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    #16
    Leon,
    Superb photos.......The rifle looks great

    The mark on the P.38 sear is odd. Is it engraved? It does not look stamped and there is no swastika under the eagle.
    Was this usual practice?

    Van Hoth,
    Try reading the manuals, your photos will probably improve no end...
    Most modern compacts have very good macro capabilities.

    Steve.

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      #17
      Steve,

      I believe the marking was just so small that they couldn't put a swatika in it. The marking has to have been done with a rotary tool and, because the movement of the tool was so uniform for most of it, I suspect it was pantographed.

      Thanks for the comments about the pictures. I spent a lot of time and effort coming to that point in my picture taking skills.

      Regards, Leon

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        #18
        Well I've had a go...

        How do I attach an image to a message?

        Sorry for the basic question...

        Phlarris

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          #19
          P38 Pics

          Well here are my first attempts at photographing my P38:





          Enjoy

          Phlarris

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            #20
            Keys for success...<O</O
            1) Subdued natural light... no flash, no direct sun<O</O
            2) Macro or supermacro feature on camera<O</O
            3) Forget the tripod... a decent camera works fine w/o



            <O> </O>

            <O> </O>

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              #21
              One other trick I like to use that hasn't been mentioned, and having a high megapixel camera helps. When trying to take closeups of small markings, take a real high quality picture from a reasonable distance-- then, use a photo editing program to cut that area from the photo. A small section of a high quality picture will still be nice and clear. Below is a closeup section from a higher quality picture (top pic is cut from lower pic).





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                #22
                I use a slightly different technique. My "studio" is a glass table with a white board under it. There are (4) 600 Watt lights that are bounced off of umbrella shades onto the target, this eliminates the shadows and glare. I then use a grey card to control the white balance, some camera's have this ability built in. Then a photo editing program to make the photo merge.

                Here is an example of my results.

                Last edited by BostonMark; 03-30-2007, 10:18 AM.

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                  #23
                  Mark,
                  This illustrates your standard of excellence in photography of firearms. Beautiful work.
                  Thanks for your advise and council!!

                  r
                  The probability of being watched is directly proportional to the stupidity of your act.

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                    #24
                    Thanks

                    Just a big thanks to everyone who's posted so far. Not only have I learned a few things, we've also come up with some beautiful pictures of some beautiful weapons.

                    Keep 'em coming

                    Regards

                    Phlarris

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                      #25
                      wow, bostonmark blows me away, and I thought I was good.


                      thanks for sharing the tips.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by BostonMark View Post
                        I use a slightly different technique. My "studio" is a glass table with a white board under it. There are (4) 600 Watt lights that are bounced off of umbrella shades onto the target, this eliminates the shadows and glare. I then use a grey card to control the white balance, some camera's have this ability built in. Then a photo editing program to make the photo merge.

                        Here is an example of my results.
                        Ok, but any other ideas how to make such "white backgroud" photo if you don't have a glass table?

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                          #27
                          As an alternate you can use a piece of plexi glass over (4) 2 quart jars with the white board under it or build a base out of 2x4's.

                          Keeping the gun suspended will remove the shadows from the photograph, the real "key" is proper lighting and being able to correct the "white balance" in your camera.

                          Trial and error is the best teacher, it took me a long time to perfect my skills. (Remember to bracket your exposures so you can better understand what "f" setting and shutter speed will work best) The problem I have now is the need to "reshoot" many of the photos on my web site since my technique has improved.

                          A link to the photos, you will see some are better than others.

                          http://www.p38guns.com

                          Mark

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                            #28
                            wow, you have a HUGE pistol collection.

                            I really like your RZM ppk, unbelievable condition it's in.

                            and that reichsbank employee ppk, that is really cool and it shows that the finger extension is not mottled brown like the grips?

                            i had assumed plain brown would be post war, but it has the serial number on the magazine with mottled brown grips?

                            did plain brown finger extensions exist on any other pre war or war time ppk's?

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                              #29
                              Here are two tutorials on PP and PPk mags.

                              http://www.p38guns.com/PPkmags.htm

                              http://www.p38guns.com/PPmagvar.htm

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