Storage & Display Tip

[SwordFish]

I know there has been some discussion about storage in or out of the scabbard, wax vs. oil preservation, etc.

For some newer collectors of blades, I thought I would put this idea out there and share a little personal experience.

I store my blades, swords, daggers, etc., out of thier scabbards. There is a laundry list of reasons why which I don't want to go into. If someone is interested in knowing my rationale, feel free to contact me via PM or email at ww2collecting@hotmail.com and i'll share my reasons.

I do however apply a coat of Renwax museum grade wax every couple of years. For all my edged weapons, I use Bill Shea's sword/dagger display stands. This isn't a plug for his site, but he is the one who sells the best display stands. They are a clear, acrylic material, store both the scabbard and dagger/sword, and are quite aesthetically appealing for display. I typically put the display stands in some type of display case to mitigate dust acculuation. A monthly wipe down with a clean, soft rag will keep them free of dust.

At anyrate, here is a photo of some of my daggers on display. Not the best photos, but they illustrate what i'm speaking of. Check his site if interestes. Available in 1, 2, 3, 5 or 7 dagger/sword stands. I've seen a few on eBay, but they don't appear to have the same quality.

Good luck and keep on keepin' on.


Im removing alot of my photos for security purposes.

[SwordFish]

You'll see a few daggers/bayos stored on the bottom of the shelf. I don't advocate storing them this way, but at the time, i'm still waiting for the adiditonal dagger stand. In this specific event, the blades were cleaned well, and a very good coat of wax applied. I inspected the runners and cleaned them to the best of my ability without disassembly to remove old oily build up and or dirt. Between clean runners and a good coat of wax on the blade, short term storage in the scabbard should not be a problem. However for long term storage and display, you want to keep them out of the scabbard.

Here is a side view of the display stand. From the pommel/scabbard mouth.

[jancz3rt]

Hey

Hi,

I am considering getting a couple of these for some of the nicest KS98 bayonets that I have. Would those fit these well? Great items you have there.. and I am not even talking about the swords you have :P

JAN

[SwordFish]

Hola Jan,
Thank you.

These would definitely work for 98s. They seem to work for everything. I even bought one fo the single sword stands for my T95, 1935 NCO gunto and it fits very well....and as you know, these Japanese swords are kinda' oddly shaped.

And as far as dress saber, fliegerschwerts, and degens go, I can't think of a better way to display them. The stands work incredibly well. I think anyone who buys them will be pleasantly surprised with how well they looks and how well they work.

****Something I should also add is that Bill has sales sometimes. He had a 20% sale a couple years back and he included the sword stands/dagger stands. Naturally I had to buy 2 7 sword stands. His sales don't happen very often but definitely worth keeping an eye open for.

Tom

[b_vanfossen]

Tom-

Great collection and than you for the tip.

I did want to ask about the clean runners you mentioned in the second post. How do you clean those? Pull the top scabbard fitting off?

Thanks,
Brian

[Paul R.]

I'm a museum conservator. I come across may different types of items and of course daggers and scabbards. I deal with things from the Bronze age to the mid 1700 including some WWII items. It is the policy of most US Museum conservators not to alter historic artifacts. In short don't remove history by polishing re blue, over waxing an item. Important things to remember never store blades in scabbards. Never use gun oil in any form on a blade. Never use uncle joe's back yard oil blend on any type of daggers peroid. Why would you spend thousands of dollars on dagger and apply a non reversable treatment on your daggers? As JR said before Polish is for cars not daggers. Yes there has been talk on this site and the conservation board about Ren Wax. Which is for blades only. Not handles, scabbards, throats ect. Ren Wax is 100% reversable without damage. You biggest enemy is dirty hands, oil, house enviroment, and humidity.
Remember they ain't making any more of this stuff Take care of it wisely. Paul

[SwordFish]

Brain-
Thanks. I used a great flashlight like a Streamlight Stinger, and long Q- tips. Luckily, the majority of the runners don't have residual oil. What we find is that somewhere along the way, somebody had oiled a blade. When someone oils the blade, it goes back in the scabbard, then the oil is transferred to the runners, then the whole enchihlada is ruined. The key is to remove any traces of oil. Once that is done, you'll get alot more mileage out of the runner. I've seen quite a few pieces that were oiled and stored as such, which trapped moisture and led to oxidations on blade spotting. Wax is clearly the only substance to use.

