Helmet Preservation

[Eric Queen]

Can I ask you helmet guys what is the best thing to put on steel helmets to help combat rust ( and will be absolutely safe in regards to the paint and decals ). Is WD40 the best?

Thanks,

Eric

[Perry Floyd]

I use a product called Sheath, by Birchwood Casey. It's simular to WD40 but doesn't leave a oily/wet feeling after a couple of days. I have'nt used any in awhile as I rarely clean anything. Unless it has severe active rust.....

[Donald L.]

Other than a careful, light cleaning (soft natural brush and cloth), I generally leave them as is being [the helmet] today is already 60+ years old and has survived this long (often times under less than ideal storage conditions...attics, cellars, barns, etc...). I definitely remove it from moisture sources including high humidity environments. Regarding treatments, in the past I have used for severe cases [steel shells only] a light application of an aerosol furniture wax (pledge). It's never applied directly to the surface, the solvents/propellents may cause problems as time goes on, and it's never applied to any leather or decals. I generally try to avoid it though, as the finish takes on an "un-natural" glossy look.

Regarding oils (WD-40 included), I myself stay away from them completely, they are generally petroleum based and am concerned that they may react with the finish, decals and other components over time.

I am very interested as well in learning what other members do for preservation of their helmets and headgear, including wool items. For me moth balls are generally out for obvious reasons. Has anyone had any solid long term success with non-chemical moth-cidal methods (including cold storage for a few days in a freezer)???
Thanks!!
Don

[soldat45]

For Eric

Hello Eric
I would recomend (please forgive my spelling) Microcrystiline wax it is what is used in museums to protect firearms and other metal items I use it as well on my civil war rifles WWII daggers and helmets and it dosen't impart a nasty shine and I do agree with the fellow above aginst the use of oils. because they are oils and do create a micro climate betwen the oil and the metal as well as a funky shine and oils will pick up lint and dust that becomes abrasive when handeled or wipped off if interested I can supply you with a place to pick up the wax. Also I have found on very dry leather use that facial stuff NIVIA it works well and has no organic stuff in it all man made.
Thank you
Jerry

[Frentebro]

As a former museum curator, i agree with Don. As a rule, the less done the better; i don't recommend putting anything on your pieces. Just keep them clean & dry, in a fairly stable environment (no attics or cellars) & away from sources of heat & direct sunlight.

Applying anything to leather will take away the original character, but if it's flaking, it needs some help to stop this. The best thing is pure lanolin, available at drugstores. Warm the tube briefly in a container of hot water to improve application. It's the only treatment that will not darken light- color leathers also.

Cedar wood is excellent for repelling insects, & is often available from sporting goods houses & also specialty wood suppliers. (Search with www.Google.com ) You can place small pieces of the wood in a sealed bag with your item & then store as you normally would, or get cedar chips from a pet supply or garden shop, bag them up in muslin in handy sizes & store your treasures with these.

There are actually a number of different insect species that will attack organic materials - carpet beetles, silverfish, pill bugs, etc., & these can thrive in dark places where moths may not appear.

[Eric Queen]

Thanks guys,

I appreciate the imput and information very much.

Eric

[John Hodgin]

helmet care

Hi Eric,

Here are my two cents for what they are worth. Have been away and that's the reason for my late reply. I would consider WD40 the kiss of death, it (or any other oil) will attack the paint and soften it over time. Donald L. and Frentebro and correct, petroleum products should be avoided, and doing as little as possible is always best. LL Bean sells 'Snowseal' for snow proofing boots that is pure beeswax. I think this would be ok on a leather liner that was so dry that it was in danger of falling apart. Have seen a few para helmets with liners like this that had been stored in hot southern attics for forty plus years. Any animal oil should be avioded just as petroleum.

As for active rust on a shell, applying a SMALL amount of pure wax with a Q-tip to the rust area should seal it from air and prevent further damage.

Best,
John

[DJT]

Eric,

Theres some excellent helmet preservation info at Brian Bells website located at www.german-helmets.com

Regards,

Des

[Frentebro]

Lanolin is the exception to the "No animal oil" rule. (It's derived from the natural oil in sheep's wool). Anything else, including Sno-Seal, will darken light-colored leathers. I would not treat even dry leather, however, unless it's flaking. Stored in a stable environment it will be OK. Leather items have been found in the Middle East & other dry climates that are in intact after thousands of years, altho a bit brittle.

There is probably petro product in SnoSeal to render it soft - pure beeswax has a hard consistency unless heated.

[Donald L.]

I'd like to share Eric's comment and thank everyone for the information. The sharing of the technical info is greatly appreciated here as well. Thanks again!!
Don