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**blutundehre** · 08-20-2011, 04:56 PM

I think your fine as long as you keep an eye on the humidity in the room they are stored. Paul can give a more elaborate answer, I'm sure.
Dave

**borodinenko** · 08-20-2011, 08:49 PM

Originally posted by blutundehre View Post

I think your fine as long as you keep an eye on the humidity in the room they are stored. Paul can give a more elaborate answer, I'm sure.
Dave

many thanks blutundehre, and let see if Paul has other advice for me, because
conservation is apparently a real headache

**Paul R.** · 08-21-2011, 01:07 PM

Dave is correct... Humidity is the first concern in all types of conservation. Both high and low humidity can cause long term damage. Looking at the photograph that you supplied I would recommend removing the bayonet from the scabbard. Inside the scabbard you will find dirt, grime, oil, and who knows what else is in there. Cleaning the insides of scabbards thoroughly is almost impossible to do. I would recommend to you that you display your bayo and scabbard separately along with the leather frog.

Humidity is also hard on leather. Damp leather from humidity can cause rusting to the scabbard and accelerated leather wet rot. Once the wet rot condition is started it almost impossible to treat completely and can be a costly venture.

The iron crosses displays on the jewelers black boards. I would check to see if the display is archival safe. Most are not archival safe. Most jewelers’ display props are cheap plastic and can off gas. You can find acrylic stands, or black archival safe corrugated boards for your displays, or acid free archival card board. Ideally you do not want to display your iron crosses with their ribbons attached. The folded ribbon (crease) in time will break down and pull apart.

The iron cross that is lying on top of the ribbon I would choose a different archival base stand. I would buy a piece of archival acid free paper, or acid free cardboard. Place the iron cross on the acid free card board. With a pencil carefully trace on to the cardboard the iron cross shape. Next take an exacto knife razor and cut out the traced cross. Place the cut out acid free card board under the cross on top of the ribbon (kind a like a sandwich). The ribbon fabric is not archival material nor is the painted (lead paint) iron crosses iron core. You don’t want to stain your ribbon with rust. The glass pane is archival.

No to the phase “conservation is apparently a real headache” only seems like that…

Of course these are your things to do whatever you see fit…

**blutundehre** · 08-21-2011, 03:07 PM

Thanks Paul for the elaborate answer that I was unable to give. You probably don't get the thanks you deserve in helping the community to preserve their investment, so thanks again.
Dave

**borodinenko** · 08-21-2011, 04:44 PM

re

Originally posted by Paul R. View Post

Dave is correct... Humidity is the first concern in all types of conservation. Both high and low humidity can cause long term damage. Looking at the photograph that you supplied I would recommend removing the bayonet from the scabbard. Inside the scabbard you will find dirt, grime, oil, and who knows what else is in there. Cleaning the insides of scabbards thoroughly is almost impossible to do. I would recommend to you that you display your bayo and scabbard separately along with the leather frog.

Humidity is also hard on leather. Damp leather from humidity can cause rusting to the scabbard and accelerated leather wet rot. Once the wet rot condition is started it almost impossible to treat completely and can be a costly venture.

The iron crosses displays on the jewelers black boards. I would check to see if the display is archival safe. Most are not archival safe. Most jewelers’ display props are cheap plastic and can off gas. You can find acrylic stands, or black archival safe corrugated boards for your displays, or acid free archival card board. Ideally you do not want to display your iron crosses with their ribbons attached. The folded ribbon (crease) in time will break down and pull apart.

The iron cross that is lying on top of the ribbon I would choose a different archival base stand. I would buy a piece of archival acid free paper, or acid free cardboard. Place the iron cross on the acid free card board. With a pencil carefully trace on to the cardboard the iron cross shape. Next take an exacto knife razor and cut out the traced cross. Place the cut out acid free card board under the cross on top of the ribbon (kind a like a sandwich). The ribbon fabric is not archival material nor is the painted (lead paint) iron crosses iron core. You don’t want to stain your ribbon with rust. The glass pane is archival.

No to the phase “conservation is apparently a real headache” only seems like that…

Of course these are your things to do whatever you see fit…

a big thank you for this valuable information that I will certainly apply.

, another question, can i let my stuff in this wooden cabinet? is it safe?

**Paul R.** · 08-21-2011, 06:49 PM

Thanks I really appreciate it!

**blutundehre** · 08-21-2011, 07:29 PM

**blutundehre** · 08-21-2011, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by borodinenko View Post

a big thank you for this valuable information that I will certainly apply.

, another question, can i let my stuff in this wooden cabinet? is it safe?

I believe if the wood is sealed and finished well it shouldn't be a problem, but that's a big if. Most furniture when purchased from a store is finished for the look and usually is not sealed very well if at all, that being said, if the items are not touching the wood you should be fine.

What say you Paul?
Dave

**borodinenko** · 08-21-2011, 08:25 PM

Originally posted by blutundehre View Post

I believe if the wood is sealed and finished well it shouldn't be a problem, but that's a big if. Most furniture when purchased from a store is finished for the look and usually is not sealed very well if at all, that being said, if the items are not touching the wood you should be fine.

What say you Paul?
Dave

ok and many thanks to you too

**blutundehre** · 08-21-2011, 08:30 PM

Originally posted by borodinenko View Post

ok and many thanks to you too

Glad to help

Dave

**Paul R.** · 08-21-2011, 09:08 PM

Dave is correct, but I would strongly suggest a applying a hard epoxy clear sealer over the old one. I find that a current store manufactured items (cabinets) use a poor quality stain and sealer. Most of these are made in China or other place outside the USA. Many overseas mfg. companies can use poor quality stains and if they apply type of sealants. Many of these overseas companies’ stains and sealants can out gas for quite a while (I bought cabinet at a big box store IKEA it was made in China). I found that sealing the cabinet again with a good quality epoxy sealer work out great, and gives added protection. I also use the sealant on wood that contains a lot of tannic acid like oak, pine and black walnut to name a few types of wood. A little extra insurance from a $10.00 can of sealer.

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