Affordable display for starter collection

[Kryptos]

The time has come for me to get my collection in a proper display.

So what I would appreciate would be some pointers to a beginner collector of how to get a 'starter' set-up for display.

I have read about humidity, light etc, but need something simple as a start that is extendable.

What kind of set-up can you recommend to keep the items (all badges and awards) safe, whilst also being affordable and extendable at a later stage?

Thanks.

[Paul R.]

You will hear all sorts of imformation on this site or any other ones. Some people say that there is no proof that anything will happen to"their" collection. These people say that there collection is in a shoe box, or in a cigar box for 60 year and it is fine. They buy a regular picture frames, and place there items in it. Then the will hang that frame in sunlight, and they still claim eyerything is good. Some people still don't want to believe anything can happen. Some people feel that conservators are just blowing smoke, and conservators don't no anything but are good at calling wolf. All they want to do is discredit conservators and will do everything in the power to do so.
While collectors just want to be sure so they use the state of the art storage systems. So read many articles before you discide on what action you want to take. At the top of this conservation area there are some pinned articles that give some ideas. The best advice is do a lot of reading and ask a lot of questions before you decide. Paul

[Kryptos]

Thanks Paul.

I studied chemistry at university so there is no need to ever convince me of the negative effect that moisture, heat and and light can have in terms of destructive chemical reactions. Moisture will break down some metals and UV light will destroy highly coloured compounds and catalyse other reactions.

But I also need to mitigate the costs and get the best possible solution that I can afford. Because the other danger is that the solution is so prohibitive cost wise that the collection will remain exposed for years before getting the display in something.

Will definitely do some reading, but if any person who has successfully created a cost effective conservation display can add their suggestions I would really appreciate it.

[Paul R.]

Conduct a web search on museum or conservation supples. Some companies with these items are University conservation produces, Talas conservation products, Gaylord library and museum products. These companies sell 97% museum archival safe products. Paul

[ApathyL]

Here is what i made for my medals and bagdes, it costed about $20 to make I put in a small moisture absorbant and thats it. My Crosses nor any other medals had never tarnished and they been like you see them now for nearly 2 years. I have all the ribbons, and the packets to most of them but are put away for storage.

Cheers, Les.

[Kryptos]

Looks great!! What do you use for moisture absorbant?

[ApathyL]

Looks great!! What do you use for moisture absorbant?

Thanks, I use those small white packets, what you find in medications and that does a great job.

Good luck.

Cheers, Les.

[Kryptos]

Thanks Les.

How often do you change the dessicant?

[ApathyL]

your welcome mate! I have 2-3 that i change but I only have one in there at any on time. Theres no need to buy expensive stuff when cheaper stuff do the same job. There are two EK`s that are slightly tarnished, but i got them that way and they stayed a little tarnished only. The mint EK`s are in the same way as i got them.


Cheers, Les.

[Kryptos]

I assume you regenerate them some way? Heating in the oven?

Indicating silica gel will at least tell one when to regen but the scary thing is the indicator in it is cancer causing...

[ApathyL]

I just have it in there....I never did that maybe i should soon though. My freind who has a militaria shop, he has a big case full of EK`s and he has like 10 of these packets in there. Is it really cancer cousing ? can you explain a little ? Thanks.


Les.

[Kryptos]

Studied chemistry of all things...

On the gel itself: The silica gel used gets saturated over time and then has to be regenerated. Usually heating it works, but you have to be careful not to overheat or you will destroy the dessicant ability of the gel. On the other hand you can only really do it a couple of times, kinda like a rechargable battery.

On the indicator: Only talking about the blue-pink gel. Blue when it is dry, turns pink when it has been saturated. The indicator used is Cobalt Chloride. And this indicator is a carcinogen (causes cancer).

However, it is rated as a carcinogen by inhalation so the fine dust particles of the silica gel is a problem. However, even the fine dust of non indicating (white) silica gel is a hazard if inhaled (as with any fine particulate matter that gets in the lungs). But in the packets it is fine as it is contained. More talking about when you chuck out new silica gel and you get that cloud of dust going.

Problem with regenning the packets in an oven could be that the paper catches fire

Have been wracking my brain on a clean, simple sollution with regards to dessicants but still thinking so far. It is messy and troublesome at best unless you manage to find a whole stash of the new packets. If the packet are kept in the atmosphere it will soon become useless, sadly.

[ApathyL]

Thanks for the info. I only handle it when i change it but usually I just have it in there and not touching it a lot. Thanks again. I`ll watch out for that.


Les.

[Kryptos]

I wouldn't stress about the packets anyways, safely contained and such a small amount. Was more thinking along the line of a design that could use indicating gel.

And where does one get the packets anyways aside from shopping like a mad person for shoes or munching pills by the truckload

[Scott-W]

Aside from cancerous agents like silica gel- ,I opted to just buy a de-humidifier,and place it in the display room.I only use it if the humidity is above 70% or so(spring-summer in the southern US) and keep the room otherwise climate controlled year round.This also keeps most of even the minutest pests away,in addition the regular insecticide spraying by the exterminators(this is a must regardless of what you collect to keep your house/apt pest controlled).I've been collecting/displaying most of 30 yrs and to date never had a deterioration issue outside of leather goods continuing to harden,no matter how well you take care of them,they just have a built in breakdown system,like all organic items,like ourselves! Another peeve of mine was back in my Japanese collecting years ANYTHING made of rubberized canvas,like slings and holsters,continued to harden due to the early use of raw rubber,that is irreversible I'm afraid. Also note the if you collect/display German leather gear like holsters,you obviously DON'T store the guns in them due to tannic acid attacking the bluing,but unless you stuff them with some media,rags,bubble wrap,ect.,they will shrink over time,if not already,and the intended gun will cease to fit in them.Same with boots and map cases.So stuff em'! And if you like to carry your displays on the road to shows,keep in mind the change of atmospheres and air conditioning/heating in auditoriums and your vehicle/hotel rooms will cause all sorts of maladies,such as surface sweating and condensation that will cause instant results! Silica packs inside the display cases may help,but it's hell on larger equipment like guns/helmets/hats and tunic groupings.I've been there done that too,traveling the show circuit with my lugers,
g41 and g43,and dewat Mp44. All lost to the lawyers now A.D.(after divorce).Sucubus ex-wives are far more dangerous than zinc pest! After that digression I'll touch on the OP's original question,basic beginer's display,as I'm starting over,here's my shot at it,a simple bookshelf with some shelves pulled up top,a battery op'd high power light unit installed for evening illumination,and I plan to have a couple glass door cut to install eventually.Someone suggested Ikea units,but I'm not sure of the cost... 3rpics 009.jpg