I put this together recently as I have received a number of inquiries from fellow collectors asking how to do this job. I hope it's easy to understand and follow and I hope it's of use to some of you saber collectors. Feel free to contact me if anything doesn't make sense or you need clarification.
Take care,
Tom
Dovehead Sword Grip Wire Replacement
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></O>
As a sword collector, I’ve had to replace grip wire on 3 dovehead Army sabers. It’s a relatively simple process that just takes some time and a little patience. I received a number of inquires from collectors regarding repair and replacement of grip wire.
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I know there are a variety of ways to do this, and mine is a culmination of information and advice from some associates who I would categorize as senior sword collectors. For me this method is the most simple.
<O></O>
I hope this is easy to understand and it finds itself of use to some of you.
<O></O>
To replace the grip wire on a typical dovehead style army saber, you must first obtain the replacement grip wire. It can be purchased at a jewelry store or an arts-and-crafts store. It can be purchase in either brass colored or whitish-silver aluminum, as originally found on different sabers. The wire is produced in a variety of gauges. You will need to choose which 2 sized wire you will need for your project, depending on the size of your original grip wire. I typically use 24 gauge wire as the thick wire and 30 gauge wire as the thin wire. You will need a spool of the thicker wire and a spool of the thinner wire to complete this project. One spool will be used to create the twisted center portion of the grip wire, while the other (the thicker) will be used as the wire you see on each side of the double stranded twisted wire.
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To create your replacement grip wire, you need to cut 2 equal length portions of the thicker gauge replacement wire. Next, cut 2 equal lengths of the thinner gauge replacement wire. All 4 wire sections should be about the same length. Again, the thinner wire will be used to create the twisted double strand wiring. To accomplish an evenly twisted wire, I recommend using a power drill. Take the two pieces of thin wire, crimp one end and place it in a vice. Next, crimp the other end and place it inside your drill, in place of the drill bit. Use a slow speed setting on your drill and begin to twist the wire utilizing the drills power. Be sure to keep the wire taught while creating the double stranded wire. BE SURE TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION TO MITIGATE THE RISK OF EYE INJURY FROM BREAKING WIRE UNDER PRESSUR. After you have twisted the wire to your desired level, remove one end from the vice and the other from the drill. It should hold itself in shape without unwinding. Now you should have 3 individual sections of grip wire. 2 thick pieces, and 1 piece of double stranded twisted wire. All should be just about the same length.
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Next, remove the backstrap retraining nails from your saber hilt. Do this slowly and carefully to avoid damaging your hilt and grip. Once the grip nails are removed, your backstrap should be able to be lifted from the hilt assembly. MAKE A NOTE OF WHICH NAIL WAS WHICH. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REPLACE THE NAILS IN THE SAME HOLE FROM WHICH THEY CAME. Once the backstrap is removed, you should be able to access both ends of the original grip wire. Typically, each end of the original grip wire is retained by a very small wooden peg. Remove these wooden pegs. Generally, you will not be able to reuse the original wire retaining peg as the age has caused them to degrade. You will be replacing these along the way. Once the wire retaining pegs are removed, you should be able to remove the original grip wire from the saber. DO NOT REMOVE THE D-GUARD FROM THE HILT ASSEMBLY. THE D-GUARD IS USUALLY PEEND ONTO THE BLADE TANG. LEAVE THIS ALONE. YOU CAN EFFECT A WIRE CHANGE WITHOUT REMOVING THE D-GUARD.
