help a novice use ren wax

[larry dean]

having read "avoiding runner marks and cleaning sa daggers" and now having the little jar in hand, what do i do with it? put it on & leave it on or wipe it off? put it on blade only or wood grips also, how bout leather grips? how bout anodized scabbards? thank u in advance for a few helpful words

[jancz3rt]

Hmm

Hey, apply a thin coat of RenWax with a soft cloth and let it dry for a minute or so. After it dries up a bit, polish it up with a soft cloth again. Feel free to apply it on all metal surfaces. I personally avoid leather and other materials. However, based on the documentation I have with RenWax, it can also be used on leather, on paper items and so on. The magic in RenWax is to avoid corrosion and exposure to humidity/fingerprints/acids and dust which all could cause damage to the piece.

JAN

[pvluger]

I mainly concentrate my application on the blade, but have put a little on the wooden handles of political daggers. I avoid the crossguard, eagles, and button as to not damage their patina.

[SwordFish]

Let me add a few critical points, I discovered over the years.

1- RenWax contains a ptroleum distilate of some sort..it will remove delicate painted items. Case in point- attempting to ReWax an Imperial Japanese Army sake cup or sake bottle, WILL remove all the handpainted Kanji, etc. I know from experience.
2- Avoid leather..it needs to breath. I.e.- Luftwaffe fliegerschwert Morroccan blue grip and scabbard leather.
3- Wood is still up in the air. I personally choose to avoid waxing items like SA dagger grips. I would advise against doing so with SS or SAs, or other items which utilize exposed wood.

It's a great product with ALOT of applications. However, all chemical agents have their limitations. If unsure, ask a collector versed in RenWax first, or if you are intent on experimenting, choose a very small, inconspicuos spot to test the wax on.

As Jan stated, it works great on blades....crossgrained, nickel plated, etc. It's also generally safe to use on certain gilted items like lionhead hilts (a lionhead or dovehead typically won't require a coat of wax...just dust off the hilt assembly from time to time). I've used it on certain zinc badges and zinc alloy items to fend of the dreaded "zinc bug"..really should be called the "ZINC MONSTER"

[Scott A. Hess]

Where does one buy Renwax? Thanks in advance.

[Steve T]

Where does one buy Renwax? Thanks in advance.

Do a web search for its correct name 'Renaissance Wax' and you will find lots of on-line stockists.

[Scott A. Hess]

Found it, thanks.

[12thPanzer]

Some people say not to use it on leather.....but I use it on my bayonet frogs and it actually softened one of the drier ones up nicely. It did leave the leather looking slightly darker to be fully honest, but it protects it and looks alot better IMO. You'll get the hang of it tho, you can literally put it on anything really. It gets humid in the summer where I live, so I use it for that main purpose

[Niblet]

Yes do not apply to luft 1st model dagger
or sword morracan leather use
Pecards for this they make an excellent product

[Larry Lipps]

Guys, I've never used Ren Wax but I might give it a try. My question is does it cause problems if it gets in the blade motto the way semichrome does.

[Eric Von Rader]

Guys, I've never used Ren Wax but I might give it a try. My question is does it cause problems if it gets in the blade motto the way semichrome does.

No, as Ren Wax is non abrasive, and I have never seen it mess up a dark motto. It is a petroleum based material, I can't imagine it would be good for leather as any petro product will destroy leathers or rubber over time.