Splittertarn durability question

[BWilhelm]

New guy here. I recently bought one of the jackets (waiting for it to arrive). I've wanted one for years and finally sprung for one but I've never actually seen one in the flesh. I bought it to wear it....not on an everyday basis but fairly regularly. My understanding is that, other than the last ones made, they are made out of canvas like a zeltbahn. I have various Swiss zelts from the 40's and I was wondering if it's pretty much the same material they are made of? Also, I assume that they will hold up to use pretty well if that's the case. Do any of you guys have any insight on how well they do hold up? Also, it has some flecks of paint here and there as many seem to. What is the accepted reason why so many have paint and what is the best way to remove it should I decide to try? It looks like it will need a good cleaning too....warm or cold water? Thanks in advance for any input.

[Collectinsteve]

Congrats on the acquisition. Pretty good condition comparatively speaking.

Belgian, French, German, Swiss, and Spanish camouflage uniforms made in the late 1950s (Spanish being the exception, sticking to it until the 1970s) used essentially the same material. Very rugged, water resistant, and holds colors well. Downsides were up-front manufacturing costs, noisy when new, and lack of breathability.

For a while I used a beat up 1956 Belgian Brush Stroke jacket, but grew tired of it. It it simply wasn't very comfortable. I still have a 1958 Belgian Jigsaw jacket, which is made of thick cotton, and prefer that over the earlier type hands down.

I'm not saying you'll hate wearing this around, rather I can think of plenty of other jackets that would be more comfortable. If you're wearing it for the look, then that's a different thing. Fashion over function or function over fashion, it's an age old question

As an aside, the only Splittertarn uniforms not made in this cloth is an extremely rare experimental type. Contrary to what you heard, it was an early experimentation and not a late one. I can't remember if the jacket I have is dated, but the trousers are dated January 1956. That is the earliest date I've recorded. February 1956 is a common date for standard production, so I assume that's really when production got started.

Steve

[Collectinsteve]

Oh, and definitely unsnap the hood. It's big and floppy, plus it has no practical use since it was designed to go over a helmet. Try putting that hood on over a bare head or simple hat and you'll find it's not really all that useful.

Steve

[BWilhelm]

Roger on the hood. It looks to me like its about as useful as the one on my Blumentarn jacket.....crazy huge.

[juoneen]

Lots of WW2 helms, and equipment has specks of paint on them also. I know the reason, and the older collectors know more about it as they found many items in garages etc, with the flecks of white , and off white paint on them, and it's due to repainting the garage, attic or basement where they have the stuff exposed.9paint was likely rolled without a catch guard to catch the specks , and the owner of the house did the job himself likely , and didnt use drop cloths to catch spatter(pro's always use drop cloths) There is no sense trying to remove it, it is part of the condition, and acceptible showing the stuff has been around a long time....actually its a good sign, and as I said before, old timers look for on items left as found. I strongly reccomend NOT trying to clean or replace them, but I have found sometimes if it is waterbased paint, and put in a bucket for a day, may rub right orr with the bare hand after it has soaked for a day. Exceptfor doing that I would not use anything caustic or rub it with any brushes or anything. Maybe soaking it in water with a tad of oxy clean, may work, and then regardless of the end result, i would let it air dry , ps. a handful of borax added to the water will also help to clean it , and remove any smells if it has any while you aredoing the other test(none of these things will hurt the coat whatsoever). I would rinse it a few times to remove the slimy borax feel , but if it drys on it, it will not hurt anything.

[Guardian 5]

BWilhelm,

While I applaud your style sense, I would council supreme caution in wearng the coat everyday.

When my Splittertarn jacket arrived, I almost tore a button off one of the pockets in the process of unfastening it. The metal fasteners had fused together through oxidation and in trying to pull them apart I almost ruined the pocket.

Ditto for removing the remains of a gefreiter's stripe from the sleeve. I found the material somewhat prone to tearing, probably due to the effect of being wet and dryed out so many times over the course of it's service life and then stuck in a closet for thirty years.

I totally agree with juoneen's ideas on the origins of the paint flecks. And while the Bundeswehr specifically provided for fatigue dress, it wouldn't surprise me at all if the paint got on the jacket while the original wearer was "pulling detail" and painting rocks for some first sergeant's barracks beautification project.

In any event, I can guarantee you'll be the only guy on the block sporting a Kampfanzug Modell 1955 jacket on his daily rounds.

I'd be interested in the reactions you receive from the fairer sex.


All the best,
TJ

[Collectinsteve]

TJ,

Thanks for the reminder about the snaps!! Here's my standard approach to all my 1950s stuff that has snaps (I probably have 50+):

By and large I do NOT unsnap unless absolutely necessary. When I do try to unsnap I gently give it a tug. If it doesn't immediately and easily pop then I stop because forcing generally tears the fabric of the male side.

Instead, I take a pocket knife and gently and carefully place the edge between the two pieces. I then give the knife a small and gentle twist. Usually this pops the snap very easily. Other times I have to twist pretty hard to get it to pop. I then tend not to resnap that one.

If the jacket is to be worn, be VERY aware of this. It's one of the reasons I stopped wearing my 1956 Belgian jacket. The 1958 Belgian jacket I occasionally wear has buttons. Not an accidental design change, I'm sure

I suppose adding a little bit of silicone lubricant would help. But that means very careful application and then thoroughly wiping off the extra to avoid getting it on cloth when not snapped.

Steve

[BWilhelm]

I'll probably just leave the paint alone....it's ersatz wintertarn. If you look carefully at the pictures, some of the buttons do look oxidized. What you guys suggested was pretty much what I had planned for them. I generally never use upper pockets and lower pockets either get the flap tucked in or just left unbuttoned. The snaps look to be the same as what was used on the BGS parka. They get funky if not used for a while. I think it has something to do with a metal reaction among the brass, copper and steel used in their construction. My first BGS parka came from a friend who traded for it when he was in the army back in the early 80's. It think it was dated 1967. It was well worn in when I got it and I pretty much lived in that thing for another ten years or so, fixing it as holes appeared. Eventually it was beyond repair and it pretty much just fell apart. I found one to replace it that was unissued but I could never bring myself to wear it much...it was just too nice. I think i've worn it maybe 10 times in the last ten years. I like stuff faded and worn in. That way I don't notice or worry about new marks and wear. Besides, it gives you that fun eastern front feeling when it's beat up! This new one will hopefully fit the bill nicely. It has little collector value because of the condition. Because of that, I can sew/patch it as it gets holes, replace the zipper if it breaks or modify it from snap to button if a snap tears out. I have craploads of jackets that I cycle through anywho so it won't get worn a whole lot to begin with. It's supposed to be a metric 52 which will fit me fine (I wear a 50).....if the sleeves are long enough. For some reason, some of these older German jackets seem to have short sleeves....but then I'm 6'2" too. If not, i guess it will have to go back up for sale but I'd really much rather get the chance to wear it out. I'll post a couple pictures of my worn out and new BGS parkas.

[BWilhelm]

The worn out one is on the left. The lighting in these pictures isn't very good but in reality the color difference between the two is very obvious.





Wear in the lapel area where the hood meets the body. Notice my old patch:





Just above the sleeve pocket. It eventually got to the point that it was just plain rotted out. You can put your finger right through the fabric if you push hard enough. There are other tears like this but I sure had alot of fun in this thing over the years though. I was the only guy on campus with one:



Here are the ends of the sleeves on the new one. As you guys know, this is always the first area to show wear so I'd call this unissued:



I think the cotton must get weak as it gets old. I just can't bring myself to wear this one....I really ought to just sell it.