I think most collectors by now know to avoid oil so it's relatively redundant point .

[Stu W]

Message for Paul

Hi Paul,

I recall your saying in a previous thread that wood and leather need to breath so no Ren Wax on those items however can you advise why scabbards could not be waxed. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Stu

[WW2-Collector]

I use ren wax on my blades- I store my daggers just the way they where stored the previous 70 + years before I got them- in the scabbard. I have some blades close to stone mint. Tell me has any one considered when a blade is left out of the scabbard for a long period does his tend make the runners stiffer? As they will be resting together for a long period then when the blade is inserted it could make for some nasty runner marks? Just a theory? I figure if my daggers have survived this many years in the scabbard they will be fine for many years to come. So to each his own.

[bobcam1]

Hi Paul,

I recall your saying in a previous thread that wood and leather need to breath so no Ren Wax on those items however can you advise why scabbards could not be waxed. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Stu

Seeing as how they're metal, I wondered about that, as well.....

Bob.

[SwordFish]

A point to keep in mind about Heer saber scabbard runners. Typically they are made of a light wood. The wood is very susceptible to attracting moisture. I've come accross quite a few perm. damaged by oil soaking. They have a tendency to attract moisture from the air as well. Another reason to store blades outside of thier scabbards. As the wooden scabbards degrade, I suspect they produce biproducts from carbon decomposition which could probably ultimately damage the blade with oxidation spotting.

As far as Ren on scabbards, fittings, etc., I can't plausibly imagine why the product would be adverse to plated fittings, scabbards, etc. I just can't see why it be menacing to these pieces.

[WW2-Collector]

Paul R- At what frequency should the Ren Wax be applied to a blade I also do mine every 2 years. Should the old wax be removed before rewaxing?

[Paul R.]

Ren Wax is some what suspect of attracting fibers(loose fibers or lint from cottom cloth). Inside of display cases. Some people also do not wipe off the Ren Wax completely. Thus leaving behind a surface for things to stick to. If you were to apply the Wax to the scabbard I have see Ren Wax slightly discolor the anodise scabbards. I have also seen it in time soften old lead base paints on the mid to later painted scabbards. Why risk that? Yes ren wax is a very good product. I use it a lot, but like everything it has it's limations to. In the web site ad. The ad is selling the product not the long term possible side effects. The ad hails it as a cure for all. everything has limitations. I usually re apply fresh ren wax every 2-3 years and always use cotton gloves in handling artifacts. Most serious collects do not dis assemble our scabbards to do a throughly clean out the shell and runners. If you ren wax the interior wax will not allow a smooth friction free passing through the runners. Ren wax resist a bit. Paul

Remember the ain't making any more of this stuff. Take care of it.

[Paul R.]

Never use any thing to clean or seal leather. Leather needs to breath. Like human skin. Leather was once a living organ full of protiens, oils, ect. May times such cleaners attract moisture to the surface of leather and dosen't protect them at all. It can speed up leather deterioation. Again no body please don't take offence here. Leather cleaners, softeners Do Not Do Any Thing. It's like the industry of hand lotion. It will help for a brief moment, but that wrinkles reappear. None of us here on this site has 15 year old looking skin again when we maybe in our 30's 40's 50's. Right? Last time I look those wrinkles and dry spots on my skin keep getting deeper, and more of them. Sorry! We can not reverse time. For those that are interested go to the conservation area and search leather cleaners and softerns. I had posted on several threads. Paul

[b_vanfossen]

I'm a little worried now-

I went over my complete dagger with Ren Wax. I guess I will wipe it all down with a cloth again!

I'm also curious about the scabbard runners as I have been told (abd follow) keeping it unsheathed.

Brian