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    #1

    To re-blue or not re-blue?

    My first piece that I bought a couple years ago ($600)I jumped the gun and didn't do so well. It is cyq p38 all matching, nice brown grips, e/88 magazine and fine mechanicaly. But by concensus of opinion of those who have seen it, the vet who brought it back buffed all the bluing off. Well never know why May be he had a good reason. All the proofs are still there and deep along with CYQ's infamous heavy mill marks. Should I leave it alone or reblue it and enjoy as a shooter I have been told rebluing won't hurt its value because of what has happened to it. Opinions?
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    #2
    Because there are a fairly large number of these out there I don't think you are committing a crime by rebluing it. I would have a good hot blue job done to it though. The blue job will do two things, make it more pleasing to look at and protect it from rust. I would say go ahead and do it. And I don't say that lightly or easily.


    Gary
    Originally posted by Herr Haggard View Post
    My first piece that I bought a couple years ago ($600)I jumped the gun and didn't do so well. It is cyq p38 all matching, nice brown grips, e/88 magazine and fine mechanicaly. But by concensus of opinion of those who have seen it, the vet who brought it back buffed all the bluing off. Well never know why May be he had a good reason. All the proofs are still there and deep along with CYQ's infamous heavy mill marks. Should I leave it alone or reblue it and enjoy as a shooter I have been told rebluing won't hurt its value because of what has happened to it. Opinions?

    Comment

      #3
      be sure its not a phosphate finish! i have seen some other mfg that are in phosphate finish. they look like an unblued gun , kind of a stainless dull finish. i think they are rare in the phosphate finish. don't know if cyq did phosphate or not . don't see why not.

      Comment

        #4
        If all of the bluing is gone, I would agree with the others and go for it. If it is done well I don't see any harm in it. I don't think a P38 as you describe really has any collector's value as it is, neither will it once it has been reblued. But at least you have a nice looking, authentic pistol that you can have fun with at the range!

        Good luck, and let us know how it works out for you if you decide to go through with it.

        Edit, I would also be interested to hear about this "phosphate finish", I have never heard of that before.

        Comment

          #5
          Rylan,

          A lot of late war German weapons (STG44, MG42, MG34, P-38, CZ27 etc.)had a grey phosphate finish applied instead of the standard bluing. It was faster and oftimes there was no way to blue the weapons do to lack of supply.
          Originally posted by RylanBrissette View Post
          If all of the bluing is gone, I would agree with the others and go for it. If it is done well I don't see any harm in it. I don't think a P38 as you describe really has any collector's value as it is, neither will it once it has been reblued. But at least you have a nice looking, authentic pistol that you can have fun with at the range!

          Good luck, and let us know how it works out for you if you decide to go through with it.

          Edit, I would also be interested to hear about this "phosphate finish", I have never heard of that before.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by RylanBrissette View Post
            If all of the bluing is gone, I would agree with the others and go for it. If it is done well I don't see any harm in it. I don't think a P38 as you describe really has any collector's value as it is, neither will it once it has been reblued. But at least you have a nice looking, authentic pistol that you can have fun with at the range!

            Good luck, and let us know how it works out for you if you decide to go through with it.

            Edit, I would also be interested to hear about this "phosphate finish", I have never heard of that before.
            The phosphate finish will not be found on cyq pistols and is generally found on some very late 1944 and 45 Mauser produced pistols and rifles.....in some cases only some parts of a given weapon were finished in that way and the other parts were blued...hence the term "dual-tone" P.38.

            I would disagree only to the extent that "collectors value" in subjective and in the eye of the beholder. I personally would not want a firearm that was re-blued or stripped of finish in my collection, but there are others who do have these.

            One exception that I make is in the case of military re-furbs, which often I prefer to a straight factory example. There is nothing wrong with a Confederate conversion longarm or a SS deathhead re-work 98k although neither are FACTORY original firearms!

            I agree that a proper re-blue would not hurt the value of your example in most peoples minds..including mine, but it will still be a WWII German P.38 and many will find that worth owing...as a "shooter" or not.

            Comment

              #7
              If I do reblue?

              If I do reblue it? Does any one have suggestions on whom or how?

              Comment

                #8
                Never reblue. That's my opinion.

                If you want a nicer, blued P38, then sell this one (to me) and buy a nicer one.

                I'd be happy to own this one just as it is.

                My 2ยข,
                Cincylance
                cincylance@fuse.net

                Comment

                  #9
                  To me, re-bluing is a personal choice.....The piece is lacking it's original finish any way and as stated, the re-blue would protect the metal/enhance appearance.....As long as the owner is upfront and honest when the time comes to sell, the buyer can determine for themselves whether/not it would be something they would want....Bodes

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Cincylance View Post
                    Never reblue. That's my opinion.

                    If you want a nicer, blued P38, then sell this one (to me) and buy a nicer one.

                    I'd be happy to own this one just as it is.

                    My 2ยข,
                    Cincylance
                    cincylance@fuse.net
                    Well there you go. Just for the record I have a number of military firearms with little to no orginal finsh remianing on them, so the existance of finish is not an automatic criteria for a firearm to be "collectable"..whatever that means. I should also say that in my case they are Civil War period firearms, but none the less the P.38 in question is still a legit full blooded German pistol!

                    I can also show you recent auction sales of military firearms the realized 6 figures and had little to no orignal finish remaining.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      If it is an original matching piece that is just worn, not buffed out, a reblue is painting a mustache on Mona Lisa.

                      I don'y get weepy about "the history"I don't care where it's been.

                      An original undinked artifact should be left as is. Us old guys learned it like that and make no justifications for it.

                      Sell it to somebody who will appreciate it for what it is and buy a nice RC or mixmaster.

                      It's yours, chrome it or make a lamp if you wish.
                      MLP

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Difficult question...
                        It all depends on what you are looking for. If we are talking about a gun that was intentionally buffed, then it is already messed with - in my opinion, in this case, a reblue won't harm it more that it was already done.

                        On the other hand, if its appearance is a result of 65 years old wearing, then you shouldn't touch it. Bear in mind that you have a Spreewerk P.38 and most of their production is know for the careless finish.

                        Douglas

                        Comment

                          #13
                          19th edition of the blue book of gun values shows on page 540 at the bottom a 20 percent add on for dual tone or phosphate finish. page 541 shows a 1945 svw code available in all gray finish at 20 percent add on. these blue books are superior in thier value to help id and appraise guns. as far as resoring i am told and have seen the work of doug turnbull. he is supposed to be about the best and it is said his restorations are correct in every way and virtually identical to new. he is not cheap, but neither am i at what i do. you pay for what you get. good luck. i don't think i would leave a gun in the raw so to speak for corrosion if nothing else. i'd probably reblue it. ask some dealers at the shows that have some really nice reblued pieces who they use.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            19th edition of the blue book of gun values shows on page 540 at the bottom a 20 percent add on for dual tone or phosphate finish. page 541 shows a 1945 svw code available in all gray finish at 20 percent add on. these blue books are superior in thier value to help id and appraise guns.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Agreed.... I'm appalled at some of the advice seen on the forums.... not even a picture and this could be a rare late war Spreewerke... .

                              Originally posted by pitts duncan View Post
                              19th edition of the blue book of gun values shows on page 540 at the bottom a 20 percent add on for dual tone or phosphate finish. page 541 shows a 1945 svw code available in all gray finish at 20 percent add on. these blue books are superior in thier value to help id and appraise guns.

                              Comment

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