Did i Floch up? ( Ek1 + Assault badge)

[ThePragmitist]

Hey I am new to the whole collecting thing, and probably jumped in a little too eagerly. I am still recovering from those 3rd degree burns.
Now i am wondering if these recent purchases are Fab or floched.
Assault badge (plated) Is up first. The Iron cross is a "15" marked EK1

[ThePragmitist]

Ek1 Non-Magnetic "15" marked

This is the EK1 (Marked 15) (There is no L)

[Gew44]

IMO is a good "15" Friedrich Orth - Wien.

Another one like your is here, discussed few days ago:

https://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/for....php?t=1037127

[Chet Sowersby]

I agree. A good example by Orth.

Chet

[ccfc]

Can’t comment on the GAB but the cross is good.

You can see the little dot flaw under the beading below the date

Regards

Lee

[ThePragmitist]

I saw your post)

Hey Gew43. Actually i saw your post. Its why i got worried. I am not yet familiar enough yet with variations between individual makers to be able to call it or not.
I saw yours has a different patina, different style of "15" And the "193"9" in your 1939 is not jammed up against the right hand edge like mine and your pin appears to be longer than my pin. Yet supposedly same maker. Is there any guide to working out what is normal variation within a single factory?

IMO is a good "15" Friedrich Orth - Wien.

Another one like your is here, discussed few days ago:

https://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/for....php?t=1037127

[ThePragmitist]

Note that the pin on my model does not extend beyond the edge.

Note in the picture that the pin does not extend beyond the edge of the EK in my example, as it appears to do in your example.

Hey Gew43. Actually i saw your post. Its why i got worried. I am not yet familiar enough yet with variations between individual makers to be able to call it or not.
I saw yours has a different patina, different style of "15" And the "193"9" in your 1939 is not jammed up against the right hand edge like mine and your pin appears to be longer than my pin. Yet supposedly same maker. Is there any guide to working out what is normal variation within a single factory?

[ThePragmitist]

Dot flaw?

Dot flaw under the date? You are referring to this maybe? Is this a sign of authenticity?

Can’t comment on the GAB but the cross is good.

You can see the little dot flaw under the beading below the date

Regards

Lee

[Gew44]

Hey Gew43. Actually i saw your post. Its why i got worried. I am not yet familiar enough yet with variations between individual makers to be able to call it or not.
I saw yours has a different patina, different style of "15" And the "193"9" in your 1939 is not jammed up against the right hand edge like mine and your pin appears to be longer than my pin. Yet supposedly same maker. Is there any guide to working out what is normal variation within a single factory?

Hello,
during the war the companies varied their production both for materials and for the type of rear setup.
There may be small variations in processing, they were assembled by hand and the human being is fallible and not perfect like machines.
Usually the core does not have big design variations, we talk about real productions, then there are collaborations / purchases of semi-finished products from other companies that create particular mixes.
There is no safe method if not to follow the Forums, buy books, visit museums, see other collections and a good photographic database.
Then try to focus on a particular or more particulars, each of us has its own, which allows you to distinguish that particular manufacturer and look for it in the crosses to distinguish the good from the fake and one manufacturer from the other.
It takes a bit of study and passion will do the rest.
It is my humble opinion
Good start and keep going.

[Gew44]

Dot flaw under the date? You are referring to this maybe? Is this a sign of authenticity?

Yes, It is a particular feature of this builder.

Each mold defect is unique, not reproducible, like a fingerprint.

[ThePragmitist]

Lucky L15

Thanks for the encouragement. Looks like i got lucky posting a L15 with an expert like you online.
I don't suppose you know anyone on this forum who might be able to help authenticate the Assault badge i posted up? I bought around 15 items from a particular seller, and so far approximately 7 of them have been definite fakes (some of them are not even good fakes) I will be returning these items, however i am not sure if the Assault badge should be returned or not. I am told that "R.S" medals are among the more commonly faked medals.

Hello,
during the war the companies varied their production both for materials and for the type of rear setup.
There may be small variations in processing, they were assembled by hand and the human being is fallible and not perfect like machines.
Usually the core does not have big design variations, we talk about real productions, then there are collaborations / purchases of semi-finished products from other companies that create particular mixes.
There is no safe method if not to follow the Forums, buy books, visit museums, see other collections and a good photographic database.
Then try to focus on a particular or more particulars, each of us has its own, which allows you to distinguish that particular manufacturer and look for it in the crosses to distinguish the good from the fake and one manufacturer from the other.
It takes a bit of study and passion will do the rest.
It is my humble opinion
Good start and keep going.

[TWS]

Post the GAB in the badge forum if you haven't already and you should get knowledgeable responses.
I don't like the appearance of the finish, but I am not one of the resident experts.

[Tony T-S]

Yes, straight to the next forum down for the Assault badge. You'll be asking if it's a good wartime Souval. They made postwar ones too, but I think they are all flat back. It may be postwar constructed from wartime parts. Also seems to be coated with a varnish. They'll know. Congrats on the nice Orth.

[Element7]

Nice cross and the the GAB is a nice original zink Rudolf Souval IMO. Nice finds!

There is no safe method if not to follow the Forums, buy books, visit museums, see other collections and a good photographic database.
Then try to focus on a particular or more particulars, each of us has its own, which allows you to distinguish that particular manufacturer and look for it in the crosses to distinguish the good from the fake and one manufacturer from the other.
It takes a bit of study and passion will do the rest.
It is my humble opinion
Good start and keep going.

Great advice!

Kirby

[boch_62]

IMO is a good "15" Friedrich Orth - Wien.

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Absolutely yes, EK is good Orth (=15)

Regards
Jarek