Question about cleaning dagger blade?

[Ssteve]

Hello,
I've read some past threads on cleaning dagger blades. It seems that the general consensus is to use simichrome. I have a Heer dagger that I lightly cleaned with simichrome and though the simichrome removed a lot of tarnish there still are spots of tarnish.

I was wondering do I just keep rubbing the blade with simichrome until it's all removed or is some of the tarnish simply there forever and can't be removed no matter how many times I rub it with simichrome. I've attached a photo of some of the remaining tarnish. Any help / opinions are appreciated.
Warm regards,
Steve

[Larry Lipps]

Steve, even semichrome can be abrasive if overused. If a resonable amount effort didn't remove the tarnish, I'd not continue to press the issue.

[Tiger 1]

Steve,

Simichrome is mildly abrasive. It is basically rare earth in an oil suspension. This same mineral is used in the glass trade to final polish glass. An extremely fine abrasive, but abrasive nonetheless.

A note about carbon steel blades. Carbon steel is produced when carbon is alloyed with iron to form steel. Carbon steel is a basic alloy and does not contain chromium of at least 14% and there for is not stainless. Carbon steel will eventually 'grey out' as it ages and also as it is exposed to atmosheric pollution. The 'greying out' is caused by the carbon in the steel alloy that wasn't completely melded into a pure alloy. Sometimes this greying an be caused by some slag inbedded during the forging process. When the forged blade blank was intially ground and finely polished these imperfections were not noticable to the eye. In other words the product was acceptable for that time and place.

Fast forward 60+ years and the carbon blade begins to show its age. Even on blades that have been well cared for will show some evidence of this aging.

After simichrome polishing carefully clean off the residue and look at the surface of the blade. You will see that the discolored or greying areas that have been cleaned will show a slight pitting or frosting. This is an indication that the aging is more than just on the surface. Without removing enough surface metal to get below these pits they will continue to show. If you remove that much metal you have changed the original surface of the blade forever.

Just some thoughts.

Tony

[kris simoens]

You can use a number 0 pencil (soft carbon) to rub the dark spots. It won't completely make the spots dissapear but they will be a lot less visible.

Kris.

[Ssteve]

Gentleman, I just want to thank you guys for your time and your helpful responses. I really count of people like you when I run across areas of collecting I know little/nothing about.

I must say my Heer Dagger is my first one and I think I'm getting an itch. Any suggestions on a book on German Daggers (i.e. one that compairs originals / fakes, care, price guide, pictures, etc)?
Thanks again,
Steve

[David C]

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http://www.johnsonreferencebooks.com...oks/index.html

http://www.wwiidaggers.com/REFTTW.htm


.

[Ssteve]

Bayonet Question?

Hello,
I just picked this Bayonet up from a WWII Veteran. It is maker marked Original Eickhorn Solimger? I was wondering if this belonged to a specific German organization. Also, I hate asking this question any idea on value?

I guess the main reason I ask is that I recently placed a newspaper add inquiring about buying items brought back from WWII veterans. Well, the responses have been overwelming and I've been buying all types of items left and right that I know little about and I need to turn some items over to get some of my money back. Anyhow, any help would be great.
Thanks,
Steve

[Frentebro]

Typical private purchase walking-out bayonet. Condition is especially important with these.

Where do you live, Steve??? When i lived in Eastern CT i put an ad in the paper & got one whole response, & nothing good! (I'm trying again in Mass.)