Crossgraining is a huge issue. I've seen many a daggers crossgraining hammered by use of buffing agents like Semichrome.
Sabers on the other hand, Armys more specifically, have a hi-luster nickel plated blade. A light buffing with soft rag followed up with a good coat of hiquality museum graded wax is not a problem. No crossgraining to damage. The same holds true for many parade bayo 98Ks.
Preservations vs. cleaning is a touchy subject. There are quite a few members who perform cosmetic cleanings, and also know what they are doing. A newer, less experienced collector should avoid a cleaning without first communicating with an experienced collector who will give them some insight and techniques to work with. I had added a decent ASSO heer dagger a number of months ago. She was rough looking, however not damaged. As such, she was inexpensieve. I knew getting into it she would require hours of work. Upon receiving it, I had to disassembly the dagger, to ascertain the actual level of damaging oxidation. After exploratory measures, I determined the piece was still a good, viable piece with no real damage. She did however have alot of rust and oxidation on the inside and outside. I can honestly say that this dagger required me to pull out all the stops. I knew afterward, there would be no patina or age left. That was a trade off, for if left in it's current state, the dagger eventually would be destroyed and be beyond the point of recovery. After a few days of work, careful work mind you, with all the tools in the chest, the piece turned out to be a beautiful example. I chose not to repatina her using artificially induced meathods, and was happy with her looking like she just rolled of the assembly line at the ASSO factory. I documented the transition from begginning to end through photographs. In the case of this ASSO, it was not elective cleaning or buffing. It was medically required for ressucitation.
Also...patina is nice, but not a super-critical factor. Removed patina can be artificially induced, or will repatina over time. The issue is true, permanent alterations. Damaged crossgraining will not heal. Care must always be excercised. Also, sabers, daggers, degens, etc., all are different, as are collectors taste. For perspective, I only clean daggers inside and out which need medical repair to prevent further damage from oxidation, rust etc. I like my daggers aged. Heer sabers on the other hand, are entirely different. A clean, shiny saber with most of her gilt will always command higher dollar on the market. There are various schools of thought, and the topic becomes too long to discuss here. I always apply various preservation and cleaning technique to sabers I add. I have many many sabers, and have honed the technique over about 10 years with open communication with my saber collector brethren. What works, what doesn't, etc. We share info about what works, and what doesn't and I am confident my technique is a sound one. Some casual saber collectors have expressed contentment with the technique I use. My technique is very similiar to what other dedicated saber guys use. The best of all worlds and a combination of a couple hundred years of saber collecting experience.
Sabers on the other hand, Armys more specifically, have a hi-luster nickel plated blade. A light buffing with soft rag followed up with a good coat of hiquality museum graded wax is not a problem. No crossgraining to damage. The same holds true for many parade bayo 98Ks.
Preservations vs. cleaning is a touchy subject. There are quite a few members who perform cosmetic cleanings, and also know what they are doing. A newer, less experienced collector should avoid a cleaning without first communicating with an experienced collector who will give them some insight and techniques to work with. I had added a decent ASSO heer dagger a number of months ago. She was rough looking, however not damaged. As such, she was inexpensieve. I knew getting into it she would require hours of work. Upon receiving it, I had to disassembly the dagger, to ascertain the actual level of damaging oxidation. After exploratory measures, I determined the piece was still a good, viable piece with no real damage. She did however have alot of rust and oxidation on the inside and outside. I can honestly say that this dagger required me to pull out all the stops. I knew afterward, there would be no patina or age left. That was a trade off, for if left in it's current state, the dagger eventually would be destroyed and be beyond the point of recovery. After a few days of work, careful work mind you, with all the tools in the chest, the piece turned out to be a beautiful example. I chose not to repatina her using artificially induced meathods, and was happy with her looking like she just rolled of the assembly line at the ASSO factory. I documented the transition from begginning to end through photographs. In the case of this ASSO, it was not elective cleaning or buffing. It was medically required for ressucitation.
Also...patina is nice, but not a super-critical factor. Removed patina can be artificially induced, or will repatina over time. The issue is true, permanent alterations. Damaged crossgraining will not heal. Care must always be excercised. Also, sabers, daggers, degens, etc., all are different, as are collectors taste. For perspective, I only clean daggers inside and out which need medical repair to prevent further damage from oxidation, rust etc. I like my daggers aged. Heer sabers on the other hand, are entirely different. A clean, shiny saber with most of her gilt will always command higher dollar on the market. There are various schools of thought, and the topic becomes too long to discuss here. I always apply various preservation and cleaning technique to sabers I add. I have many many sabers, and have honed the technique over about 10 years with open communication with my saber collector brethren. What works, what doesn't, etc. We share info about what works, and what doesn't and I am confident my technique is a sound one. Some casual saber collectors have expressed contentment with the technique I use. My technique is very similiar to what other dedicated saber guys use. The best of all worlds and a combination of a couple hundred years of saber collecting experience.
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