Long term display of uniforms with belts, etc

[Paul McKee]

I really wasn't sure if this is a conservation or display question. Perhaps both.

I really appreciate seeing uniforms displayed as worn in use with all the related belts and equipments. I realize that displaying of uniforms this way poses risks involved with the physical weight and pressure on the textile garment. But what about any transfer of anything harmful from the leather to the textile?

What is the best way to protect the textile from contact with leather? My concerns are not only in regard to display of WWII uniforms, but mid-19th Century Civil War uniforms.

I have been considering cutting strips of acid-free paper to place behind the belts, but to prevent complete contact with the leather the strips would have to be wider and this would look unsightly. Does acid-free paper come in different colors? What about clear acylic forms cut and shaped to the belt? Perhaps they could even be made to support the weight of the belt rather than the garment itself.

Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

[Gebirgsjgr]

Good question Paul. I like to display my stuff but I am constantly worrying about the damage that I may be doing to it.

[Paul R.]

That is a really good question. A nicely dress mannequins can be very nice. However you are correct in being concerned with the weight from field gear, belts, and things is that in time these things do take a toll on the uniform below the set up of the field gear. If you are serious about you collection you can do a lot of things conservation wise that will help you maintain your collection for years to come without spending a lot of money. A lot of it is basic things, and will take very little of your time
<O</O
Most collectors don’t care and will actually damage a military item costing anywhere $5.000-50.000 for an item. I have seen first hand horrorable mounting of a general tunic crammed into a wood frame under glass with blaring lights on it, or re sews it to fit a mannequin. Not a good ideal for any long term keeping of a tunic. I have seen a guy who had a well documented major rank Heer tunic re- stitched (a great condition to begin with) tunic to fit a store mannequin. All that would have been needed was some additional padding to adapt to his tunic. We don't have to go to extreams to mount or display things. For me if I put that kind of money into an item. I’m going to take the best care of it as possible. Even though I’m a 3 D museum conservator I still treat my personal items with care.

Yes acid free is a good choice. The two problems with acid free paper is the color, and it’s slippery. Unfortunately dyed colors can affect acid free stability. That why it is found only in off white or white.
You can still use the paper, but you may have to be creative in hiding it from view. One addition item is if you can add padding under the tunic. In other words between the mannequin and the tunic place a hand full of poly batting a soft archival material that’s used in handmade quilts or what found in stuffed toys. I like to use it for relieving pressure on y straps especially over the shoulders. Behind belt buckles acid free card board is good to use so is Mylar (but Mylar to is slippery)
<O</O
Yes be careful of displaying a leather item that could have been treated to soften it up. Many times you can get transfer oil to cloth. Even thought it might have been a couple of years since it was treated and feels dry. Some treatments use lanolin or other oils (leather treatment oil that can be transferred)
Also remember you do not have to display the complete gas can, or bead bag with all the gear in it. The poly batting material, or acid free paper crinkled up makes it look full, but has no weight. Just some ideas.<O</O

[STRADALE]

How about strips of muslin fabric?

[Paul R.]

Yes that will work also.

[Paul McKee]

Thanks everyone, for the suggestions thus far. I'll start with muslin padding inside and acid-free strips under the belts and see how well I can hide them.

I have several Civil War dress hats (felt hats shaped much like Pligrim hats) that require additional support on the brim and crown. Should I go the clear plastic support route, what materials should I consider? Does mylar only come in thin flexible sheets? What about acylic or plexi? I imagine those materials could be formed to shape with heat. I was considering a clear plastic form in the shape of the hat to support both the bottom and interior of the crown. The clear form could then be mounted on the backwall of the display to make the hats appear to float in space above the uniforms. Any thought on this? If adhesives are used in creating the forms, what type is best so as not to contaminate the artifact?

Paul

[Paul R.]

Paul… Mylar only comes in a few thicknesses if I recall correctly 6 mil is the top of the chart. These thicknesses will not support a hat. Corplast corrugated board will offer a better support. You would have to build a stand/support using Corplast corrugated board, poly batting, and muslin. Remember to cover the corplasts edges with muslin. You don't want to leave any sharp edges exposed that could cut into the old fabric of the hat.
Just remember to build the hat support that will not stress out any part of the hat. Otherwise you could great new problems down the road

[Paul McKee]

Thanks Paul,

Corplast. That's interesting. In another life, I worked for a display company which printed the famous DeKalb flying corn cob on Corplast sheets to make farm test plot signage that's seen all over rural areas of the Midwest. Is Corplast inert and safe to use around textiles?

Regarding my hat question, I was hoping to discover a clear material (like acrylic or plexiglass) that could be had 3/16 inch or thicker to support the weight, be shaped into a slightly smaller size as the hat...or at least have a cylinder attached to a disc of the same material to suppport the hat. If made of thick plexi, the edges could be machined with a cutter to produce a smooth radiused edge. Clear material would be ideal for attractive and discrete display purposes. Even a smoked or dark plexi might look interesting. What are your thoughts about plexi or acrylic (or any other clear materials) in contact with historic textiles?

Paul

[Paul R.]

Yes that sign stuff you were working with is 100% archival safe for all artifacts. Some of my museum artifact storage boxes are made out of corplast. It good and strong as well. Great for heavy metal objects.
When making a hat/cap stand be sure that over 80% - 90% of that hat/cap is supported by the stand, or other padding. Otherwise the hats top fabric will stretch out or will stress the cap/hats seams.
<O</O
Here is a conservation mannequin site called Dorfman they are good but expensive. They have some nice displays, and ideas.. http://museumfigures.com/cf.htm
Paul

[-Herbstnebel-]

Why dont you cut paper bands in the excact same shape as the belts and attach them before putting on the uniform, with sewing thread in black or darkbrown, no stitching off course, just binding a piece of thread around it every 30cm or so. Should be unnoticable