David Hiorth

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What is the best solution to protect blades

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    #46
    One benefit of using CP-90 is that it can prevent undercutting of coatings.

    What this means is that corrosion is an active process, and the result of the process is that the rust you see is the spent energy. Undercutting is the corrosion process causing the coating to lift as the corrosion pushes the coating away from the metal surface.

    Active undercutting of the coating is where bubbles appear first, then the flaking occurs, or the lifting of the coating.

    CP-90 will work its way through the coating, and halt the process without damage to the coatings used on 3rd Reich scabbards. I would not use CP-90 on scabbards that are leather bound, only coated types. If a scabbard is anodized, usually these are clear coated, but over time, this coating wears away from wearing of the dagger first, and then from the activities associated with handling if careless handling occurs. Anodized scabbards will benefit as well, specially those that show active corrosion problems.

    If you have a scabbard that looks like it is fresh from the factory, IE, unissued, the benefit of use of CP-90 is that between the scabbard fittings and shell, crevice corrosion will be held at bay, IF you are in an area where you suspect that corrosion is an issue to begin with.

    Not sure about the cadmium you wrote of Sal, as the product I have in inventory shows no report on the label of concern. Nor has the manufacturer advised of an issue there. I will talk with them this upcoming week to see what is up on that.

    I would not try to remove any of the red oxide associated with the corrosion, or pitting for that fact on the blade (grey spots on the blade are actually pitting corroison) as trying to do anything to clean up the metals may devalue the item. Work to preserve it is the best way to go.

    Honolulu Rich

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      #47
      Thanks Rich,
      I was waiting for your word on the subject! Don't bother with the cadmium problem, I confused 2 labels. The cadmium warning was on a different product called evapo rust. Don't worry, I'm not using it on my blades, as a matter of fact I wanted to know if you knew of this product. They claim it takes off the rust and only the rust on all metals and not paint etc. They warn against using it on cad plated objects though. What do you think of this stuff, and what about this stuff on blades?

      Now on the CP-90 I want to be sure I have this right,... I have a 2nd pattern luft dagger and the scabbard of that one has the light film of powdery rust on it and also the spot on the blade. I was going to rub the dusty rust off, which I think I could do without any cleaners. Then I was going to put CP-90 on it and let it sit for 48 hours and then wipe it off. If I dont clean the deeper rust spot on the blade and put CP-90 on the blade will this still prevent that rust spot from getting worse?

      On my early SA dagger there is no rust, and the brown anodized scabbard is beautiful. I want it to stay that way, and here by the beach the salt air rusts everything. It is safe to put the CP-90 on tyhe anodized scabbard correct? Is it nescasary? The anodizing in my mind is not much of a rust barrier. If I remember correctly On the SA blade I should keep it out of the engraved motto for fear of it removing the black in the letters,...correct?

      Lastly, I assume I could use it on the bumper of my very cool 71 riviera who's bumper is starting not to like the salt air. How could I undercoat my whole car with it? I have a spray gun, could I just sprasy the whole bottom of the car with it? Would it damage rubber parts or any wireing?

      Thanks Rich and sorry for the barrage of questions I'm just being super cautious.

      Best, Sal

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        #48
        Would CP-90 also be good to protect EK's?

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          #49
          Sal,

          Regarding the evaporust, what is the contents of the material? If you can, and they show an 1-800 number to call, call them and ask for a MSDS. That will tell you what the product is all about.

          The luft dagger that has the powdery film of rust, you can apply CP-90 directly to that, and allow it to sit for 48 hours. After that period, simply wipe with a soft cloth. The deeper rust spot will not get bigger, but be surte to apply CP-90 at least once a year.

          On the anodized SA scabbard, you can apply direcly to the scabbard and all fittings on the scabbard. To have peace of mind, test a small area on the back of the scabbard, and you will see that the andodization will seem to darken, if the clear coat is not over the anodization. The CP-90 should not harm the anodization, as I have used this on items from Lugers, to daggers, helmets, ciphers on uniforms (if you are to do this on uniforms, advise, as there is a way to treat these items without getting CP-90 on the uniforms). For the black on the letters on the blade engraving, CP-90 will not remove that either.

          Again, anything that you think might be a problem, testing a minute area will tell you what this stuff will do. Remeber, there are no caustic chemicals in this stuff, and it is meant to fight corrosion, nothing else.

          Yes, your Buick Riviera will benefit from CarWell, as this is what the product was designed for. The folks at CarWell sell a application system called Tri-Con. Call them at 1-800-856-6798, and Barb should be the one that answers the phone. Advise her Rich from Hawaii said to call if you do call. Ask for their price on this system. The Tri-con connects to an airhose (you'll need compressed air), and at 35 to 40 PSI, you can spray the complete car, including interior door areas too. It will take about 1/2 gallon to do the job. Even radiators will not corrode out, and UPS has proven that one. The rubber parts won't be damaged, and the wiring will stop the greening so often seen on witing on older cars and equipment.

          Don't worry about the questions, ask them, as thta is the only way you can learn about corrosion control.

          Rich

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            #50
            Hi Curt,

            CP-90 will protect the Iron Cross as well. Use a q-tip to apply, allow the product to sit, and dab with a new q-tip to remove any excess after the set time of about 48 hours. In a few weeks, the gloss look will settle, and the coated interior will return to its normal look, and the corrosion or rust problem will be held at bay. You'll get about a year or so out of the performance, then apply again.

            Some people might see longer performance, as exposure to sunlight, weather, humidity are also factors in how long CarWell CP-90 lasts.

            My handguns get treated about once every 18 months, if I do not fire them. If I do use them, I use CP-90 as a cleaner as well as a protectant and have done so for almost 10 years with good success.

            Rich

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