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    #31
    Originally posted by Douglas 5 View Post
    Robert - remind me later : One of your W&Ls has a pointy 3 , would like to see that one .

    Douglas
    Out with my camera again.

    Robert

    EDIT: Here we are, a W&L with pointy '3'...
    Attached Files
    Last edited by robert pierce; 06-26-2010, 11:46 PM.

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      #32
      Do not worry Robert ... tomorrow is fine . I have some to send you anyway .

      Douglas

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        #33
        Originally posted by Douglas 5 View Post
        Do not worry Robert ... tomorrow is fine . I have some to send you anyway .

        Douglas
        It's OK...post 31 above.

        Robert

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          #34
          Thats quick ! Do you wear your camera in a should holster ?
          That is a full point 3 too !

          Douglas

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            #35
            Originally posted by Douglas 5 View Post
            Thats quick ! Do you wear your camera in a should holster ?
            That is a full point 3 too !

            Douglas
            Yeah, quick-draw-Magraw! No, it's a scanner. Don't say the word 'scanner' to Trevor. He hates scanners like snakes hate a cold December morning.

            Robert

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              #36
              Not to get too deap into this welding thing :
              The W&L EK2 has seaming ly 2 welding types . One side held well as the other side was only " globbed on " and most of it had broken off the other side befor frosting .
              On a side note - as a result of this chip - one can see the allignment /positioning ring mark for mounting the jump ring . Juncker does not have that .

              Douglas
              Attached Files

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                #37
                Well, I'm back. So, Robert, you stated the conclusion I was working towards already:

                Originally posted by robert pierce View Post
                Whoever manufactured these crosses, whether W&L or Juncker, had two (or more) reverse dies on hand.
                It's interesting to me since I used to use the shape of the reverse '3' as a guide to who made the core. No more, I guess.

                Robert, you said something else interesting:

                But, I think the common method in joining the frame halves together was one joint at a time. The silver or tombac was ductile enough to withstand the bending process in joining the halves over the core once the joints had cooled.
                Was tombac used for EK frames? I had always thought it was nickel-silver, which is a copper alloy, whereas tombac is a brass alloy. I thought EKs were in nickel-silver, and Spangen in tombac.

                Is there an easy test to determine what is tombac and what is nickel-silver?
                Best regards,
                Streptile

                Looking for ROUND BUTTON 1939 EK1 Spange cases (LDO or PKZ)

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                  #38
                  Welcome back Trevor,

                  I was referring to the jump ring being tombak, as so many of my Junckers are. Didn't we have this discussion in another thread recently, frames being made of brass or tombak at some period?

                  Robert

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                    #39
                    Usualy easy to see visually on the jump rings only : ... as long they are not plated - brass some times is Ni plated and only on the worn spots the brass may show through : one has copper tomback and the Ni alloy .
                    I would have to say most confusing/chalanging are the thick R3s and Juncker EK2s : cores from a few makers used in the same frame .
                    Frame normaly Ni -alloy , some had silver frames of different purity, and the 23 I have that is a Ni plated base metal of some sort .

                    Douglas

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by robert pierce View Post
                      Didn't we have this discussion in another thread recently, frames being made of brass or tombak at some period? Robert
                      Mmm, maybe. If so, I think I missed it. So how can you tell what material you're looking at?
                      Best regards,
                      Streptile

                      Looking for ROUND BUTTON 1939 EK1 Spange cases (LDO or PKZ)

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by streptile View Post
                        Mmm, maybe. If so, I think I missed it. So how can you tell what material you're looking at?
                        I'll have to do searching. I remember a discussion not too long ago regarding the use of brass or tombak in EK frame production. Altsilber and neusilber were the norm I agree.

                        Robert

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                          #42
                          ...http://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/foru...t=brass+frames

                          No conclusion was reached as to frames being made of tombak, but it's interesting to note that the exposed 'copper-colored metal' on my R3 has not turned green over all of these years (like one would think copper would).

                          Robert

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                            #43
                            Befor I head in a set up I did with Junckers :
                            1- Coin silver frame , 2- silver plated Ni-alloy , 3- high coper Ni-alloy frame - yellow/greenish hue patina and 4- late war zink core frame - low copper Ni-alloy with a brighter shiny/silvery surface and greyish patina ... just as guide .

                            Douglas
                            Attached Files

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                              #44
                              I've noticed on a Meybauer EKI I own an exposed greenish color on the frame, probably the copper alloy oxidation coming to the surface. Perhaps the copper content was higher in Meybauer's frames...?

                              Robert
                              Attached Files

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                                #45
                                Hi Trevor,

                                I was wondering who snatched it. This cross has been discussed see:

                                http://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/foru...d.php?t=427924

                                Check the small little mark in the center on the 1813 side.
                                The dealer didn't "upprice" it.. I wonder.


                                Best regards,
                                Michel

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