Normandy - June 6 2010

[bjack]

Hi Guys,

Well im taking a trip for the FIRST time this year to france, for the Normandy June 6th celebrations. Im sure every year you get a post like this, but im not sure, whats changed over the years, whats not so good to check out, whats a MUST see while there.

Im going to be in france for 2 weeks, and may not be back for a while. What im looking for are the things that every enthusiats HAS to check out, which musems, events, and generally what is an absolute must to check out while there. Any help is appreciated guys. Thanks.

[tracman]

This has just been brought up by another member, so I'll simply cut/paste/edit my earlier reply.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of advice: my humble thoughts are that you purchase a good series of maps (ideally the French IGN maps in 1:20000 scale, but you can use the Michelin maps for a broader overview) and otherwise strongly consider purchasing books from the "Battlezone Normandy" series by Sutton Press and compiled by Simon Trew. These are very well researched and written and cover 14 specific phases of D-Day and the Battle of Normandy. It's a very current series that incorporates the latest road and buildings. For someone contemplating a battlefield visit, it' s my humble opinion is that these guidebooks are about as perfect as it gets.

It's unclear how much time you have, so my recommendations would be:

Omaha Beach, starting at Colleville sur Mer and finishing up at Vierville sur Mer. There is a good museum at the latter village. Best to visit this beach at dawn. Several bunkers from WN65, as well as WN71 and WN72 continue to exist at Omaha. The Pointe du Hoc site is a few miles west, on the coastal road.

Airborne Museum at Pegasus Bridge outside Benouville: fantastic museum covering an aspect of the campaign that is generally poorly known by Americans.

Airborne Museum at Ste. Mere Eglise: same, from a US perspective. This can be combined with a visit to Utah Beach and, for those who really know their way around, a visit to the field where Lt. Dick Winters led his depleted platoon against a prepared German artillery position (not far from Holdy) and visits to other sites, such as the Manoir at La Fiere, the Hill 30 position, la Barquette, etc.... You should plan on seeing the small but excellent Dead Mans Corner museum, just south of Ste. Come du Mont, on the way to Carentan.

Hill 112: a few years ago, a Churchill tank was placed on a hardstand there: the actual summit of hill is accessible via a footpath directly across from it, up to a small wood. The view there makes it obvious why it was such a key position. I usually prefer to get to it by following the route of the initial Canadian advance through Crepon to Brettevile-l'Orgeuilleuse, looping west through the XXX Corps area of St. Pierre, then to Fontenay le Plesnel, a detour through Rauray, and then to Cheux, and back south via the Gavrus bridge crossing. It's a good way to see a lot of ground where significant action took place in the first weeks of June.

Hill 262: on the road from Chambois to Vimoutiers, this feature was the one from which troops of the 1st Polish Armored Division somewhat sealed the Falaise Gap. The view from the memorial at the top are breathtaking: the entire Falaise Pocket battlefield is clearly visible from it. Continue to Vimoutiers and then take the road towards Orbec: just at the railway cutting is a parked Tiger I tank, the only one still in the general area. FWIW, it's broadly believed to have belonged to the 503rd Heavy Tank Battalion (Heer).

I would avoid the Musee Memorial de Bayeux: it is a shell of itself since Jean-Pierre Benamou removed his personal collection from it years ago. I am also no great fan of the Caen museum. There is a pretty good museum devoted to Canadian forces at Courseulles sur Mer, and a very good one at Ouisterham, house in the former artillery observation tower. The former Hillman bunker complex was renovated a few years ago and is open to tourists: I haven't seen it but intend to next time I'm there.

The French have gone to considerable efforts to preserve and memorialize the Normandy campaign, which covers hundreds and hundreds of square kilometers. The many signs everywhere indicating that English is spoken, and the bilingual nature of most museums and the like is impressive. Naturally, it stands to reason that attempts to speak French in France will likely be viewed positively, and as anywhere else in the world, you may find some unfriendly types: I'll wager most you'll find will be pleased to host you on their ground...

I would consider looking at the following museums' websites to guide your trip: keep in mind that many of these museums are private and have limited hours, so a check of their websites should help.

Dead Man's Corner Museum: www.paratrooper-musem.org

D-Day Museum Arromanches: www.musee-arromanches.fr

Juno Beach Centre: www.junobeach.org

Le Grand Bunker: www.musee-grand-bunker.com

Memorial du Montormel Coudehard: www.memorial-montormel.org

Memorial Museum Omaha Beach: www.musee-memorial.omaha.com

Memorial Pegasus: www.normandy1944.com

Merville Battery: www.batterie-merville.com

Musee Airborne: www.musee-airborne.com

Musee Aout 1944: www.normandie-museeaout44.com/v2/

Again, my only recommendation for a militaria shop would be the Boutique du Holdy at Ste. Marie du Mont. Most other shops are tourist traps. If you are in Paris, two very much worth checking out are Overlord and Le Poilu. The former is run by Frederic Finel, who is a well-known collector and has published a few books himself. I would, however, offer one thing that really must be done while in Normandy, and that is to visit the Bayeux Tapestry (Tapisserie de la Reine Mathilde) in the center of the city. This amazing 70m long tapestry is arguably the world's first comic strip, depicting the invasion of England in 1066 by William the Conqueror and likely made in 1070 or so. There is an excellent adjoining bilingual museum devoted to explaining Viking influence in France, and subsequent Norman influence on the development of England.

PM me for further details and/or recommendations if you so wish.

[bjack]

This is perfect, thanks.

[Splinterb]

Also in Ste. Marie du Mont across the plaza from the boutique is the Occupation Museum- the owner was very friendly and allowed my son to handle the weapons in the displays. Lots of excellent period art that several Heer soldiers painted on the walls that were not taken down- its small, but lots of great artifacts.

If you can make your way to Blindes, there is a great Armor Museum that is well worth the trip.

If you are going to the commemorative Airdrops at the hippodrome, be prepared for giant crowds and allow for ample parking time and walking to the area.

I would also avoid wearing period US uniforms as apparently, the gendarmes were hassling even French reenactors in 101st uniform last year.

[paddywhack]

if your going for june 6th make sure you have your accommodation booked!around that time it will be PACKED with tourist everywhere you go!! if possible i would actually go before the june period as its much better not having to deal with the crowds!!

[bjack]

already have a great seaside hotel booked at port en bessin right on omaha... it pays to have a incredibley organized girlfriend

thanks for the tips guys will be an incredible trip, much more better after all your help.

[Splinterb]

You'll like La Fleur de Sel Restaurant right where you're staying. Yes, I'm giving you good tips despite the final Olympic Hockey standings.....

[bjack]

You'll like La Fleur de Sel Restaurant right where you're staying. Yes, I'm giving you good tips despite the final Olympic Hockey standings.....

[nexus-6-mariner]

The German cemetery at LaCambe is also well worth a visit. Climb the mound in the middle for a wonderful 360 degree view. After that seek out Wittman's grave.

[paddywhack]

already have a great seaside hotel booked at port en bessin right on omaha... it pays to have a incredibley organized girlfriend

thanks for the tips guys will be an incredible trip, much more better after all your help.

yup its always good having a well organized girlfriend!!!!
but you should have an amazing time!!waking up near the beaches is an amazing thing to do!!!