<O></O>
Once the original wire has been removed you can begin to apply the new grip wire. Start with one of the thick strands. I typically start at the bottom grip wire hole located at the base of grip. It is located on the back-side of the grip, which would otherwise be covered by the backstrap. Insert the thick strand into the bottom hole and begin wrapping the wire around the grip, carefully following the molded grip wire indentions. Be sure to apply pressure so the grip wire is tight. Once you reach the top, do not insert the end into the top hole. Next, grab your piece of double stranded grip wire and insert one end into the bottom hole where your first piece of wire is already inserted. Follow the directions that were used for wrapping the first piece of thick single stranded wire. Again, do not insert the other end into the top grip wire hole. Lastly, insert your last piece of the grip wire into the bottom hole and wrap the wire around the grip. BE SURE THAT THE GRIP WIRE IS REPLACED IN THIS DIRECTION: FIRST THICK PIECE IS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PREMOLDED GRIP WIRE INDETION. 2<SUP>ND</SUP> PIECE, BEING THE DOUBLE STRANDED WIRE IS LAYERED NEXT. THE THIRDAND LAST PIECE WHICH IS YOUR OTHER THICK GAUGED PIECE SHOULD BE LAYERED ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DOUBLE STRANDED WIRE. Remember, you are trying to mimic what the original wiring looked like.
<O></O>
After you have wrapped all 3 sections of grip wire around the grip, ensure it fits snugly fit into the molded grip wire indentions. Next, you need to estimate where to cut the top portion of the 3 sections of grip wire for insertion into the top grip wire retention hole. After you have affected the cut, insert the 3 strands into the top grip wire hole. Be sure the grip wire is still snugly wrapped around the grip and all the sections are still aligned properly and are still seated within the molded grip wire indentions.
<O></O>
Now you’ll need to create new grip wire retaining pegs if the originals are un-useable. I have used the pointed end of wooden shish kabobs. Certainly, you can be creative and find a number of other means of creating these pegs. I typically will cut a 1/2 inch section of wooden shish kabob, then insert the pointed end into the grip wire retaining holes. Using a hammer, lightly tap the newly created peg into the hole to ensure that it will satisfactorily retain your grip wire. Then, with wire cutters or tin snips, cut off the excess portion of the newly created peg that is should be sticking out of the grip wire retaining hole. Be sure to cut the newly created peg down so it is just about flush with the grip wire retaining hole or else your backstrap will not seat properly.
<O></O>
Assuming you are happy with how the grip wire turned out, and assuming it is snugly in place and the 3 strands are aligned properly, you can put your backstrap back on the saber hilt. After you have put your backstrap back on the saber hilt, reinsert the backstrap nails. Lightly tap them into place with a hammer.
<O></O>
The project is now complete
Take care,
Tom
Dovehead Sword Grip Wire Replacement
<O
></O>As a sword collector, I’ve had to replace grip wire on 3 dovehead Army sabers. It’s a relatively simple process that just takes some time and a little patience. I received a number of inquires from collectors regarding repair and replacement of grip wire.
<O
></O>I know there are a variety of ways to do this, and mine is a culmination of information and advice from some associates who I would categorize as senior sword collectors. For me this method is the most simple.
<O
></O>I hope this is easy to understand and it finds itself of use to some of you.
<O
></O>To replace the grip wire on a typical dovehead style army saber, you must first obtain the replacement grip wire. It can be purchased at a jewelry store or an arts-and-crafts store. It can be purchase in either brass colored or whitish-silver aluminum, as originally found on different sabers. The wire is produced in a variety of gauges. You will need to choose which 2 sized wire you will need for your project, depending on the size of your original grip wire. I typically use 24 gauge wire as the thick wire and 30 gauge wire as the thin wire. You will need a spool of the thicker wire and a spool of the thinner wire to complete this project. One spool will be used to create the twisted center portion of the grip wire, while the other (the thicker) will be used as the wire you see on each side of the double stranded twisted wire.
<O
></O>To create your replacement grip wire, you need to cut 2 equal length portions of the thicker gauge replacement wire. Next, cut 2 equal lengths of the thinner gauge replacement wire. All 4 wire sections should be about the same length. Again, the thinner wire will be used to create the twisted double strand wiring. To accomplish an evenly twisted wire, I recommend using a power drill. Take the two pieces of thin wire, crimp one end and place it in a vice. Next, crimp the other end and place it inside your drill, in place of the drill bit. Use a slow speed setting on your drill and begin to twist the wire utilizing the drills power. Be sure to keep the wire taught while creating the double stranded wire. BE SURE TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION TO MITIGATE THE RISK OF EYE INJURY FROM BREAKING WIRE UNDER PRESSUR. After you have twisted the wire to your desired level, remove one end from the vice and the other from the drill. It should hold itself in shape without unwinding. Now you should have 3 individual sections of grip wire. 2 thick pieces, and 1 piece of double stranded twisted wire. All should be just about the same length.
