of some of the better products on the market if you choose that route

    Comment


      #3
      I agreee with Andy to a large extent. Helmet liners and sweat bands, being thin leather - if already dry and cracked, anything one puts on them will not make a difference and, in some cases, hurt - as well as possibly lower the value (helmet collectors are particular this way as Andy noted).
      However, leather items such as y-straps, and footgear may benefit form a little treatment. In the 35 years I have collected I think I have given these kinds of items a leather treatment about 4 times. I do it lightly. In between, I will frequently wipe them with a dry cloth, keep them away from direct light and damp areas. Almost every piece has survived quite well.
      I should mention that I check with museums when I can to see what, if anything, they use or recomend, but there seems to be a lot of opinions there aw well - many say do nothing. Of course most have climatic conntrols and proffessional display cases that are sealed, etc, but some do mention certain products they use...English Leather Dressing comes to mind - I have never found any. An alternate is to look in antique shops and see what they have.
      Lexol is more widely accepted as not a good thing anymore, although once upon a time it was a good thing and I used it. Saddle saop, mink oil, etc are bad ju-ju.
      All that said, the less the better it seems.
      CSP


      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for sharing your experience, Andy! My intended route is actaully to leave it as it is (i.e. untouched). It is indeed noticeable how much different quality level of the leather parts matters over the years; I have for instance an Erel cap with a still soft and supple sweatband, after all these years, wile the cheap lether sweatband of a standard issue USAAF crusher is almost disintegrating by itself. This may also be a result of previous storing conditions, but anyway I think I will leave the items as they are...
        Mikael G.

        Comment


          #5
          I'm also a big fan of leaving the leather untouched but in some instances this can't be done, and the leather desperately needs treatment. It is of my opinion that only pure lanolin should be used. It has the least (if any) adverse effect than anything else out on the market. If the leather needs it, lanolin is the best out there.

          Comment


            #6
            Not wishing to appear abrupt but, leave it alone! You can only ruin the integrety and value by doing any sort of treatment to "original" leather material. Collectors know the damage time does and will accept that...
            Dave

            Comment


              #7
              If the leather is in good shape leave it alone. But, if it in such bad shape that it is literally falling apart what good does it to leave it alone? I recently bought a civil police helmet that had a liner that one of the fingers fell off by my touching it. The gentleman at German Helmets.com recommended "Percards" leather treatment. It worked wonderfully. It restored the leather perfectly with a just little darkening. It is made for antique leather (saddles, holsters,etc.) The company brouchres explain the difference between saddle soap and their products.

              Comment


                #8
                As a former museum conservator, I would agree with most of what's been said here. Leave alone where possible. If leather needs help, Pecard Antique Leather Dressing is excellent; pure lanolin (available at drugstores) is better for light colored leather.

                Original quality of leather, the tanning method used, storage & atmospheric conditions (air pollution), all have their effect. Some old leathers were tanned using a sulphuric acid process, & these will literally self-destruct with what is called "red rot". Red rot is said to be incurable, but if someone wants to experiment on an expendable piece, it may be that a lengthy soaking in a slightly alkaline solution will neutralize the acid. Treating such a piece with Ballistol might be another option.

                Comment

                Users Viewing this Thread

                Collapse

                There is currently 1 user online. 0 members and 1 guests.

                Most users ever online was 8,717 at 11:48 PM on 01-11-2024.

                Working...
                X