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Helmet Rust (control/prevention advice??)

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    #16
    I never give any treatment to my helmets, ground dug or not, and the rust on them has not spread over the past 10 to 15 years. Rust is not a bacterial infection, it is a chemical reaction that can occure in certain conditions regardless of whether there is already rust present or not. With a proper humidity level, there should be no spread of rust.
    IMO the vast majority of treatments proposed are more destructive then anything else, and will alter the helmets caracteristics, and decrease value on the long term. I would never even consider buying a relic item that has been sprayed with WD for example.
    The only time I would consider treating helmets is in the case where there is clearly a large amount of good paint under the rust, as in some ground dug specimens.

    JL

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      #17
      Originally posted by Mr. Scratch View Post
      There's no brand name, it's just a chemical.

      I order mine off the internet. Instructions for use can be found at a couple of websites, but I just mix mine with water or alcohol (it comes powdered), and after removing excess/loose rust, I scrub it into the rusted areas with a toothbrush.

      The treated rust spots will turn a charcoal grey color. Give it a number of treatments over a few days depending how how much rust you have. Then after it's dried for awhile, a coat of Ren wax, and you're done. I've had rusty objects that look no different than when I treated them a decade ago, and I live in the Pacific Northwest where we get plenty of rain and damp in the Fall and Winter.
      Thanks for the info. I am old fashioned and try to find a physical location to buy things... seems odd such an item is hard to find. In the old days(100 yrs ago) tannic acid was apparently used much more and not so esoteric as it is now.

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        #18
        "In the old days(100 yrs ago) tannic acid was apparently used much more and not so esoteric as it is now. "

        So was mercury, cocain and bloodletting...

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          #19
          Originally posted by Jean-Loup View Post
          "In the old days(100 yrs ago) tannic acid was apparently used much more and not so esoteric as it is now. "

          So was mercury, cocain and bloodletting...

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            #20
            I was just reading up on this tannic acid. Apparently in a helmet bath it leaves the exposed metal areas black and treated rusted areas dark blue. True or false?
            Thks
            Kelly

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              #21
              Hello Jean-Loup:

              I think by far a rust removal on a ground dug relic if done properly looks 10x better on display. And from what I have seen increases the value.

              Kelly

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                #22
                Originally posted by Kelly w View Post
                I was just reading up on this tannic acid. Apparently in a helmet bath it leaves the exposed metal areas black and treated rusted areas dark blue. True or false?
                Thks
                Kelly
                More charcoal grey (almost black) in both cases, though exposed metal doesn't take the acid as well as the rust.

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                  #23
                  I think , if your lucky enough to have an uncleaned helmet, don't touch it.
                  alternatively i believe WD40 stops rust from spreading.
                  Cheers
                  Greg

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                    #24
                    Rust is not always a surface problem that lays on the top surface. Many servere rusted areas erodes downward and out. Spraying WD40 is only a short fix to your rust problem. WD 40 is not a miracle cure.... If WD 40 worked so well. I'd should have sprayed it on my old rusty car so it could turn new again. My friends who collect old vintage autos would have saved a lot of money on restoration.

                    Of course these are your treasures to do with as you see fit

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