Starting to collect EK1s

[blitzkrieg gsd]

Hello guys my collecting interest have brought me to the point of buying my first EK1. Of course I have been studying up on them over the last few months. But even with all I have learned I still fell like I have a long way to go. My plan is to buy my first one at this years SOS. That way I can hold them in hand and have a really good look at it. And I'm hoping to find a good deal and be sure I'm not getting burned. I'm that guy who brings my item to your table and ask you if it's a good one after I buy.

My questions to you guys is what do you think I should start with? One maker or the other a certain type how would you start? I'm looking for one with a been there look to it. Not quite ready for a mint example yet. I just like the look of one that has been worn. Also I was thinking about one that was cased. Do you guys think it's worth the extra money to buy a cased example? Also I'm not interested in a rare maker or type that would be much more expensive. So if you guys could give me some examples of witch ones to look for I would be very grateful. If any of you are planning on bring some to the show that would work for me I would like to hear about them. Thanks in advance for all your help looking forward to hearing your ideas.

[CMSgt]

Ek

Why wait until SOS, buy from e-stand where prices are cheaper. After having collected and watched EKs for a long time, I would recommend maker marked ones or specifically L/** ones as these are easier to sell if you want. Here is a website that 5Tefan put together on EKS and it is one of the best you will find (including books) http://www.ek1-dna.de/index.html. Also, do you want EKs with case or not? If the case is stamped with the makers mark that matches the EK then I would, if not I would collect only the EK. I hope this helps you. Jim

[Douglas 5]

Welcome to EKs ! Jim basicly summed it up . When in doubt just ask !

Douglas

[blitzkrieg gsd]

Thanks Jim for the link I'll take a look at it later. I figured I would wait till the show and that would give me a chance to pick from a few different ones hopefully. So you say I should go with any that's marked and better to have one of the L marked examples? Would you think the L marked ones will cost me a little more or be about the same as the most common ones? I understand a mint un issued piece would be more then a worn example. But I'm looking for a worn example that has the look of being worn in the war. As far as cased example goes yes that's really what I would like to have. You say I should make sure my case matchs my EK rite? Do most of the cased examples match the maker? Or is that something I should pay close attention to? Also what do you think the price range will be for a cased marked example in the condition I'm looking for?

[Jelle M.]

If i were you i would go for the more rare and desirable examples, easier to sell and in the long term a better investment.

[blitzkrieg gsd]

I understand what your saying night stalker but I'm looking for just a keeper rite now. Don't get me wrong I want pieces in my collection that will go up in value. Rite now though I'm just looking for my first one to display and hold onto. Now if I could find the rite deal on a rarer version that could make me a buck in the long run I would take it. I just don't know enough or feel comfortable enough to put the money into a investment quality piece at this time. Hope that makes since to you it's just my thinking. After I get this first one then I may go after a nicer one.

[CMSgt]

Ek

The L marked examples are harder to find, but will cost about the same as a marked example. The L/10, L/12, L/14, L/15 and L/50s will cost more than other examples as they are more desirable. I would start looking at dealers sites just to get an idea of the prices out there. Jim

[Martin Gödel]

EKs in general and EK1s in particular are very addictive and a very interesting (though not cheap) field of TR collecting. I would go first for marked items. In my humble opinion, those marked L/.... are not as attractive as those marked with number. The latter were given to the soldiers, whereas the former are replacement items (though, of course, perfectly genuine and war-time examples). You can buy of all types: number marked, L/... marked and, of course, unmarked too.
I prefer mint or near mint examples to the "been there" look, but this is up to you.
If not all, at least, you should get a boxed EK1. EK1 boxes are really, really nice if in good condition.
But before buying, read as much as you can, see pics... until you find those manufacturers that you like most. My favourite ones are Klein und Quenzer, W&L and Deumer. And remember that each EK is different!!!
Regards

[blitzkrieg gsd]

Martin are you telling me only EKs marked with a number only no "L" are the only ones originally issued to troops in field? The ones marked with "L" before the numbers are wartime replacement bought by troops? Please elaborate on this because that is something I didn't know about. But was defiantly the kind of info I was hoping you guys could fill me in on. Please if this is all basic stuff forgive me this is a new area of collecting to me so I'm learning. My thinking is now I want a original issued piece with a worn look. So I need to start looking for a number only marked example?

[sanya13]

Hí
the guys to say that was different marker
one within manufacturer
example
this is a
1.Deumer EK1 unmarked ,early ,vaulted with copper coating inner core.
2. the maker same,but marked mark number "3"
/The introduction of PKZ code at the end of 1942/
3.the maker Deumer with LDO marked mark (L/11)

the same manufacturer but different marking

[sanya13]

2.

[sanya13]

3.

[mp409mm]

Hi Sanya, thank you for posting, question is it normal/accepted to have part of the core with the date and the swat covered like the no 2 photo?
Alf.

[Martin Gödel]

Yes, blitzkrieg, those marked L/... were bought by those who were awarded the EK as a replacement. Many soldiers had more than one, maybe for different uniforms. The L/... number indicated that they were officially accepted by the Reich. As I told you, these are as genuine and original and war-time as those number marked.

Well, L/... marked ones are also very nice, but my first EK1 was number marked, a "65".

As sanya says, you can have a L/marked, a number marked and an unmarked example by the same manufacturer. In some cases, there are only number marked and unmarked, as happens with Keinz und Kleunzer crosses. As far as I know, the unmarked ones are early war items.

The swas may be seen as in pic 2 as a way to highlight it. Perfectly acceptable. Another sign of the "been there" look, I would say.

[blitzkrieg gsd]

Thank you for the pics of a couple very nice examples. Martin thanks for clearings that up for me. So now I'm looking for a numbered cased cross. Now will the box be marked with the same number that's on the cross? That is if it's the original box that it came in rite? That's what I'm wanting but in the condition of the more worn of the two below. What would you guys say is a good price range for what I say I'm looking for above? Do you think I could get one in the 250-300 range?

If possible could you guys post some pics of cased numbered cross where both case and cross are number marked.