Hi . I have 3 p-38s, that need to be cleaned . The question is, can any one give instructions how to break it apart. How do I prepare them for long term storage??
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p-38 BREAK DOWN
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How to strip:
http://www.gunsworld.com/assembly/waltherp38_ass_us.htm
Long term storage tips:
http://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/foru...g+term+storage
Cheers, Ade.
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Originally posted by ALJEFF View PostHi . I have 3 p-38s, that need to be cleaned . The question is, can any one give instructions how to break it apart. How do I prepare them for long term storage??
If they will be stored in a climate controlled condition I would recommend a carefull wipe down inside and out with a top grade gun oil that has strong corrosion preventive qualities. Everyone has their favorite, but the older Birchwood Casey "Sheath" now I believe called "Barricade" is about as good as any an better than most. You can also buy various VPI paper wraps to actually put them in as it is important that they are not in contact with any surface that has acids or other corrosive properties (including some woods), also make sure that the storage area and actual container is not high in humidity.
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P38's
Check out the P38 forum, goggle it you'll find it. Very informative board about the P38, what dates and codes of P38's do you have? Being in Tennessee I'm sure you have your issues w/ humidity. I have those little desicant silca gel packs in my gun safes to help with that. Wipe everything off with a thin coating of oil after use, oils and moistures from your fingers can be dangerous in a humid environment! Chris...
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Here is the entire manual in PDF. Although postwar, the breakdown would be the same.
http://www.whog.org/p38manual/P38Manual.pdf
I would also recommend the P.38 forum:
http://www.p38forum.com/
Regards,
Ron
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A good safe with a "golden rod" dehumidity heater is your best bet. For guns with holsters I use the technique that a fellow collector John James recommends:
"All of my 300 some pistols are stored in holsters, with the pistols
wrapped in a plastic wrap. First of all, I used G96 Gun Treatment and apply
a light coating to all of the metal surfaces. I then use Reynolds 910
sandwich wrap that I buy at the Sam's Club in a 200 foot roll. After
applying the G96, I carefully lay the pistol down at one end of the 20 inch
[for 7.65 mm's] or so long section and commence to fold over the top and
then the bottom to cover the pistol. This then leaves me with a much more
narrower section that I then fold the butt end over the pistol , followed
by the muzzle end at 45 * degree angle and keep wrapping around the pistol
till all is covered or plastic wrap length is utilized. Do not wrap too much
as dimensions induced by the plastic wrap will, at times, not allow pistol
to be inserted in the holster. This is especially true when holster is tight
fit to begin with. Been doing it for years with no problems. Keeps the
holster in shape and at the same time protects the gun. A word of caution,
do not attempt to utilize any of the common brand plastic wraps found in the
grocery stores as the gun treatment oil will eventually dissolve the plastic
wrap thus exposing excess oil or the oil treated surfaces to the leather.
This is not all that disturbing unless you have a tan or light brown leather
holster. However if this happens, just extract the weapon from the holster
and let the holster stand alone for 4 or 5 days as the G96 will eventually
evaporate without leaving a watermark. This unintentional event has been
experienced by me personally without any serious damage or dis colorment . I
have discovered that excess oil can very well be found/generated when one
sprays the inside of barrel and then has the pistol pointed downward in the
holster for a lengthily period of time. In addition, I always insert a
magazine in the magazine pouch [if provided] whether I obtain another
magazine or remove the one in the pistol and insert it in the pouch. It also
aids in the shape and conditioning of the holster. Good luck !!"
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