Early high quality EK 2 (Juncker?)

[meriksson]

Imo any L/12 or 2 whit W&L frames and typical rim shrink, date etc is made just to get more value. Have in mind a W&L EK2 is about 100-130 usd, and a Junker you have to pay 200-300usd just for the mark. I do have some W&L, and im temptet to test a sale whit a L/12 mark on one. It´s very easy to stamp it L/12.
Mikael

[George Stimson]

W&l?

Here's a close-up of the obverse center of the second example I posted. Note the cross-hatching of the beading.

[Paratrooper]

@Marcus

I am pleased that i could clarify the chaos a little.

Crosses are a science a science for themself like it's also with other badges (PAB, IAB,GAB and so on).
And the fact that the quality of the copies becomes better and better is the reason therefore I made the decision to concentrate my study of badges on iron crosses.

And thats the way we can win the battle between us collectors and the fakers.
In forums like this i know when i want to buy me for example an GAB i only must show a good picture here in the right section for having an opinion of really experts and if i can help anyone i make it.

The internet is our best wappon against fakes.

Thank you for making the scans.

Regards
Andreas

[Paratrooper]

Here's a close-up of the obverse center of the second example I posted. Note the cross-hatching of the beading.

Hello!

Thats it meriksson. It's a popular methode to mark unmarked "100" with L/12 for making money, but when you know this detail you can easy identify the copy.
When i want to buy me a special item i would allways inform me the best i can before leaving money.

And if you know the differences between W&L and Juncker (date and the cross hatching showed by George) and having both in you hands you will know what you have with an Juncker.

W&L crosses are very nice and they are one of my favorites, but a Juncker is a special kind of cross.

Therefore vou must much carefully when someone offers you a piece.
You are right. Fakers want to make money, but you have this place here that can make buying safer.

BTW: I bought my unmarked early piece on the top of this thread for only 55€ because the seller didn't know what he had.

Regard
Andreas

[meriksson]

Is there a rim shrink on that one George? I think i can see one, or is the glossy nice rim fooling me?
Mikael

Here's a close-up of the obverse center of the second example I posted. Note the cross-hatching of the beading.

[MH184]

I'm not sure if these will suffice, they're the best I'm cable of at the moment.

[MH184]

Send me you e mail Andreas and I'll send you larger scans which you can play with if you like.

[MH184]

This is a bugger to scan being on the dual medal bar.

[MH184]

L/12

[MH184]

Not as nice as Georges bars, but as requested the whole ensemble.

[George Stimson]

Mikael

"Is there a rim shrink on that one George? I think i can see one, or is the glossy nice rim fooling me?"

Actually, it does have a deformity of the rim at that spot, both on the obverse and the reverse. But I would say that it is slightly different than the shrink on a W&L. It's more like a split rim than a shrunken or squished one.

[meriksson]

Ok George!
My eyes are still ok!
Sorry to say imo Marcus that one you show is not a Junker!.
Mikael

[George Stimson]

How about this one?

[George Stimson]

Reverse.

[MH184]

Quote: Sorry to say imo Marcus that one you show is not a Junker!.

Hi Mikael,


Ok, can you you elaborate on your thoughts, in other words why ?


Kr

Marcus