I apologise for bringing up this worn out topic but i figure its better to ask instead of guessing. Should renwax be applied to the areas on the blade of a combat bayonet only where the bluing is gone, or the whole blade? Also should the pommel, flashguard and such be coated with renwax or left alone?
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Ren wax is a great product. It's a microsilican wax. Some people apply it to everything. Even the can states it good for almost everything. However it has had some negative effects on wood, leather, painted art, and some plastics. Some conservation people (myself included) only use it on medal only. Since it's a wax it seals of moisture which is good, but it doesn’t all objects to breath. No the British doesn't apply it to everything as the Ren Wax can claims. They did early in the days when ren wax was new. Applied on non medal objects it irreversible, because the wax goes in deep. If damage shows when Ren Wax has been use it's hard to remove all of it 100% . Of course the nay sayers on this forum claim its safe on all things. If that not a concern to you then apply it to everything. Just a note a little goes along way. Don’t over apply you will have a milky appearance. -
i think only apply to non-porous materials. so leather and wood are not advisable.Comment
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Military.. Your right non porous metals only. Such items made from wood, leather, paper, raw pottery (non glazed) waxing an item is not a good idea. Wax is wax either petroleum or bee's wax or micro silica wax seal up structure cells. The above items need to breath. Wax will not allow natural cell structure to breathe rather plugging up porous cell structure. Wax is non reversible on leather, paper, wood, cloth, raw pottery.Comment
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thanks guysComment
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