How to repair this Friedländer EK1?

[JensF.]

Just got this one from Ebay. A very nice Friedländer (Fr.) EKI 1914 but without pin.

[JensF.]

Any chance to solder this replace brass pin on it?
Maybe by a jeweller?

[Rick Research]

You would have to be VERY careful, because anything hot enough to repeir silver solder is going to... melt the nearby silver solder--

A friend tried replacing a missing 1914 EK2 ring-- and the whole thing literally exploded-- the cast iron burst like shrapnel, and the two halves of the frame not only split, they fizzled, curled up, and went into a puddled mass.

[Bill M]

--Many times the catch is period-repaired on these, but required more solder than the amount originally applied (at least one of mine and those I can recall seeing). I don't recall seeing this area soldered before.
-- The pin requires a different approach in I think that type of weld is inherently weak compared to anchoring a catch to the frame, it probably would need an even 'collar' of solder. As Rick said, these don't react well to prolonged heat and I would imagine this type repair would require more time that the c-catch. Does the broken stock of the pin look like it can be removed?
Sometimes the sides of the retaining pin are exposed sometimes they're soldered over. If the little retaining pin is exposed on both sides, a jeweler can punch the pin out and remove the broken part. {I say a jeweler because they have proper vises and punches - I wouldn't do this with a regular vise and, say, a small nail.}
--Take it out, fix it, put it back. Sound reasonable or insane?

[Mike Kenny]

Hi,

Given the absence of response on a previous posting, how do you know this "Fr." marked EK1 was made by Friedländer?

Regards
Mike K

[Tony & Kaiser]

Think twice.

I have been doing these kind of repairs for friends for years. As noted, when you apply the heat, the entire area heats up and the solder can let loose. Disaster. The trick is to use a heat sink on either side of the repair. This will pull the heat away and should prevent it from being sucked down into the hinge base. You also have to use a very high quality silver-solder with at least a 60 watt iron and a good quality flux. A jeweler, however, uses something many times better what you and I have. A competent jeweler will use resistance soldering which passes a current through the exact spot. It prevents other areas from being heated up. I am very good at iron soldering, but with a hinge, I think I would opt to spend a few $ and have a jeweler do it. He/she will have the right equipment.

[JensF.]

Many thanks my friends! I have checked the retaining pin, it looks soldered on each side. A very well made EK, too well
But maybe this would be the best way to repair it or I have to ask a jeweller.

Mike: I heard many times, that "Fr." was Friedländer but I don't know for sure.