<O
></O>Next, remove the backstrap retraining nails from your saber hilt. Do this slowly and carefully to avoid damaging your hilt and grip. Once the grip nails are removed, your backstrap should be able to be lifted from the hilt assembly. MAKE A NOTE OF WHICH NAIL WAS WHICH. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REPLACE THE NAILS IN THE SAME HOLE FROM WHICH THEY CAME. Once the backstrap is removed, you should be able to access both ends of the original grip wire. Typically, each end of the original grip wire is retained by a very small wooden peg. Remove these wooden pegs. Generally, you will not be able to reuse the original wire retaining peg as the age has caused them to degrade. You will be replacing these along the way. Once the wire retaining pegs are removed, you should be able to remove the original grip wire from the saber. DO NOT REMOVE THE D-GUARD FROM THE HILT ASSEMBLY. THE D-GUARD IS USUALLY PEEND ONTO THE BLADE TANG. LEAVE THIS ALONE. YOU CAN EFFECT A WIRE CHANGE WITHOUT REMOVING THE D-GUARD.
<O
></O>Once the original wire has been removed you can begin to apply the new grip wire. Start with one of the thick strands. I typically start at the bottom grip wire hole located at the base of grip. It is located on the back-side of the grip, which would otherwise be covered by the backstrap. Insert the thick strand into the bottom hole and begin wrapping the wire around the grip, carefully following the molded grip wire indentions. Be sure to apply pressure so the grip wire is tight. Once you reach the top, do not insert the end into the top hole. Next, grab your piece of double stranded grip wire and insert one end into the bottom hole where your first piece of wire is already inserted. Follow the directions that were used for wrapping the first piece of thick single stranded wire. Again, do not insert the other end into the top grip wire hole. Lastly, insert your last piece of the grip wire into the bottom hole and wrap the wire around the grip. BE SURE THAT THE GRIP WIRE IS REPLACED IN THIS DIRECTION: FIRST THICK PIECE IS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PREMOLDED GRIP WIRE INDETION. 2<SUP>ND</SUP> PIECE, BEING THE DOUBLE STRANDED WIRE IS LAYERED NEXT. THE THIRDAND LAST PIECE WHICH IS YOUR OTHER THICK GAUGED PIECE SHOULD BE LAYERED ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DOUBLE STRANDED WIRE. Remember, you are trying to mimic what the original wiring looked like.
<O
></O>After you have wrapped all 3 sections of grip wire around the grip, ensure it fits snugly fit into the molded grip wire indentions. Next, you need to estimate where to cut the top portion of the 3 sections of grip wire for insertion into the top grip wire retention hole. After you have affected the cut, insert the 3 strands into the top grip wire hole. Be sure the grip wire is still snugly wrapped around the grip and all the sections are still aligned properly and are still seated within the molded grip wire indentions.
<O
></O>Now you’ll need to create new grip wire retaining pegs if the originals are un-useable. I have used the pointed end of wooden shish kabobs. Certainly, you can be creative and find a number of other means of creating these pegs. I typically will cut a 1/2 inch section of wooden shish kabob, then insert the pointed end into the grip wire retaining holes. Using a hammer, lightly tap the newly created peg into the hole to ensure that it will satisfactorily retain your grip wire. Then, with wire cutters or tin snips, cut off the excess portion of the newly created peg that is should be sticking out of the grip wire retaining hole. Be sure to cut the newly created peg down so it is just about flush with the grip wire retaining hole or else your backstrap will not seat properly.
<O
></O>Assuming you are happy with how the grip wire turned out, and assuming it is snugly in place and the 3 strands are aligned properly, you can put your backstrap back on the saber hilt. After you have put your backstrap back on the saber hilt, reinsert the backstrap nails. Lightly tap them into place with a hammer.
<O
></O>The project is now complete
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