OK, I am serious, an E Boat Badge and stick pin. Good or not

[JustinG]

Greetings,

Ok, Here is a set that I believe has a chance. Please give me your feedback.

Regards,
2dresq907

[JustinG]

Back

[JustinG]

Back again.

[JustinG]

Last one.

Please give me your responses.

Regards,
2dresq907

[VonStigler1]

Crap my friend, absolute crap. Keep posting your finds though, eventually you will find a good one.
Cheers,
Brian

[Jeff V]

Another turd. Perhaps it would be better for you to actually study what a real one looks like rather than throwing badge after badge on here hoping that one of them turns out to be an original. I promise you the best part of the hobby is learning about and studying the badges you would like to buy before making a purchase.
best wishes,
jeff

[JustinG]

Thanks,

Damn, I thought I had a good one. I appreciate the response.
Just for knowledge, What was a good tip off for this badge. Looking at the Lorenzo Brown and the John Robinson pages on WAF, I thought this had a chance.
I really am trying to better educate myself. I do appreciate everyone's help.

Slowly, but surely, i am learning.

Regards,
2dresq907

[Mike Kenny]

Begin with the reverse. This fake is easily detected because of the sharp scoop. There are many other problems to the trained eye as well.

Regards
Mike

[JustinG]

Just one person's opinion

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Mike. To my limited knowledge, there is not a specific publication dealing with the S-Boat.
I am trying my best to find out information. I am in the midst of trying to get my hands on John Angolia's Die Kriegsmarine volumes. I have some others by Chris Alsbey, Gordon Williamson, and Robin Lumdsen. I really am trying to do my research.

The funny thing is that the the Schwerin 68 oin the 2nd pattern seems to have a straight part to the upper loop of the 6, and the first doesn't. WHY? How is a new person to understand that the sharp scoop is a indication?

Is there a reference that I am missing? Because, I really do want to learn.

I apologize if I have been posting on this forum and "not doing research before posting every badge"

These are the purposes of these forums, to share our collections get advice, to share our expertise with fellow collectors; to have a chance at comradery and most important, Have fun!


I am a novice. I admit that. I appreciate everyone's responses.
This is how I learn, I gladly accept advice and would love to know some good reference material so I can "do my homework."


-2dresq907

[Mike Kenny]

Hi,

Yes, figuring out what's good from bad can be a challenge. These days, you'll find that online forums are the best places for learning though. There is no book that will cover everything and a 2D book format with limited imagery simply can not show everything you need to know about every subtle variation that may be found from a particular manufacturer of a particular badge. That has started to change, with Frank's GAB book being the first of the new generation of excellent references.

I learnt by first determining what a genuine badge looks like - which can be hard as many things are these days taken for granted as being original without most collectors being able to say WHY! A "grass roots" approach is required. I used a combination of old publications to get a start - knowning that no publication is perfect. The older the better. I also looked for veteran acquired - preferably German veteran acquired - items to learn from (knowning that there are problems with both areas).

Once you know what a genuine badge looks like - and there are plenty of examples on the forum which have been discussed and given the thumbs up by those who HAVE done the hard work - it then becomes a little bit scientific. It requires DIRECT (side-by-side) comparison IN DETAIL (an apples to apples comparison - not comparing different variants or patterns from the same, let alone different, manufacturers). The first thing I do is start with the reverse - looking at the hardware and any maker marks can help pick most fakes very quickly. Then I look at the reverse profile - EVERY lump and bump in the profile of a wreath or other protruding feature. Then I'll flip it over and compare obverse detail - every vein in the wreath, every porthole, every wave crest, every bead on an EK, whatever. I'll also take the finish into account (that comes with experience, handling badges and then knowing what "tricks" imagery can play) as well as the wear (which can remove genuine characteristics).

Not easy or quick, but that's the way to LEARN, as opposed to being spoon fed and not really having an idea about what's good or bad and having to trust someone else.

Regards
Mike

[Jody]

S-boot

Hello,
As everyone has stated the badge posted is a well known fake and is around 10 years old.

Study the reverse of my badge and you can see a night and day difference. You have to start looking for the subtle details.

Regards,
Jody

[Lubo]

1st pat.Schwerin

Hello guys,
2dresq907, that is a good angle (to compare (maybe not exactly)
Lubo B.

[Lubo]

1st pat.Schwerin

and the telltale lettering...

[Ludwig]

Not original!