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    what to finish a stock with

    Hello I just finished getting the walnut stock on my K98 ready for some type of finish.What do you guys recomend I put on it to make it as close to the original finish as possible.Thanks Johnny.

    #2
    Its hard to go wrong with good old boiled linseed oil.


    Dave


    Originally posted by Johnny
    Hello I just finished getting the walnut stock on my K98 ready for some type of finish.What do you guys recomend I put on it to make it as close to the original finish as possible.Thanks Johnny.

    Comment


      #3
      According to the original 98K Denckler manual, linseed oil was used, and the inside channels of the stock were greased to prevent moisture from accumulating.

      John@GermanManuals.com
      www.GermanManuals.com

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by jbaum
        According to the original 98K Denckler manual, linseed oil was used, and the inside channels of the stock were greased to prevent moisture from accumulating.

        John@GermanManuals.com
        www.GermanManuals.com
        Don't just use linseed oil. Try boiled linseed oil. Cut it 3 to 1 with turpentine. If you can find Jap Drier, put in just a tiny drop. Using this formula, I have refinished many stocks. The turpentine prevents a sticky stock and the Jap Drier cuts down the dry time. I have used pumice-free handcleaner the clean the stocks with little sanding. My results have been excellent.

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          #5
          All of the custom combinations and "add a touch of this" are nice, and may produce a good finish with less work than the original formula.....

          I just answered the actual question about what to use "to make it as close to the original finish as possible". The manual says linseed oil. The amount of work the soldier had to do to have a satisfactory finish wasn't a concern of the officer in charge. That was up to the soldier to provide.

          The manual says if too much linseed oil is used, and isn't rubbed in well enough, a sticky stock and a soiled uniform is the result. Yup, that's what you get, but the soldier's labor was free, so it was up to them to do it in the manner instructed, with the supplies provided.

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            #6
            Tung Oil and Linseed Oil

            Both of the above are varnishes. Boiled linseed oil will dry faster than raw linseed oil. Rifles are finished with tung oil at the factory, usually 2 coats. Tung oil is harder to use---you MUST use mineral spirits or the like for clean up and you MUST apply it in very thin coats. It takes solvent to remove it (paint remover or mineral spirits or the like).
            Linseed oil is used by the troops after issue. It will clean up with soap and water. You can put on a lot and it will usually sink in; if not it can be cleaned/scrubbed off with hot soap and water and a light finish coat added.
            In restoration work, if you have stains on the stock which you have carefully taken out, linseed oil usually will make them visible again; tung oil will not!
            If restoring a rifle, use one or two very light coats of tung oil, allowing plenty of time to dry---if it is tacky, do not put on a second coat! This will seal the wood. After that, you can apply linseed oil.

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