History of German Moleskin Uniforms

[Collectinsteve]

Welcome!

As Klaus said there were Moleskin items produced well into the 1990s, but less and less each year as the number wearing the uniforms declined and the stocks of older uniforms were used until exhausted.

Leo Köhler is a legitimate produce of BW items, but it is also one of the largest producer of commercial items. I have a feeling that Köhler produced a lot of the final moleskin items for the BW.

The labels are important to tell the difference between genuine issue and commercial production. In this timeframe the "Q number" (contract number starting with Q) is supposed to be a reliable indicator of Bundeswehr issue. Though it is not a 100% guarantee as there are fake labels on items.

Based on what you have said and the one picture... I feel pretty confident in saying you have a legitimate issue item. Going from memory I don't think I've ever seen much produced after 1997. Maybe something in 1999, I can't remember.

Steve

[Proud Kraut]

Superb informations, thanks Steve!

[Gene T]

Given the title of this thread, I thought that it would not be complete without acknowledging the very first moleskin uniform issued to the German armed forces - the M-28 developed for the Reichswehr. It's a mystery to me why the Wehrmacht didn't continue to use the same material, and instead chose the far inferior HBT to make their rayon/linen field uniforms later on (perhaps cotton was in very short supply?). When the BW revived the idea decades later, they only changed the color of the fabric, as the material itself looks virtually identical to the one used by the Rechswehr. For all we know, they could have come off of the same looms!




The BW might have turned the page (again) on moleskin, but the fashion and casual wear industry only discovered this great fabric not that long ago. There have been many military-inspired garments offered by various designer labels in the past decade, for both men and (especially) women, some of which were virtual copies of actual uniforms worn by armies of the past. I have a Gap shirt that is made out of olive green moleskin, which was undoubtedly inspired by the BW model. The fabric is of the same weight and feel as the BW moleskin, but looks quite different up close. I am showing it next to the Reichswehr and Bundeswehr fabrics to illustrate my contention that the close resemblance between the latter two was probably not accidental.


Gene T

P.S., Ignore the funky insignias on the M-28 shown. It came from the Museum of World Wars this way, via Manion's.

[allen]

Thanks for the info Gene, I've wondered about the Wehrmacht use of moleskin. Years ago at a militaria show I saw a tunic that was made out of moleskin and even the color, to my eye, looked just like BW material. It was badged up as a coastal artillery uniform. Somehow I knew these were early uniforms, but I didn't know exactly how they fit into the scheme of things.

[sammlermws]

Today I had the opportunity to sort through about 500 moleskin jackets. My time was limited to about 2 hours so I didn't take notes or photos, just label reading. These have been in storage at a surplus store unopened since the mid-1990's and I was the first to look through. If anyone has questions or specifics they want me to look for I can go back there to dig. The Bundeswehr did a good job of removing badges but didn't really care about removing names when these were turned in. Only found 2 Leistungsabzeichen, one skill badge and 1 set rank in the lot.

Some interesting findings:
-1 HBT
-about 20 type 1 with and without flags
-1 unissued type 1, no flags
-about 10 type 2 no flags dates from 1966-68
-earliest type 2 no flags dated 3/66
-type 4 with 3 differant variations.
-some have label stating version C or D and these have square pockets and the reenforced tape down the front like type 1 and 2
-version D is made with Aramid

Ofcourse I couldn't help myself and 8 jackets came home with me to include the HBT

[Collectinsteve]

Lucky you!! If you have a chance, go back and grab any of the variants you saw with a letter that you didn't grab this trip. Those are all experimental (Truppenversuch) models. There's at least A, B, C, D, and E from what I remember. They're not exactly difficult to find, though some come up for sale more often than others. The trousers are much harder to find, unfortunately.

Steve

[hoover]

Very good job, Steve.

I have to grab all of my Moleskine uniforms out of the boxes for a closer look which variants I have. There are some 30 jacket/trousers combos, but I never took a closer look which variants they are.

Moleskine uniforms are a bit underrated in my collection...until now

Frank

[Asbjoern]

The problem with these items is that there are some general types (from the Filzlaus-like type from 63 to the last plain type) plus a multitude of subversions with only minor changes (like on many other items). I think these are no official different versions but producer / year specific details due to a different interpretation of the TL by the several makers...

Jens

[Collectinsteve]

It is funny how many times one can see a picture and not see a mistake. I just noticed on the first page I said "shoulder reinforcements" instead of "elbow reinforcements". Oops

As far as I know there are only 4 variations of the standard production Moleskin uniform. The TruVsu items are, of course, a separate animal. Well, two separate animals now that I think about it; 1984 and 1988/89 (which is not technically Moleskin).

For 1984 "Moleskin" I have identified the following:

1984 A jacket and trousers
1984 B jacket
1984 B1 jacket
1984 D jacket
1984 E jacket and trousers

I am sure there are more types of trousers and perhaps more jackets, but these are the ones I know of.

For 1988/89 Oliv I have identified the following:

1988 A jacket, trousers
1988 B jacket, trousers

I'm curious to know what other variants people can confirm. And of course I am very interested in extras of things I don't have!! I have a number of extras of the 1984, 1988/89 I can trade. I also have some extra Flecktarn 88/89 items.

Steve

[Gordon Craig]

Steve,

Interesting comment that perhaps you would like to explain a little? "1984 and 1988/89 (which is not technically Moleskin)".

Regards,

Gordon

[Asbjoern]

Gordon, during these TrVers the BW tried to test other fabrics then Moleskin. The jecets are identical in cut but made out of another fabric. The one I know is more wool like...

Jens

[Gordon Craig]

Jens,

Thanks.

Regards,

Gordon

[Collectinsteve]

Jens is correct, though that isn't want I meant

The 1984 types were made in Aramid (flame resistant) and other fabrics. I'd have to dig mine out to see what specifically. The cut of the uniform is basically somewhat inbetween what I call the 3rd Modell and 4th Modell. The easy way to identify a TruVsu 1984 item is the pockets are squared off like the 4th Modell, but it still has the vertical reinforcements that the 3rd Modell had on the front.

The 1988/89 trials included a proposed barracks/work uniform that was made in an "Oliv" color instead of Flecktarn. The fabric is a thin poly/cotton type (from what I remember!) that was designed to be cheap and tough. As far as I know only a few sets were made in 1988 before the concept was dropped. The cut was similar to that of the Flecktarn sets being tested in parallel.

Steve

[sammlermws]

Here are just a few of my BW moleskins...

Type 1, No Flag, Unissued, closure under collar, dished buttons, reenforced elbows, dated 7/63



Type 1, with added flag, closure under collar, dished buttons, reenforced elbows, dated 7/63



Type 2, No flag, early rank, dished buttons, reenforced elbows, dated 3/66



Type 2, with added flag, dished buttons, reenforced elbows, dated 3/66



Type 2, dished buttons, No reenforced elbows, dated 4/75



Type 3, rounded buttons, dated 1985



Troop Trials "Modell C", 1 button pocket, dated 1984



Troop Trials "Modell D", made with Aramid, 1 button pocket, dated 1984



Type 4, no reenforcement tape on front or sides, 2 button pocket, dated 1989

[Collectinsteve]

Awesome examples! And you got them with original badging too? Lucky dog! It's hard to find 1960s examples with arm rank on them. At least in my experience that's the case.

One note. You have one of yours listed as a Type 2 with no elbow reinforcements. That's a Type 3 from what I can tell.

I'm surprised to see that the jackets had flag on/off variations all the way through 1966. I thought they were standardized by then. The 1963 example you have probably had them added after original manufacture to conform to current regs.

Steve