Restoring/resoldering my 1870 EK2

[Thomas Bendixen]

Hi everyone

Recently I bought a 1870 EK2 that turned out to have split frames with non period sloppy repairs http://dev.wehrmacht-awards.com/foru...d.php?t=867568

I'm considering letting a jeweler re repairing it but would like some advice on how to do it. I'm not willing to do the repair if it can harm the cross, patina or core blackening, and I'm not doing this to enhance its price or cheat anyone passing it of as an unrepaired cross.

Cheers Thomas

[Montgomery Burns]

Hy thomas ,, as promised I prepared a list for you ..

hope you document the process after consulting the list with your jeweller.

regards Monty

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[Montgomery Burns]

Repair instructions Iron cross

After looking it to my period jeweler book I must note first that in matter of soldering ,

the temperature
and fluentness is all the techniques and mixtures and instruction for soldering is about .

In case of the iron cross we have here,
the temperature while soldering must be low to prevent the iron core blackening to be damaged.
And to prevent other earlier soldering to become heated and from there ,, open again .

Furthermore, condition of the cross to be restored.
parts of the frame where soldered and cooled down while the frame was still opened and show now a partially opened frame.

Such a repaired cross holds 2 handicaps
1 the, not original soldering between the frames
2 the original period soft soldering who has a very low melting temperature .

First Problem for this cross is gone be to remove unwanted soldering between the opened frames.
In my opinion the soldering between the opened frames is of a material with an high melting point .
Above 250 celsius

Meaning if ,,,,,that soldering is heated to get it out ,,, the original soldering of the cross with a lower melting point is in danger of heating up and letting the frame open again.
If the temperature is going to high for the original soldering .

But one after the other ,,
First determine what the original solder is
We distinguish between two period solder methods .

Soft solder
And hard solder

Soft solder is soft and has a low melting point
Hard solder is hard and can have a low melting point but not as low as the soft solder .

My own research showed so far,
that most Iron cross frames were soldered with soft solder.

You can identify the solder by taking a thin needle and an amplifier glass .
If the grey layer between the frame can be penetrated with the point of the needle very easy.
it is indeed a soft solder.

If so , you know whatever you solder on the cross the temperature must stay low.
I am warning everyone ,,the solder of the old jeweler could have a melting point as low as 135 celsius ,,or even lower .

[Montgomery Burns]

Step 1
removal of un wanted soldering

we can see to it, IF POSSIBLE ,,
the unwanted soldering is removed mechanically .

if that is not possible
IF HEAT IS USED ,,USE THE JAR METHOD FURTHER BELOW .

prevent the frame of overheating .
and keep in mind that the temperature of the frame stays below 120 celsius

step 2
mixture and preparing the right solder
the old jewelers around 1900 had a wonderful way of mixing silver gold platina copper bras zinc and cadmium to make the most astonishing solder metals .
called LOT
WHITH LOT YOU CAN SOLDER A ITEM ,,,,CALLED LöTEN ,AND THAT IS A LöTUNG
in some cases the temperature of the solder could be lowered to 120 degrees.
EVEN LOWER .
and I don't know how low it was fore the iron crosses
Such as in case of the frames of the Iron cross if you ask me to assess the info .

The mixtures I found to be advised.

silver ,brass and zinc ,
where one has to be careful with is it is real clean zinc .

The mixture used can be chosen from several mixtures.

One is the soft LOT
8 PEACES OF 800 SILVER AND 1.5 PEACES OF ZINC

The other is called MITTLE LOT
7 PEACES OF FINE SILVER 3 PEACES OF COPPER AND 2 PEACES OF ZINC .

If one needs an even faster lot ,,
it could be 4 pieces of 800 silver and 1.45 pieces of zinc .

Going lower in temperature cadmium should be added ,,
but in this case it would not be advisable.
If your jeweler decide to do so tell me ,,there’s a special procedure needed

The mixture should be melted and presses or hammered in a wryly thin metal sheet.
to be placed between the frames to be used as solder.

I advise ,,,Testing the solder you use,,,
tested on its melting point before using it ,,
And sure using the needle again to see how soft it is an compare it to the solder in the frame would be wise to .
Beware,,,
between the collar of the new and old solder could be a deviation as the medal solder had 140 years to oxidize,,, so will be expectedly darker .

and any mixture made with the recipe I named should be molten twice before using it .

[Montgomery Burns]

Step 3
Steppes and Preventions against overheating .

How to protect the cross against overheating while repair attempts .?
In my books there a 3 manners from which the following manner would be the safest.

It’s a jar with sand ,water and charcoal.
It was used to protect jams on rings who were sensitive to heating .
In this case I think it will do for an Iron cross as well.

The mixture used is not to complicated ,,
A jar with Sand , kept wet with water.
The charcoal was placed on top of the sand as within the ring to block heat.
I would try to use it only on the surface concerning an iron cross.

Step 4
Another soldering tool

In the old day’s jewelers made themselves solder placing tools for the items to fixate the item in the right angle and place
To free their hands while soldering .
Such an item you can see here below .
Could be used if the solder temperature stays low enough .
the sand water and cole should prevent also the damage to the original blackening of the core

[Montgomery Burns]

In our case its some extra info as the instructions purpose is also to give a view in the jewelers work .

Coming to the soldering heating source.

By 1910 gas would be used look at the picture.



So here is enough info for a safe attempt to restore the the 1870 cross .

A experienced jeweler should be able to tackle the job.

One thing I must note ,,,,,this process will expectedly leed to some loss of the patina on the crosses frame .
The frame will be heated not matter what ,,meaning the copper oxide we see as patina on the silver frame will be effected .
There will be some loss to the dark collaring .


Hope the instruction help out in the restoring of the cross ,,

Regards . Montgomery Burns

[Montgomery Burns]

I hope you are helped with this ,,and you can discuss the list with youre jeweller and see if he see's working with it ..

and I hope you photo document it ..

but hey ,,,all on your own risk ,,asses the situation and instruction with you're friend jeweler first , and see if the risk is worth it ,,,
as they're is no gain in restoration,,only a nicer visual look .
that most likely will not be noticeD as no one looks at the sides of the frame a lot .

all do my instruction minimize the risk ,,,they're a lot of skill needed and,,, it all can go wrong due the unknown circumstances .....you must be prepared not only to have success but also ,,,to have peace with the situation in case of a total loss.

regards kay

[Montgomery Burns]

oh a little note ,,,from a college collector


as solder fat the old jeweller used Borax ,,I forgotten to mention ,


STILL AVAILABLE ON THE MARKED ,,
but the modern solder fat will do to


regards kay

[Thomas Bendixen]

Thanks a lot Kay for your time and for sharing your extensive research in this matter. I will contact my jeweler friend and see what he thinks.

Cheers Thomas

[Montgomery Burns]

Thanks a lot Kay for your time and for sharing your extensive research in this matter. I will contact my jeweler friend and see what he thinks.

Cheers Thomas

I gladly help you out Thomas ...interesting for me as well ...

i just hope the importance of what is revealed will also be appreciated by other colleges as well,,,, one day.




Regards montgomery burns

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