M41 Tropical Hat Improvement Advice

[DaveG]

I just picked up a nice Tropical M41 cap from the estate of a 64th Fighter Wing vet. It had been packed at the bottom of a trunk for over 60 years and the body of the hat is wrinkled as a result. The only method I can think of for getting rid of the resultant creases and wrinkles is to steam them out. Any unexpected and/or undesirable consequences that might come of this method? Is there a better method?

The hat has been worn and the red interior faded at the point of contact with the head. Can't quite make out the maker - "Georg" something or other, size 57 and a 1942 date. The family kept his other effects but didn't want the hat.

Thanks,

Dave

[Mark Gibson]

Hi Dave,
I suppose steaming would probably work but I would personally just sit it in it's natural state and leave it. I've seen some tropical caps which have been heavily crushed pop back into shape after being sat in a display case with a bit of support. They are very sturdy caps. If you don't have anything to place under the cap try using a cd/dvd spindle, they are perfect.
Looking forward to seeing some pics soon.

Mark

[davidSW]

Hi

Rather than using hot steam i would suggest cold water untill its wet and put it in its natural state and better still fill it out with something so it pushes out the crease as it dries.

Steam in would damage the item in my opinion

[BenVK]

If it's totaly crushed and creased, I would wet it thoroughly with cold water. Don't let it soak, just immerse it for a short while and take it out. Then, pack it with a clean white towel or cloth and let it dry naturaly. Any old grim and stains will still be there, that's what you want, but the cap will regain it's shape.

[DaveG]

Thanks for all the good advice. I currently have it sitting on a wooden hat form. It's not forced on the form so the threads won't be put under stress. I'll try some of the "dry" methods before attempting any of the "damp" methods.

Best Regards,

Dave

[John Huff]

The red dye of the lining seems to have a tendency to bleed when wet. I'd first try to block it out for several months and see what happens.

[BenVK]

Good point John, I forgot about the red lining.

[Mark Gibson]

My biggest concern with steaming, which I didn't even mention previously, is the worry that it may inadvertently 'clean' the cap. As for the cold water, I hadn't thought of that. Not a bad idea, especially if you just spray the outside with cold water whilst leaving it on the hat form. Before it has completely dried, spray it again and repeat this a few times. Perhaps this might assist it to take shape.

Mark

[90th Light]

The red dye of the lining seems to have a tendency to bleed when wet. I'd first try to block it out for several months and see what happens.

Hello John, have you had this happen ? ie the red lining dye of a DAK cap run and soak through the olive twill ? If so which maker was it ?

Certainly wetting the the cap completely in cold water but not letting it soak is the best way. Once wet then pad the cap out with cloth like socks and shape on a hat block until holding its shape.

Next step is to iron out any resistant wrinkles but make sure you understand the settings on your iron and when to iron "dry", "wet" or using a "damp cloth".

Steaming should be used in extreme cases after other options have been tried. I would not recommend this but if you do then play around with some thing un-important and gain experience. Remember a steam burn is the worst kind of burn so if you want to stuff something quickly then steam some thing which should not be steamed.

All these treatments have risk of something going wrong but steaming is the highest risk.

If the dyes are not colour fast then you are in for a real mess. Some German manufacturers did not use colour fast dyes but it will be certain ones. On the whole many German dyes are colour fast. Again they lead the world in this technology but such dyes were more expensive at that time.

Good luck which one always needs with all restoring, Chris