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**rajko84** · 10-12-2009, 08:47 PM

I finally found on the forum what to put on the blades: ren wax. question where you buy it and how I remove gun oil?

**schönbeck** · 10-13-2009, 01:10 PM

renaissance wax can usually be found on ebay or at a local gun or knifesmith, at least here in Sweden. 65 ml will do for along time, I think I paid 10 euros.
Gunoil=with a rag

**rajko84** · 10-13-2009, 02:11 PM

When I wipe it with a run it is still some left it is still grease. What will take of the oil without hurting the blade? Maybe painthiner?
Thank you for you input. I just found wax for $25 for 7 ounc is that a good price?

**Stu W** · 10-13-2009, 04:53 PM

Hello,

Possibly you can tell us what kind of blades you have the oil on and then we can better advise you. Until that time I suggest you do not do anything more than wipe them with a cloth. If you have a photo that would also be helpful.

As general rule doing less is best so please give us as much information as possible to base our comments upon. If the blade is plated and there are openings in the plating our advice would be very different than if it's a machine made combat item blade. Methods would also differ if the item can be dismantled.

You will also need to address the issue of future storage if the scabbard has come in contact with oil. Oil on scabbard runners will lead to further issues if not addressed before you place the weapon back inside. Many of us store our edged weapons out of their scabbards.

Regards,
Stu

**rajko84** · 10-14-2009, 07:39 AM

I will post pictures this weekend thank you for your help.

**Stahlhelm** · 10-14-2009, 08:19 PM

I completely agree with Stu's comments!

Chris

**rajko84** · 10-18-2009, 08:31 PM

these are the ones I put oil on the blades. I have a lot more blades but they are different types not german. So after you explain to me how to take care of these ones I will do the same with the rest of my blades. Plus when I was looking at the army dagger inside of the scabbard I can see the red rust. I bought this from a guy who was not collector and I think he had them in his garage. And here in Florida there's about 100% humidity.
thank you Rajko

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**wiendolch** · 10-21-2009, 03:11 AM

Hi Rajko,

Gun oil itself will not harm the blade but it will attract's and holds dirt and dust and that's were you get spotting and rust.

To remove the oil you can simply wash the blades in warm soapy water from the tap, a mild dish soap like Ajax works good, being sure not to get any water on or under the crossguard and grip if you choose to take them down it would be easier. Water will not harm the blades if dried quickly with a soft towel.

To protect your blades i have used NuFinish car wax it's cheap and lasts at least one year and is acid free, more if you don't handle it alot. I live in Michigan and have humidity just like you do and have never had a problem with rust or spotting using this product. with a soft old tee shirt (100% cotton) Apply two to three coats making sure you don't get it in the etching of the makers mark if you do just be sure to clean it out good with a soft cloth or Q-tip. Once you feel the dry cloth slip on the blade you know it's protected.

Just remember that everytime you touch the blade with your hands to wipe off the fingerprints, the acid from your hands will eat through any wax over time.

This also works on fittings with patina as it will remove the grime but not the patina or lacquerd finish...

Reguards,
Eric

**rajko84** · 10-21-2009, 07:16 PM

Originally posted by wiendolch View Post

Hi Rajko,

Gun oil itself will not harm the blade but it will attract's and holds dirt and dust and that's were you get spotting and rust.

To remove the oil you can simply wash the blades in warm soapy water from the tap, a mild dish soap like Ajax works good, being sure not to get any water on or under the crossguard and grip if you choose to take them down it would be easier. Water will not harm the blades if dried quickly with a soft towel.

To protect your blades i have used NuFinish car wax it's cheap and lasts at least one year and is acid free, more if you don't handle it alot. I live in Michigan and have humidity just like you do and have never had a problem with rust or spotting using this product. with a soft old tee shirt (100% cotton) Apply two to three coats making sure you don't get it in the etching of the makers mark if you do just be sure to clean it out good with a soft cloth or Q-tip. Once you feel the dry cloth slip on the blade you know it's protected.

Just remember that everytime you touch the blade with your hands to wipe off the fingerprints, the acid from your hands will eat through any wax over time.

This also works on fittings with patina as it will remove the grime but not the patina or lacquerd finish...

Reguards,
Eric

thank you.
But what should I do with the rust inside of scabbard?
Regards Rajko

**Stahlhelm** · 10-23-2009, 06:16 PM

Once you remove the oil from the blades, try Renaissance Wax (Ren-Wax). It's even used by museums, and, as far as I'm concerned, it's the best thing out there for your needs. Once applied, it's invisible, it won't harm blades, and there will be no need for further worries. I use it myself, and I've never had a single problem with it. It's available at most knife and cutlery shops; or, it's also available countless places on the internet.

For more information about Ren-Wax, just do a search for it here on the forum. It has been discussed repeatedly, ad infinitum.

Chris

**Paul R.** · 10-23-2009, 06:43 PM

Originally posted by wiendolch View Post

Hi Rajko,

Gun oil itself will not harm the blade but it will attract's and holds dirt and dust and that's were you get spotting and rust.

To remove the oil you can simply wash the blades in warm soapy water from the tap, a mild dish soap like Ajax works good, being sure not to get any water on or under the crossguard and grip if you choose to take them down it would be easier. Water will not harm the blades if dried quickly with a soft towel.

To protect your blades i have used NuFinish car wax it's cheap and lasts at least one year and is acid free, more if you don't handle it alot. I live in Michigan and have humidity just like you do and have never had a problem with rust or spotting using this product. with a soft old tee shirt (100% cotton) Apply two to three coats making sure you don't get it in the etching of the makers mark if you do just be sure to clean it out good with a soft cloth or Q-tip. Once you feel the dry cloth slip on the blade you know it's protected.

Just remember that everytime you touch the blade with your hands to wipe off the fingerprints, the acid from your hands will eat through any wax over time.

This also works on fittings with patina as it will remove the grime but not the patina or lacquerd finish...

Reguards,
Eric

Never wash any blades in water. You are asking for serious problems

WOW!! Why use a harsh cleaner like ajax. Why ruin a blade by scratch it. You gotta be kidding me right!

Humm! A car wax that's acid free?? You are kidding me right?
At the museum that I conserve at we always use Ren Wax. Use it on the blade only.

**rajko84** · 10-23-2009, 06:55 PM

no problem I will just wipe them of. But what about the rust inside of the scabbard of my dagger?
thank you rajko

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